1958 Series 2 Help

[Tom591]

Good afternoon,

I am interested in a 1959 Series 2 that is for sale in Portugal (where I live).

I have spent a decent amount of time with newer Defenders, but never a Series. So I was wondering if anyone could have a glance at the listing and see if anything nasty jumps out at them.

https://www.standvirtual.com/anunci...-short-wheel-base-88-ID8Jr36m.html#ec44274789

My untrained eye can see that it has had a respray and rustproof coating (Waxoyl?), which could be hiding something. Although rust is not a big problem in this part of the world. 

Is the engine original (picture attached), or is it from a later model?

 

What has been painted over in front of the gear stick (picture attached)? Is it an old VIN plate?

 


The blurb roughly translates to:

09/1959
Diesel
2285cc
61cv
85,000km (unlikely to be true)


Sandblasted chassis with protective paint.
Exmoor Trim Canvas Hood imported from England.
New upholstery.
It is advisable to replace the side door rubbers.
Vehicle without accidents.
Functional vehicle, engine and gearbox.
Maintained by the same mechanic for several years.

Approved for seven (7) passengers.
Civil Documents (Booklet and Property Register).
Registration starting with HI -... ..
Vehicle was not military.
Owned the vehicle since 1996.
MOT valid until September 29 2017.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much.

[jordan_meakin]

Hi,

It actually looks pretty damn perfect to me. The series II is quite sort after and in my opinion, the best looking series. The engine isn't the original as the 2286cc (not 2285) diesel wasn't fitted until 1962 (if memory serves). However, that's not an unusual thing - many have this particularly if the original was a 2 litre diesel as they're pretty useless. The plate you mention isn't a VIN plate but a descriptor of the gears - you can get replacements. The VIN plate should be under the bonnet. Don't be worried about the Waxoyl, it is a good thing and the chassis looks decent although the pictures aren't comprehensive. The only way to check for rot is to use a blunt tool and apply pressure particularly on the cross members and outriggers. But, you will need to check with the owner as some can get sniffy if you start bashing around and knocking paint off.

Hope that helps.

[Tom591]

Thanks for the help.

 

Just took the car for a test drive.

The car ran very nicely. There is little rust apart from some patches on the rear crossmember, which have been painted over with black anti-rust paint. I imagine they might need some attention?

Took it for a good run (the owner was driving). He did not hold back, and at one point we were bombing along a dirt road at about 40kph! So it seems he is very confident in it.

In regards to Col's hill test recommendation, it went up a relatively steep hill from an almost standing start very comfortably (with four people on board).

My only real concern was quite a bit of exhaust smoke. I would not describe it as blue, but it was white with maybe a tinge of blue.

We met at a local car park, so the Land Rover had already had a run of at least 10 minutes, but when he started it up and left it idling while we looked at the engine bay there was a steady stream of white smoke (not very thick) from the exhaust.

It was quite hard to tell, but it was certainly not smoking badly during our test run. But I noticed it again when we had finished, and he was driving away.

The engine was installed in 1996. He found the car with a Datsun engine, and the original petrol was nowhere to be found.

I would make sure to get the car looked at by the local Landy man, but I wondered what your initial thoughts might be?

Cheers.

[jordan_meakin]

Both the petrols and diesels are smokey by modern standards even when healthy. You need to remember that this technology is just shy of 60 years old and it does not match modern expectations. Some smoke should be expected. If it's more than you'd hope for - well, that's classic car ownership. Either deal with it or don't by it. From what you describe, it seems pretty normal. If not, could be a multitude of sins which would need more investigation. Do check for contaminated coolant as this might suggest head gasket problems which can cause smoke/steam. The last diesel I had was pretty smokey but ran like a dream. The rust you speak of on the rear cross member - rust isn't much of an issue until it's rot. If it's only surface, just rub down, treat, repaint. If it's rot - deal with it. Again, welcome to classic car/series ownership. 

If you're happy with that price, the pictures and the evidence suggest it is good but the actual vehicle is up to you.

 

 

[jordan_meakin]

1 minute ago, jordan_meakin said:

Both the petrols and diesels are smokey by modern standards even when healthy. You need to remember that this technology is just shy of 60 years old and it does not match modern expectations. Some smoke should be expected. If it's more than you'd hope for - well, that's classic car ownership. Either deal with it or don't by it. From what you describe, it seems pretty normal. If not, could be a multitude of sins which would need more investigation. Do check for contaminated coolant as this might suggest head gasket problems which can cause smoke/steam. The last diesel I had was pretty smokey but ran like a dream. The rust you speak of on the rear cross member - rust isn't much of an issue until it's rot. If it's only surface, just rub down, treat, repaint. If it's rot - deal with it. Again, welcome to classic car/series ownership. 

If you're happy with that price, the pictures and the evidence suggest it is good but the actual vehicle is up to you.

 

 

Buy*

[secondjeremy]

The white smoke is unburnt fuel - so why isn't it burning?

It can be due to incorrect pump timing or a worn injection pump or injectors.  Low engine compression can also cause the problem.  Low compression is usually due to bore wear - and the engines tend to blow oil out everywhere so as the engine looks clean its unlikely to be the problem.

 

[Romahomepete]

These vehicles are too early to have a VIN.

It has a chassis number that should be stamped on the outside of the front dumbiron above the springhanger.  The same number should be stamped on a plate fastened to the bulkhead under the dash just in front of the red lever.

This plate wasnt moved to the front near the radiator until the Series 3.

We have a very similar vehicle that is the same age and it has had its engine replaced with a sililar engine.  We also have a 58 that started life as a petrol but gained a similar engine about 20 years ago.

 

Peter