andy _1 Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Hi guys I got a defender could do with new doors but there is no way I am paying £350 A DOOR , so series 3 doors it is I thought I would ask here because yous guys will know . I think I need the bottoms from paddocks and the glazed uppers as well but I keep reading about military tops ? What's the difference compared to what paddocks is selling or do I just buy it's about £50 odd for the bottoms and £74 for the uppers is that all I need or educated me. Many thanks andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Watching this with interest. Door bottom repairs would be about £60 for both sides (ish) but also a lot of faffing around. I know someone with a 300tdi and wolf tops with lift up handles and it looks great. No window winders or regulators to rattle about in there either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Military are alloy. Look at rocky mountain for aftermarket versions. Be sitting down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Gazzar said: Military are alloy. Look at rocky mountain for aftermarket versions. Be sitting down. These guys? http://rockymountainspares.co.uk/product/outback-door-tops/ From their home page it looks as though they're going out of business as well. Found these though: https://www.sp-4x4.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DEFCONV1&CartID=1 Edited January 30, 2020 by paime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Shame. Nice stuff. The steel frames door tops rot. I'd get them rust treated, zinc sprayed, epoxied and cavity waxed. Might get you an extra half hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy _1 Posted January 30, 2020 Author Share Posted January 30, 2020 So any series 3 doors will fit then. These tops yous say rust away , can you not galvanize them? £400 for alloy tops that's worse than defender doors. Brand new tops cant rust that quickly surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 In truth they take ten years to rot. Getting them dipped is an option, but it's trying to find a place that will do just two door tops. Then there's the anti burst locks.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 How bad are the old doors? Is it the skin, or the frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy _1 Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 The doors frames seem to have been welded it my first defender had a disco for 11years , so no experience with defenders plenty experience with car welding fabrication ect . The doors look mucked about with the dont close right ect ,there is some bubbling at the bottoms and I am going to paint the car full respray in the summer so sliding windows is ok for me . I can get the tops galvanized no problem my neighbor runs a fabrication business so he just add them in if I need anything I built galvanized. Lucky he moved in I know it £150 min up here unless you have a large enough thing to get galvanized. The chassis I made just cost £106 it was 206 kg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessejazza Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 As a former offshore paint coatings guy... my twopence worth! Galvanising is ok but one slight nick and the corrosion rate is then accelerated in that area. Good quality paint goes a long way - a decent synthetic will give many years service but preparation is important to say the least. Galv or red primer is excellent stuff. If you want a primer better than that then Epoxy primer from International Paints (or similar offshore coatings supplier) will not disappoint unless you try and remove it. Once cured only way to remove is by use of a grinder... it is that good. What is not worth using is hammerite/smoothrite as it chips and not oil, grease, petrol, or brake fluid resistant. Galvanising is not what it is cracked up to be. I need a new chassis for my LWB resto and if a non-galv one was available that is what I would go for with a coating of epoxy primer... it does not chip and degrade even in salt water (hence why it is used on offshore structures). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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