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rear pinion angle


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want to correct my rear pinion angle, on my 90, got 2" suspension + d4x4 radius arms, they are about a cm longer so pinion is pointing too far down, giving a unhealthy angle for the rear prop.

found this http://www.qtservices.co.uk/product.asp?id=2984, would solve my problem, not sure about the rose joint though. wouldn't hurt since the ball joint would need replacement anyhow.

anyy suggestions?

cheers

spec

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want to correct my rear pinion angle, on my 90, got 2" suspension + d4x4 radius arms, they are about a cm longer so pinion is pointing too far down, giving a unhealthy angle for the rear prop.

found this http://www.qtservices.co.uk/product.asp?id=2984, would solve my problem, not sure about the rose joint though. wouldn't hurt since the ball joint would need replacement anyhow.

anyy suggestions?

cheers

spec

Not sure you would gain what you want from that part as I think it is made to stop binding of a-frame joint not change pinion angle.

Peter

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well since you can adjust the length of the joint, i would think you coul push the top of the axle backwards?

Couldn't you just fit the 3bolt trailing arm bushings to the front of the chassis bracket to tilt the pinion up ? That is what I did to a friends 110 when the pinion angle of the Volvo portal axles we fitted wasn't quite there.

Bill.

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Bill

I didnt know the 3 bolt bush wasnt supposed to go on the front of the bracket, I've been fitting them like this to my own, some mates cars and a lots of vehicles at work

Ooops :huh:

Lewis

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Bill

I didnt know the 3 bolt bush wasnt supposed to go on the front of the bracket, I've been fitting them like this to my own, some mates cars and a lots of vehicles at work

Ooops :huh:

Lewis

I wouldn't worry about doing a mass recall Lewis, if no one has complained about driveline vibrations. :)

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well since you can adjust the length of the joint, i would think you coul push the top of the axle backwards?

Not only that, but de balljoint is mounted a fair bit lower compared to the standard item, wich has the joint more or less inline with the A-frame.

I myself took a different approach and welded a higher bracket to the axle, wich allows you to adjust the pinion angle and slightly changes the path the tires follow when flexing. In my case this gave just enough clearance for the 37x13 Mickey Thompsons, without it they would rub the springmounts on full compression.

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Couldn't you just fit the 3bolt trailing arm bushings to the front of the chassis bracket to tilt the pinion up ? That is what I did to a friends 110 when the pinion angle of the Volvo portal axles we fitted wasn't quite there.

Bill.

sounds like an excellent idea, any pics?

cheers

spec

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looked underneath the truck yesterday. do you mean the two brackets were the a bar is mounted to the chassis? i suppose you would just add the triangular shaped metal bit of the trailing arm bush underneath the braket in order to increase the distance of the braket to chassis, make the aframe straighter and therefore push the top of the axle back?

cheers

spec

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looked underneath the truck yesterday. do you mean the two brackets were the a bar is mounted to the chassis? i suppose you would just add the triangular shaped metal bit of the trailing arm bush underneath the braket in order to increase the distance of the braket to chassis, make the aframe straighter and therefore push the top of the axle back?

cheers

spec

I think if you just moved the bush to the front of the chassis bracket it would pull the bottom of the axle forward about 1/2'' which may tilt the diff up just eough to compensate for your 2'' lift. If you need more just add shaped shim washers between the triangular shaped metal bit and the chassis bracket. You may then have to open up the top and bottom of the big hole in the chassis bracket to permit the bushing to swing up and down with articulation. Sorry, I didn't take pics of the rear end.

Bill.

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