Shackleton Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 Fellas, I'm usually over in the other sections but need your help. I'm after a Hybrid with a Td5 in. Trouble is there are no details about the engine. Judging by the G/box and it's short stick it's all out of a Disco but is seemingly running a Defender ECU. I'll be looking to get it remapped sometime soon but don't know how to tell how old the engine is and also how old the ECU is - i.e. pre/post '02 and mappable or not. Is there any way, engine numbers, serial numbers on the ECU? Also anything you can tell me about checking a Td5 over, as in buying guide would help a lot also as I'm new to the engine. I don't wanna buy a turkey. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 Post up the part number on the ECU it will most likely be MSBxxxxxx or NNNxxxxxx that is a good place to start. The mappable post 02 ones are all NNN part number AFAIK but if you post it up I will check it at work and see what age it was fitted to. Though if it is a hybrid it could be a mix and match job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSG Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 I remember hearing that the ECU had to be matched to the engine which had caused problems for transplants - but if this one is running ok then it shouldn't be a problem. I could be talking rubbish though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted June 7, 2007 Author Share Posted June 7, 2007 No you're right, something about the ECU needing to be given the values of each EUI. I'll post up the S/N as soon as I get a chance. Thanks guys. Even the steer on the NNN or MSB is a great help. If this is originally a Disco lump but being run by a Defender ECU then it's running in 122bhp form right? The lumps were identical and the higher bhp value of the Disco was achieved through ECU mapping - am I right? Also lets say the Defender ECU was never programed with the original values of the Disco's injectors, am I screwed - as in is there any way of sorting it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 You can reprogramme any ECU to any engine as long as it is the right sort for the age i.e. pre 02 or 02 onwards. You do need a Testbook though and you need to take the rocker cover off to get the injector grades off the injectors. The only thing is that some twiddly functions don't work - I put an early Defender ECU in a Discovery for diagnostic purposes a few weeks ago and the Discovery rev counter didn't work, for one example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted June 9, 2007 Author Share Posted June 9, 2007 So the engine turns out to be an early type, EU2 or whatever and the ECU starts MSBxxxx. Good news is it runs like a dream, really smooth and responsive. BUT ... I think it ran out of fuel while I was loading it onto a transporter. Well it cut out, so I started it again but it just cut out again, and again and again so I tried both 'official' and non official methods of purging air locks etc after loss of fuel (found here http://www.web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=td5kb ) but nothing. When I turn the key I hear the fuel pump spin up and unlike it's petrol cousins it keeps going for ages. The guy said it would stop if it could build fuel pressure but I cross referenced with my pals Defender and his stays on for ages too. Anyway it was also suggested that I disconnect the fuel return pipe from the fuel cooler to idenitfy that the fuel was in fact getting all the ways around the system - and it was. But while cross referencing with my pals Defender I noticed that my fuel cooler has a wet hissing sound coming from inside it like air half blowing through liquid - know what I mean - and the Defender doesn't? Any ideas? I'm more then a little concerned. I've just done a 700 mile round trip to buy this thing and it ran so beautifully on the test, and from cold. I'll start pulling my hair out if this is the beginning of a litany of woes touch wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Should stay on for about 30 sec. The coolers sometimes make the bubbly noise on vehicles that work fine, I don't know what causes it and always worked on the principle that if it wasn't broke I would leave it the hell alone! Try giving the battery a good charge or tow starting it - sometimes if the battery is low (and there can be a defect in the starter motor that causes the same problem) the things will crank but the voltage at the ECU is too low and it will just crank for ever until the battery goes flat and won't fire. A quick tow start usually shows up the problem and it would then start immediately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted June 11, 2007 Author Share Posted June 11, 2007 OK cool, I do have to get a decent charge/battery into it to rule that out but it's not that it just won't start, it starts long enough to settle into an idle and then cuts out. Very uniformly and after about 4 seconds? It has a "Sigma" branded alarm / immobiliser which shows an LED on the dash, the car will start provided the LED is lit. I'm assuming that it wouldn't catch at all if the immobiliser was active. I'm also thinking that maybe it got a jolt while bouncing around on the trailer and maybe the cut off switch has activated although I didn't notice it when looking around the engine bay, can they be removed from the loom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porny Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 OK cool, I do have to get a decent charge/battery into it to rule that out but it's not that it just won't start, it starts long enough to settle into an idle and then cuts out. Very uniformly and after about 4 seconds?It has a "Sigma" branded alarm / immobiliser which shows an LED on the dash, the car will start provided the LED is lit. I'm assuming that it wouldn't catch at all if the immobiliser was active. I'm also thinking that maybe it got a jolt while bouncing around on the trailer and maybe the cut off switch has activated although I didn't notice it when looking around the engine bay, can they be removed from the loom? Just realised I haven't replied to your email..... If you let me know the full number off the ECU (MSB*****) I can tell you if it thinks it's a Defender or a Disco. If it's cutting out after a few seconds it might be the standard immobilser that's killing it. Have you had a proper look around yet?? - I'd imagine that 'somewhere' there is a 10AS unit (a green box about 5"x3" with two multi plugs) rather than using the Disco BCU. However, if you wanted it is possible to get rid of the 10AS unit (or the BCU) completely Odd that someone would bother fitting an addtional immobiliser when there should be one fitted (but maybe not activated) anyway. There should be a fuel cut off switch in the engine bay - usually on the bulkhead. Even it's a MSB ECU it's still remappable... the only difference is that its not reflashable Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted June 12, 2007 Author Share Posted June 12, 2007 Fella I decided you were on holdiay or something better late then never No I haven't seen any units up close yet but I literally haven't time to give the car the once over. It genuinely ran so well from cold (and we both were in such a rush) that I just said 'yep thats the one' handed over the dough and got back on the road. I don't remember seeng the fuel cut off in the engine bay, and I'd recognise it straight away - they're the same ones rover used on the las classic minis. I'll gather all relevant info and maybe you could scratch your head next week for me? I'm leaning towards immobiliser alright, and I'd say it was on the car in the first place and they kept it. Its a horrible system with a touchpad on the windscreen presumably to enter a code manually if necessary. I gots no codes though. The guy lived down a very uneven country road and within a minute of me settoff the alarm had been activated. I may in my haste have done some stupid sequence of pressing the fob and perminently immobilised the car. George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share Posted June 18, 2007 Had time for a mquick nosey this weekend. So yes there is the green box with the two multiplugs sitting on top of the ECU under the drivers seat. I also found some leads there, one with a proprietary connection and a small earth strap - not connected. They're quite long so I'm assuming the proprietary one is the dock for the computer? Would this earth strap stop her from running? It really is a nice job, everything has been done as it should. It's also been around a while. The rad says 'Defender MY99' and is as tarnished/dirty as any other aluminium around the engine so I've no reason to believe it's not a good indicator. Also the ECU and 10AS have a fair layer of dust and sweet wrappers over them. Plus she was taxed at least until christmas - you guys can transfer tax right, so a later disk may even have been taken off? I think the thing to do now is try strip out the non factory alarm and see how that goes. Thanks for the input fellas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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