Divster Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Can somebody please put up an EPC page for the D2 cooling system. I'm specifically interested in the area showing the thermostat housing. Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 I can't, but are looking for Td5 or V8 for somebody that can? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 I can't, but are looking for Td5 or V8 for somebody that can? Oops, TD5 please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBrown Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Sorry, I can't work out how to attach files/ pictures from the RAVE CD. What problems are you having as I've just replaced the thermostat on my 99MY TD5. Car would warm up fine but heater output would cool down when car idling and warm up again when revved above 1250 rpm. New thermostat seems to have cured it, but keeping a close checkon it. Graeme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Think the only way is to do a screen grab of the page, I have tried and failed to export things from RAVE in the past... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted February 12, 2007 Author Share Posted February 12, 2007 Sorry, I can't work out how to attach files/ pictures from the RAVE CD. What problems are you having as I've just replaced the thermostat on my 99MY TD5. Car would warm up fine but heater output would cool down when car idling and warm up again when revved above 1250 rpm. New thermostat seems to have cured it, but keeping a close checkon it.Graeme. Greame, I've got similar symptoms but I'm unsure whether I've got a partial blockage of the heater matrix. I'm going to replace the thermostat and flush the matrix (possibly remove and examine the water pump too) to see if that cures it. From the WSM I note that the flow to the matrix is controlled by a valve from within the thermostat housing. I was unsure whether this valve was a seperate part to the thermostat/ housing. Part numbers are always handy to have when visiting my local supplier. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted February 13, 2007 Author Share Posted February 13, 2007 Anyone??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 This is a screen-grab of the epc, let me know what parts you require the number of: Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted February 14, 2007 Author Share Posted February 14, 2007 This is a screen-grab of the epc, let me know what parts you require the number of:Tony Ah ha, that clarifies things a bit. Just the part number for the therostat (no.7) please. Thanks alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Ah ha, that clarifies things a bit. Just the part number for the therostat (no.7) please. Thanks alot Erm, the thermostat is no. 17: up to VIN 5A476242 = PEM100990K, after VIN 5A476243 = PEL500110 No.7 is a Rail-Coolant = PFV100120 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted February 14, 2007 Author Share Posted February 14, 2007 Erm, the thermostat is no. 17: up to VIN 5A476242 = PEM100990K, after VIN 5A476243 = PEL500110 No.7 is a Rail-Coolant = PFV100120 Brilliant, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 Right then, I've changed the thermostat (which was a nightmare becuase I hadn't got a tool to remove the viscous fan) and I've still got heater problems. I removed the pipes going to and from the heater matrix yesterday to ensure that there was a flow of coolant through the matrix with the engine running. There was only a small trickle going through to start with, but as soon as I released the expansion tank cap slightly I got a good flow. My temporary fix is that I'm now running around with the expansion tank cap not fully tight. I'm getting some warmth through the heater, but there is a significant improvement when revved over 1800. Has anyone got any thoughts?? Water pump on its way out perhaps??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 Right then, I've changed the thermostat (which was a nightmare becuase I hadn't got a tool to remove the viscous fan) and I've still got heater problems.I removed the pipes going to and from the heater matrix yesterday to ensure that there was a flow of coolant through the matrix with the engine running. There was only a small trickle going through to start with, but as soon as I released the expansion tank cap slightly I got a good flow. My temporary fix is that I'm now running around with the expansion tank cap not fully tight. I'm getting some warmth through the heater, but there is a significant improvement when revved over 1800. Has anyone got any thoughts?? Water pump on its way out perhaps??? Just check the heater pipes don't through an oil/water cooler first (usually around the oil filter assembly). (think it's the thing just above right-hand no.1 in the EPC piccy above) Had a couple of these on other motors that have been blocked causing poor flow into heater matrix. But yes, waterpump would be possibility Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBrown Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 Dave, As I said in my last post, heater working fine after changing thermostat but have other symptoms now!! I get alot of pressure in the top radiator hose and a low level in my coolant expansion tank. When I release the cap the water level comes back up, but lower than it started. I put a small plastic bottle on the expansion tank overflow and have been catching water. So far the pattern seems to be, I catch water after a motorway journey of 65+mph, but not when running around town. The top hose is pressurised every time!! I am tending towards the first signs of headgasket failure although there is no water in oil or vics versa and no steam/ coolant in the exhaust. Anyone any thoughts?? Graeme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted March 1, 2007 Author Share Posted March 1, 2007 Dave,As I said in my last post, heater working fine after changing thermostat but have other symptoms now!! I get alot of pressure in the top radiator hose and a low level in my coolant expansion tank. When I release the cap the water level comes back up, but lower than it started. I put a small plastic bottle on the expansion tank overflow and have been catching water. So far the pattern seems to be, I catch water after a motorway journey of 65+mph, but not when running around town. The top hose is pressurised every time!! I am tending towards the first signs of headgasket failure although there is no water in oil or vics versa and no steam/ coolant in the exhaust. Anyone any thoughts?? Graeme. Graeme, I had similar symptoms until I was towing a heavy trailer up a steep hill. The temp guage needle shot up into the red, the car stutterred and then the temp went back to normal. The water usage got worse and I decided to get the head gasket done. Unfortunately for me, when the head was pressure tested, cracks were found in the diesel galleries (£££££££ ) The problems with the heater matix have occured since the head was done so I'm confident there's no head gasket issue now. (Plus my header tank is now not pressurising and water usage is minimal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBrown Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 Dave It still sounds like the thermostat because there is a spring loaded bypass valve in the housing that's closed below 1500rpm to direct the coolant through the heater matrix only to promote faster warm up. When I changed my thermostat a couple of weeks ago it cured my heater problems. I'm going to gather the parts for the head gasket and do it asap. Did you do yours or was it a garage and what was the costs if you don't mind me asking?? Graeme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted March 1, 2007 Author Share Posted March 1, 2007 DaveIt still sounds like the thermostat because there is a spring loaded bypass valve in the housing that's closed below 1500rpm to direct the coolant through the heater matrix only to promote faster warm up. When I changed my thermostat a couple of weeks ago it cured my heater problems. I'm going to gather the parts for the head gasket and do it asap. Did you do yours or was it a garage and what was the costs if you don't mind me asking?? Graeme. I'm considering changing the thermostat again, but I'll wait until Ive checked the rest of the hoses for blockages and I've got a spanner for the viscous fan. It's a real pain in the arse to do with the fan on. I had to put it into a local specialist as the workshop is taken up with the hybrid I'm building at the mo. The costs were going to be around £600 but with a second hand head, machining time and 2 lots of pressure testing it was over twice that.......ouch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBrown Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 I'm considering changing the thermostat again, but I'll wait until Ive checked the rest of the hoses for blockages and I've got a spanner for the viscous fan. It's a real pain in the arse to do with the fan on.I had to put it into a local specialist as the workshop is taken up with the hybrid I'm building at the mo. The costs were going to be around £600 but with a second hand head, machining time and 2 lots of pressure testing it was over twice that.......ouch It's a 36mm spanner but I used the old method of cold chisel and hammer. It comes off anti-clock wise from front of engine. Just a light tap was required. Where abouts are you and what specialist did you use? I'm in Falkirk, Central Scotland Graeme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted March 1, 2007 Author Share Posted March 1, 2007 It's a 36mm spanner but I used the old method of cold chisel and hammer. It comes off anti-clock wise from front of engine. Just a light tap was required.Where abouts are you and what specialist did you use? I'm in Falkirk, Central Scotland Graeme I'm located near Matlock, Derbyshire. A bit of a trip from you!!! I used DLS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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