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Rear Tub in a 110


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This is a job that I've been wanting to do for ages. Finally got most of it done this weekend.

Basic requirements were having somewhere out of sight to store my tools, keep the noise down and stop everything sliding about the place. I also wanted a large area on top for transporting stuff, and kipping in occasionally. (Tested Friday night outside the bar, works a treat :D )

I considered a drawer of some sort, but decided that something simple would suit me better. A drawer just seemed like too much hassle; I'm a lazy dog.

Details are here so that anyone considering something similar might get some inspiration and improve on it!

A shelf across, sitting on the wheel boxes, would have been too low, so I ran 2 4"x2" battens longways, bolted through the wheel boxes.

A sheet of 12mm ply on top, split equally crossways, with 5 hinges so that the rear piece can be lifted. The front piece is screwed down to the battens.

I added a vertical 'headboard' to stop stuff sliding under the rear seats, and a vertical divider, 1' wide, to hold smaller stuff.

The rear piece can be lifted and placed on a stay, or folded completely to sit on the forward sheet. When down, it sits not completely flat, but on 2 'bump-stops'. This is because the carpet on the lower side strains the hinges when down completely.

Some anthracite industrial carpet stuck down. I ran out of carpet, but the pics as they are, show the construction better.

The pieces on the tub are/will be loose to allow cleaning/drying.

Some pics:

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when folded forward, the top sheet sits on 2" spacers, to try and save the hinges.

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Full of all my junk. Straps/shackles etc. sit on the wheel boxes behind the batten.

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Land Rover Special tools #1 and #2 were not required for this job. A first!

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Some costs:

4x2 baton - 7e

carpet - 20e

Spray-on impact adhesive - 30e from my local ripoff superstore.

Circular saw(!) - 30 quid B&Q cheap and cheerful.

Screws, nut & bolts 10e

Ply sheets - free (Thanks Da!)

Lessons learned, (given I've no experience in such matters):

Ribbed industrial carpet makes it a breeze to cut in a straight line. Just follow the rip with the stanley blade.

Spray-on adhesive is expensive and doesn't do too far. I used 2 cans so far. It is very easy to apply though.

You only get one chance to stick it down, so 2 people is a must. It is preferable for them both not to be hung over which unfortunately was not the case for either party, especially given one had slept in the truck the previous night :)

B&Qs cheepy 'redeye' laser saw was grand for the job, though the laser is a bit difficult to see in the sun.

The 30mm x15mm flush hinges were chosen because the screws are a perfect length for the 12mm ply. I hadn't really foreseen that having carpet on both sides of the folding sheet would strain them so much. In retrospect they are not really quite up to the abuse. The stay also strains the nearest hinge.

Overall, I'm happy with the result, or will be once I finish carpeting the whole lot.

Thanks to the Da for design consultation and for hungover carpet application and em, supervision :lol: , of the job.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I was thinking of doing something except finishing it in chequor plate. Your pics have really helped me see it.

Have finished carpeting it, but now that it's all black it doesn't photograph so well!!

I thought about chequer plate, but I really wanted to keep the noise down. The carpet should be reasonably hard wearing and had really quietened things a lot. :)

Let me know if you need more photos/measurements etc.

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Have finished carpeting it, but now that it's all black it doesn't photograph so well!!

I thought about chequer plate, but I really wanted to keep the noise down. The carpet should be reasonably hard wearing and had really quietened things a lot. :)

Let me know if you need more photos/measurements etc.

Excellent job fella, along with the repaint this has become one of my to do jobs over summer. Cheers for the inspiration!

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