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part identification

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have tried to find info on the internet, and forums, but cant find anything.

i would like to know what this part is on the distributor pump on a landrover 2.5 na diesel.


it is the part in the black circel.

the outer nut is made of plastic, and does not sit very firm on the bolt.

hope you can help.


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Normally any plastic cover on a injection pump is a tamper proof item, to prevent users making any adjustments from the manufacturers standard settings. my Defender workshop manual doesn't mention what that item is for, I would leave it alone.

welcome to LR4x4 hope you find lots of useful info here.

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have found out that it is the latch valve. but i am unsurtain of the plastic nut at the end. it sits loose at on the bolt.

it may have been damaged during transportation of engine, as the paint had chipped off at this place, so i would like to know more about what the plastic nut actually do.



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that would be great!

i would also be interested in buying that valve/bolt/thingy. could buy hole pump, but postage to norway would kill me.

i have put the engine in my serie 3 land rover, there might be an article soon.



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Ok, I've been down my inventing things shed and had a look at my 2.5N/A injector pump. Same as yours, but I would hazard a guess that you have the tamper-proof cap in place as Ralph suggests. Mine is just flush, as in the first picture, but I would say that there was a bolt head or similar there originally, as this thing is definitely a fuel adjuster. Seeing as how you got my curiosity up, I thought I would take it apart and have a look and maybe a better idea of what it is exactly.

Before I set the spanners on it! :)


13mm spanner removes the first part, which seems to be just a housing to compress the first O-ring that's around the threaded shaft that's now exposed. The compression of this O-ring prevents the threaded shaft (which is steel), from turning. You would slacken the housing first before turning the shaft, and then tighten it to keep it still.


When you remove the O-ring, the shaft becomes noticeably loose, and will turn very easily. Damage to the O-ring indicates it is usually compressed.


Second part is removed with 15mm spanner, this is the threaded housing for the adjuster shaft. Screwing the shaft in compresses a spring that in turn presses on a small plunger that is an accurate machined fit in the final part.


22m spanner holds the final, inner part in. This is like a double banjo bolt, there are two holes, sealed from each other externally by two O-rings - holes are indicated by the ends of the welding rod.


The machined plunger that fits inside seems to control fluid flow between the two holes.

All stripped and in the sequence they are fitted in the Injector pump main body from left to right.


When the timing belt sprocket on the pump is turned in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise), fuel comes out of the small hole indicated by the welding rod. It would go into the top hole of the banjo, and then, depending on restriction caused by the plunger, exit out of the second hole which is the main rotor housing and is then supplied in sequence to each injector.


I had a look on the injector pump on catflap and although it's a TD engine, the arrangement is identical. There are traces of yellow paint, which in this country is usually so that a garage or similar can check to see if anyone has altered the factory settings.


My best guess would be that this is a fuel flow control to the injectors once the fuel has been pressurised in the main body of the pump. By turning the adjuster anti-clockwise would seem to increase flow to the injectors, and vic-versa. If the top of yours has snapped off Morten, I would say it's not a problem so long as the shaft hasn't been turned. There's no way I can see that there's a factory setting - I should imagine that you would need specialist equipment to set it up initially. You could 'play' with it though, as long as you remember how many turns and in what direction you turn it so that it can be returned to it's original position. Just make sure the 13mm outer nut is quite tight (it's fine thread, so be careful), you could also find something to cap it off if you think it's necessary - blob of glue or silicone, something like that.

I had best point out that the above information is my best guess based on what it all looks like it's doing.

The only thing I can say for sure is that it doesn't matter if the outer bit has snapped off, as long as the rest of the assembly is ok, and it looks like it is from your photo.

Les. :)

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