tedsmart Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 hi does anyone know if the indicator stalk is adjustable as it keeps flicking off when indicating, other than that is it a total new unit? is the part number for a Defender 110 300Tdi STC439G? Thanks Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 hi does anyone know if the indicator stalk is adjustable as it keeps flicking off when indicating, other than that is it a total new unit? is the part number for a Defender 110 300Tdi STC439G?Thanks Ted STC439 is correct if your chassis number is within this range From (V) HA 455946 To (V) VA 104805 maybe the cancelling ring on the back of the steering wheel has moved round & not sitting equally to cancel the indicators when the turn is complete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 It could be that the column is not in the correct position, it isn't just a case of moving the wheel as then you would find the wheel is not straight when driving in a straight line. I am guessing that the tracking has been adjusted or that some work has been done to the steering in the past? Anyway, this is very easy to recify and should only take a few minutes. Remove the wheel and you will see there is a bracket on the colum that catches on the stalk mechanism when the column is turned, you will probably find that with the wheels pointing straight forward this is off centre (could be by quite a bit). Adjust the front steering tube (the one between the drop-arm and the front of the axle) by slackening the lock-nuts (no need to remove the TRE's) and then turning the tube until the bracket on the column is in the centre, then re-tighten the lock-nuts. Now you can refit the steering wheel in the central position and you should find that the self canceling is correct again. If when driving you find the steering-wheel isn't quite straight (the wheels may not have been completely straight when adjusting the tube) just remove the steering-wheel and move it one tooth or so in the required direction, this small adjustment will not cause any problems with the self cancelling and there is no need to adjust the tube again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted October 15, 2007 Author Share Posted October 15, 2007 STC439 is correct if your chassis number is within this range From (V) HA 455946 To (V) VA 104805maybe the cancelling ring on the back of the steering wheel has moved round & not sitting equally to cancel the indicators when the turn is complete thankyou, Its more a case of it won't stay on when driving in a straight line! it keeps just flicking off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 Its more a case of it won't stay on when driving in a straight line! it keeps just flicking off? Is the rubber boot/gromit on the stalk pushed back towards the steering column? If not, it can cause the switch to cancel unnecessarily. Check for detritus round the collar. Is the switch definitely new ? On older switches, the arms that contact the collar can harden with age and cancel when steering the same way as indicating, as well as cancelling normally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 "Its more a case of it won't stay on when driving in a straight line! it keeps just flicking off?" Maybe the rubber shroud is pulling on the stalk but I believe the bracket on the column may be in the wrong position as I described in my earlier post. Mine was doing the same thing (wouldn't stay on in one direction and wouldn't turn off in the other) and I found the column needed to be centralised as I have described. Easy to do and shouldn't take too long at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Old switches tend to do this. There is no fix apart from fitting a new one. They are quite cheap if you get from a non-LR place. The electrical connections are different from the old to new ones, no change otherwise. We used to always fit the old type as they were much cheaper, though you have to solder all the connections which is a pain. Nowadays the prices are about the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 Old switches tend to do this. There is no fix apart from fitting a new one. They are quite cheap if you get from a non-LR place. The electrical connections are different from the old to new ones, no change otherwise. We used to always fit the old type as they were much cheaper, though you have to solder all the connections which is a pain. Nowadays the prices are about the same. Yes I was thinking that it was warn, my LR stealer wants 150 dollars for a new one, I don't mind paying a bit more but I think thats taking the p++ cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Geez, I bought a late model one this morning for R360, I reckon that is about 90 AU$? Not from a stealer, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 Geez, I bought a late model one this morning for R360, I reckon that is about 90 AU$?Not from a stealer, of course. Yeah I know, this isn't a main dealer as well its just the local independant! I need a vaccum pump for the brakes and they wanted 450 AUD, I ended up sending to the UK for one that is costing me 290AUD postage included. I just can't work it out!!! I have to wait seven to ten days for it though! You can't have everything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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