bigblue110 Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 introducing... me iv been meaning to write this for ages so thought id take advantage of having the day off to do so. first off, good forum people!! full of loadsa handy hints n tips. iv currently got an early 110 into which iv already retrofitted a 300 and all its associated bits n bobs, just about to finish off the disk brake conversion on the salisbury axle salisbury disk conversion, btw big shout out to diesal jim for putting up wit my shorly annoying questions!! been a great help! iv also got a 3.9 se RR sat on the drive awaiting a new rear crossmember and rear floor, or i might possbly put an angle grinder to the whole back end and create myself a toy, yet to decide but that's next years project anywhoo. ill try get piccies up at some point give you all a giggle at the RR back end- i really dont know how the tail gate is still attached!! anyway back to the point of this topic im considering putting diff locks/slippy diffs on the 110 but dont as yet know which way to go, arbs or detroit/true trac/ something else one of you guys suggest?? weekend greenlaning and pay play days will be a go'er when 110 is back on road, but nothingreally extreme at the mo. i also carry a fair bit of weight when working on the farm and reliablity is a must as she will be my dayly hack to and from work. id like to know what experiences you lot have had running different setups, what works and what doesnt, wether i should go for a 24spline conversion at the same time-is it needed or is there no point?? iv been reading through this web site its given me a good idea as to what is available but still no clues as to which way to go. any suggestions welcome as iv said im only considering at this point in time as money really is tight, im in the final year of an apprenticeship with mod fixing tanks, trucks, landies, basically anything that those wonderfull squadies put their hands to. money will be much better next year! at some point ill try to also put some picks up showing the state of the landies we get in tis quite funny really. cheers. andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 I run a 86 110 csw 3.9 efi its got maxidrive difflocks front and rear, been in there 19 yrs now , never had to touch em, and its worked hard here and in OZ e.g towed 54 tons , 1250Km off road recovery etc. But they aint cheap to buy, but you get all the special halfshafts, cvs etc. dont bother with lim slips, s they arnt long lived without maintenance if used hard. ARB in the back and then if you find you need it get one in the front later, although the front one is a very limited use , as you cant steer when its engaged, but it will get you out backwards if you havent got a winch to risk trying going forwards. so its a bit of an insurance policy really. HTSH JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Welcome to the Forum Andy. Unfortunately there are about eleventy billion answers to your question and you will get all of them from members on here! For what it is worth, my 2p: I think a manually operated locking diff is the way to go. Having watched a vehicle this weekend with truetracks (limited slip / torque biasing) winching through a very muddy section with only one wheeel on each axle driving , the abilty to fully lock the diff is not to be under estimated. Side slopes with locked rear diff can be very interesting don't know how affected limited slips are by these but with a manually locking diff you can be sure it is switched off.... If you are not looking at big tyres then the salisbury rear will be fine IMHO. No need to upgrade shafts. If you find you break them, then upgrade then. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Every time this subject comes up I bang the drum about differentiating limited-slip diffs from torque-biasing diffs. I’ve got a TruTrac torque biasing diff in the rear and think it’s very good – it puts torque to the wheel with the most grip, so on sideslopes it drives the lower wheel (turning you uphill), in roundabouts it will drive the rear left hardest (pushing you round the corner), in a crossaxle it puts drive to the wheel with most weight on it. You couldn’t do that with a locker. However, if one wheel is completely clear of the ground, it can’t bias any torque across to the wheel that’s on the floor so you have no drive. Rather than seeing it as a locker, look at it as an OpenDiff+ and you’ll understand what its doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblue110 Posted November 13, 2007 Author Share Posted November 13, 2007 cheers all where would be the best place to start looking for prices for arb's and all the other bits, or do they come as job lot with compressor, tank etc. there much work involved in fitting them to the salisbury? on the subject of salisburys is there a #1 in the way of diff guards for them?? had one of the thin rap around crown wheel covers and it lasted all of about three trips out before a rock pierced the back plate and a coke can and some handy silcone work was needed to get me home. andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Salisbury diffs are supposedly a pig to remove as you have to stretch the axle casing. I would be tempted to pay the likes of Ashcrofts or Devon 4x4 to fit it unless you know what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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