Anderzander Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 Is there any way to improve the low range bottom linkage ? Mine has all new parts - but still twists when you pull the lever back and push the linkage into the fulcrum. Tightening the screw in as far as it goes helps to tighten it up a little - but it looks like it would be much more positive with a properly clearanced bush in there, or a shouldered clevis pin … Any thoughts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citizen kane Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 I use an M8 shoulder bolt and a stack of wavy washers, still not brilliant but it stops the rattles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 42 minutes ago, Anderzander said: Is there any way to improve the low range bottom linkage ? Mine has all new parts - but still twists when you pull the lever back and push the linkage into the fulcrum. I'm a little uncertain what is going wrong, but just as an illustration for others I'll include some pictures which formed my 'learning experience'. The bottom pivot was completely encapsulated in a big ball of very sticky grease, but I don't know when that had been put on. When I removed the grease the bolt and fixed point were excessively worn, but fortunately the clevis (on the bottom of the lever) was not worn. Note the clevis has one thick plate and one thin plate. I understand this is a design feature to ensure the thin plate will easily distort as the pivot bolt is tightened, The thick plate needs to be thick to enable a rigid joint. Note the 'shoulder' under the head of the screw; this is where the thin side plate of the clevis sat, and shows the bolt was not loose in the clevis. The reduced diameter of the bolt, and the oval hole in the fixed pivot shows that the pivot bolt was not tightened enough to clamp the fixed pivot. Corrective action was to replace the fixed pivot (cheap enough not to merit any sort of repair), to replace the screw with a new bolt plus nyloc nut. I also included two plain flat washers, one under the bolt head and one under the nyloc nut. These were to ensure neither the bolt or nut turned as the lever was moved. I greased all surfaces EXCEPT for the outer faces of the flat washers, as I wanted high friction against the bolt head and the nut. I tightened the nut / bolt as much as I could with normal length spanners. This may seem too tight, considering it's a pivot, but I had in mind the lever is about 18" long, making it easy to overcome the friction, considering the moving surfaces are greased. The gearchange is 'deliberate', it doesn't prevent movement, but 'I'll admit it isn't a fingertip change. I also inserted a new spring on the ball joint (not shown in your diagram), putting loops of locking wire around the shaft and the curved ends of the spring to ensure it cannot fall out (a standard failing). I don't know how this compares to your installation, but it's all I can offer to help. I don't understand the twisting you are experiencing. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 Thanks David - lots of info there ! Is yours a S3 one ? The clevis arrangement is different to mine .. mine has this type of pin… a shouldered bolt looks a better arrangement. I’m out at the moment - but the clevis arrangement on mine has more equal thickness on the sides - one hole larger and threaded. When that pivot is pushed towards the fulcrum it flexes sideways - despite the parts being new. I’ll do some more measuring up - it must be a combination of the clevis being wider than the fulcrum - and the pin being smaller diameter than the fixed pivot’s hole. I can’t increase clamping force because the screw head on that pin is already flush with the outer face. This is one of those moments where I wish I had a lathe… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 The example I've shown is from a 1968 S2A. The pin you have shown is one I associate with the handbrake linkage, and the PTO linkage. Part 216421, shown on LRW, scroll down the page for multiple suppliers and pictures. At the bottom of that page there is a parts diagram, click on it to expand and see the associated clevis 279155, which you might recognise. Scroll down again and there is a link to somone selling them as a combined set, ebay item 321866115967. Looking at my parts list I see it shows 'alternative fixings', EITHER the screw you show OR the nut and bolt I show. Only one lever is shown, 576210 (now FRC6998). Again, scroll all the way down for a more modern parts diagram (only showing the bolt fastening). Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 I see that on the 2/2a now, thanks … On the Series 1 (which my lever is from) it only shows the ‘handbrake type’ clevis pin… On that they are on the handbrake, the low range lever, the 4wd lever, and the clutch rod 😊 The lever on the 80” is 219729. I’m not sure how the lever on your list remains the same for both types of fixing - on mine the holes are different diameter on each side of the clevis fork - so it would need a significantly shouldered bolt to work. Perhaps an easy way for me to do this would be either a bush in there or ask some one to turn a shoulder down into a normal clevis pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 I’ve took measurements - some of the NOS holes not being round will be a factor, but the main issue is that the diameter of the pin is a fair but smaller than the engine side hole in the clevis. I’ve put washers in and wound the pin all the way in, stopping movement along the pin - and that’s helped a lot. It still looks like this though: https://youtube.com/shorts/-iCr2kTqb2A?feature=share I think really sorting this will involve putting it on a bench with a pillar drill and likely turning something up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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