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rear door needs adjusting...


freeagent
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The rear door on my 1996 Disco needs adjusting, it 'thumps' whenever I hit a pothole or bump in the road, it sounds like it isn't shut properly...

I think the closing mechanism needs moving 'up and in'... has anyone else had these problems? what did you do to solve it?

many thanks,

Matt.

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I think the weight of the spare on the door contributes to the door dropping on the hinges over time. This also seems to contribute to reduced effectiveness of the top seal leading to water ingress to the boot area. I started at the hinge end anyway on mine by slackening the top hinge bolts (on the body side) and then slackening off all bar one of the lower hinge bolts. I then opened the door to 90 degrees and lifted the end of it with a hi-lift (and a bit of wood). Once the wieght is on the jack it may be necessary to slacken the one bottom bolt just a little. You should see the door rotate about that bolt though. When it has moved up a bit then tighten a top and bottom bolt and see how it fits. When happy tighten them all. You may, at this stage, want to slacken off the strike plate and the anti rattle thing on the closure side. When happy with the door fit then get the strike plate in the right position so it is a tight fit against the door seal before the second click. Finally set the anti-rattle thingy (sort of triangular doobry) so that it just lifts the door a fraction as it shuts. This will take a fair bit of trial and error but its worth it in the end.

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As above, mine does it cos weaklings can't close the door properly,I farted around for ages with it and it's not realy any better but when it's closed properly it's OK.Check the top edge of that "V thingy" for wear!

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When I lived in Darwin I asked the local LR dealer how much it would cost to adjust my door. He quoted me about 1/2 hour so I booked it in. Apparantly it took the mechanic about 3 hours. Still only charged for the 1/2 hour though, which I thought was a bargain.

Ivan

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I think the weight of the spare on the door contributes to the door dropping on the hinges over time. This also seems to contribute to reduced effectiveness of the top seal leading to water ingress to the boot area. I started at the hinge end anyway on mine by slackening the top hinge bolts (on the body side) and then slackening off all bar one of the lower hinge bolts. I then opened the door to 90 degrees and lifted the end of it with a hi-lift (and a bit of wood). Once the wieght is on the jack it may be necessary to slacken the one bottom bolt just a little. You should see the door rotate about that bolt though. When it has moved up a bit then tighten a top and bottom bolt and see how it fits. When happy tighten them all. You may, at this stage, want to slacken off the strike plate and the anti rattle thing on the closure side. When happy with the door fit then get the strike plate in the right position so it is a tight fit against the door seal before the second click. Finally set the anti-rattle thingy (sort of triangular doobry) so that it just lifts the door a fraction as it shuts. This will take a fair bit of trial and error but its worth it in the end.

I experience the same thumping of my 300TDi's rear door, and it is at it's worst when driving on corrigated dirt roads. With this I have dust ingress at the back as well. Thanks for the advice, I am going to tackle the rear door this weekend. I noted that my Discovery's rear door has actually sagged to the point where the bottom left corner is bent outwards, as it continiously strikes the door reveal. The door also requires a hefty shove to close properly.

This brings a question to my mind. I saw a phtograph of a Discovery, with two spare wheels mounted on the same doorbracket. What are the limits of door loading on the rear door hinges?

Regards

Thys

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