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Everything posted by Gazzar

  1. Sound clip in post one. I'm working up the options. If I find something obvious that's wrong, and not too deep, I'll fix it and do it back up. If it's deeper (bearings), then I've the debate of recon Turner short block, or some degree of DIY full or part rebuild. There isn't much in the cost between Turner and DIY, if the crank, cam and bores are bad, it's cheaper to outsource to Turners. I'll aim to get to it in a week's time.
  2. Yes, you are right. I'll take the cover off, explore my way in. Then head, then cam covers. See what I can see. But if all fails, best have a plan!
  3. It's louder near the water pump. I use a stethoscope, and it's quite good at locating noise. But oil is coming out the timing case, so that needs doing regardless. And, as I'm there....... Maybe full rebuild time? It's a higher mileage engine. How much difference is there in the cost of a short engine compared to a DIY rebuild, I wonder? Block, bearings, pistons and cam?
  4. I don't think it's the crank shaft bearings, it's something to do with the cam area. I'm thinking it could be a cam follower, or a push rod. The noise came from there when listening with the scope. I'll move the 109 out of the way, clear the workshop and then strip the head and timing off, needs doing anyway.
  5. Little end, then. Whatever. It means the 109 is off the road.
  6. I don't think it's big end. I hope it's not the con rod bearings. I'd rather not overhaul the engine this month! I'll poke around the cam and rockers a bit more. But it's shaping up like an engine rebuild... Ah, well, always wanted to do one!
  7. Valve clearances? I've just reset them, but I'm still open to something odd Inn that area. I didn't check for the valves caps when I did it. The noise is loudest near the cam belt tensioner, using the stethoscope. Could this be the cam shaft? Or a push rod doing something wrong? Further work tomorrow. I fear.
  8. I think I might dump a load of 2 stroke oil in it, and go for a burn. Once the new damper had been fitted. The old one has a fair number of cracks, so probably time to change anyway.
  9. So, it's either injection pump/injector, timing belt/tensioner, or an engine bearing. Joy.
  10. The knock is still there, with the damper removed. But, and this is strange, when I started the truck first, it wasn't as bad. I'm changing the damper anyway. As I've bought the parts. And it wasn't loose, the torque gun couldn't undo the bolt, it took the starter to unstick it.
  11. Yes, I could do that. Most are closed on Saturdays, which limits me a lot. I'll check my scrap first.
  12. I would prefer genuine, but not genuine prices. But probably worth it. I need to raid the scrap bin for an acme bit of studding, I think. Or just buy some? Then the nut becomes the issue. More thinking needed.
  13. My first green lane experience has demonstrated that the spring and chassis bushes are knackered. They are 8 years old and saw about 10,000 miles of use, but not genuine. So, what do I replace with? Do poly bushes last? I'm not after any changes in comfort, I just hate doing chassis bushes!
  14. Can you still access the under seat lockers with these seats?
  15. I'll start planning the job now. Thanks.
  16. Looks like the lightweight build will be postponed for a bit.... Thanks, I'll do some research on the damper and get shopping.
  17. With the engine off, and on a flat surface, chock the front wheels, jack up one rear wheel. Put in gear and see how much play you have in the wheel, by rotating it back and forward.
  18. I think the damper will be the first thing to try. What's involved in changing that? And can it wait until I do the timing belt, this winter?
  19. Cracked injectors, it just ran rougher, but with the knock.Took off fan belt, no difference. A fair degree of play in the water pump, but that's for another day. How would I test the damper? I might the the spare injectors done, and maybe the spare IP pump. Thanks, all. I'm green laning tomorrow, the wise of the club will help, I hope.
  20. Good afternoon, Please tell me this isn't main bearing time? My TDI has developed a very loud knock from the lower end of the engine. The stethoscope suggests that it's nearer the water pump, than the crankshaft. Disco timing chest, defender induction system. This sounds goes away once above tickover, gone under power. Oil change had no effect, but the oil was done August last year, so that shouldn't be an issue. It's a loud knock, mechanical, I've attached a .wav file, audio, but I don't know if it helps. Help? My recording 1.wav
  21. I've never tried it. I'm good at fiddly repairs, but I'd be reluctant to take that on. You'd need very good long needle nose pliers, patience, access, and probably long strong fingers.
  22. If it was on UK plates before, it should be very easy. Get insurance on the UK plate, get an MOT on the UK plate, order the form from the DVLA, and fill it in. Send off, and you should get a V5 quite quickly. I've reimported 2 cars from the EU, back in the day of local DVLA offices, and it was a 20 minute job at the desk, but it should be the same, just in the post.
  23. I totally understood that. And agree. But I reserve the right to ignore the outcome and call for a re-vote, because it's obvious that the people who voted against me didn't understand what they were voting for.
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