madcanuck Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Hello All, Does anybody know off the top of their heads what size socket is used for the large Radius arm nut? (It's the one facing forward on the rear arm and the rear facing on the front) Thanks, Tracy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 If it's metric it's 30mm. I can't recall what size the imperial ones are. 110 should be metric though, think it was only early RRC that had imperial ones, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 If it's metric it's 30mm. I can't recall what size the imperial ones are. 110 should be metric though, think it was only early RRC that had imperial ones, Yep, it's 30mm. Just had mine off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcanuck Posted November 28, 2007 Author Share Posted November 28, 2007 Yep, it's 30mm. Just had mine off. Thanks for the info, will go buy one! T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Don't forget the 3ft breaker bar to undo it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Don't forget the 3ft breaker bar to undo it! They're usually ok to slacken off until you get to the end of the rusty threaded portion - then the swearing begins. 1. Slacken 2. get stuck 3. swear 4. tighten 5. apply WD-40 6. repeat 1-5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101nut Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 They're usually ok to slacken off until you get to the end of the rusty threaded portion - then the swearing begins.1. Slacken 2. get stuck 3. swear 4. tighten 5. apply WD-40 6. repeat 1-5 1. Use wire brush vigourously on exposed thread (as much as can be reached) to remove rust and sh*t 2. Apply favourite dismantling lubricant (Plus Gas) from an aerosol to make sure it doesn't run down your arm 3. Remove relatively easily ... with aforementioned 3ft breaker bar ... usually It helps to fit aftermarket bushes as they are so carp the threads don't have time to corrode between changes AndyG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcanuck Posted November 29, 2007 Author Share Posted November 29, 2007 1. Use wire brush vigourously on exposed thread (as much as can be reached) to remove rust and sh*t2. Apply favourite dismantling lubricant (Plus Gas) from an aerosol to make sure it doesn't run down your arm 3. Remove relatively easily ... with aforementioned 3ft breaker bar ... usually It helps to fit aftermarket bushes as they are so carp the threads don't have time to corrode between changes AndyG Thanks For all the tips everyone, they came off without any swearing, I kept cleaning and spraying penetrant as I was dismantling everything else, and I did have the big breaker bar. I will be assembling everything with tectyl, its an aviation corrosion preventative compound, along with mastinox (JC5A jointing compound) so I don't have to fight with all the dissimilar metal corrosion again. My chassis will be back from galv and painting next week so all the fun begins on the rebuild. This has been quite the experience, my first landy, and as a learning experience I decide to completely restore it...before taking it back to canada. This forum has been very informative and helpful, Thanks to all with their feedback and tips. Tracy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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