freeagent Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 I know this is a bit off topic (Mods feel free to move or delete it if appropriate) My Dad has a smallish 3-phase generator powered by a 3 cylinder lister-peta air-cooled diesel engine. ever since he's owned it he has started it by bridging the two spade terminals on the starter motor with a screwdriver... he has just had a pacemaker fitted and cannot get too close to the genny now, so we need to change it to 'remote start' I have a 'push to make' switch, but i think i'll need a relay or contactor so the whole start-up power doesn't go through the switch... any ideas on what to use? I'm quite confident wiring it up, just don't really know what to use, any help would be most appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 I'd just use a Series type starter solenoid, connected accross the two terminals he bridges with his screwdriver. Connect the case of the solenoid to one battery terminal, the small terminal to one side of the switch and the other side of the switch to the other battery terminal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 would something like this work? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mini-Cooper-S-Mk1-Lu...1QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Yes. It even has a rubber boot on the top so you can manually activate it when the key switch fails. A SIII solenoid would do the same, but normally without the rubber boot for manual operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 (edited) A S3 starter solenoid (the square shaped type with a tit sticking out of the top of the square) is commonly used on Lister generators on many of the farms here so that will definitely do the trick. With a bit of ingenuity you can build a complete auto-start system to control it as well - I did in my A level electronics lab when the control box on Dad's Lister HR3 caught fire, so we had a fully auto clock-controlled set which came on and off at the appointed time Edited to add: one of these http://www.hollandrover.co.uk/starter-sole...ries-3-35-p.asp Edited February 12, 2008 by BogMonster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 12, 2008 Author Share Posted February 12, 2008 I've ordered a series 3 solenoid from Hollandrover, I might be back on here after the weekend for a wiring diagram, as I'm not too sure exactly what to do with it. I know the two big terminals need to connect to the two spades that we currently bridge with a screwdriver... but I'm not sure where to wire-in the 'push to make' switch.... We've got a series 3 workshop manual knocking about somewhere, I'm sure i can work somethink out from that... thanks for your help guys.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 I know the two big terminals need to connect to the two spades that we currently bridge with a screwdriver... but I'm not sure where to wire-in the 'push to make' switch.... We've got a series 3 workshop manual knocking about somewhere, I'm sure i can work somethink out from that... See Post #2 in this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 12, 2008 Author Share Posted February 12, 2008 Thanks Roger, having read that again it does make sense... do i need to earth the case aswell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Thanks Roger, having read that again it does make sense... do i need to earth the case aswell? Not necessarily, I'm not sure how your engine is wired, but if the battery is connected to the metalwork of the engine fixing the solenoid to the metalwork will automatically connect one side of the solenoid coil so you just need to take a wire from the "Live" side of the battery to the switch and another back to the small terminal on the solenoid. The battery live will be connected to one of the big terminals and that provides a convenient poit to connect the switch to. Hope that makes sense! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 12, 2008 Author Share Posted February 12, 2008 the engine is mounted on a skid with the alternator, and the battry stands on the floor next to it, connected up via an earth cable. If I bolt the solenoid onto the skid somewhere it should earth it through its body.... we need to keep the push start button 6 feet away from the Genny, so this looks like a good solution... thanks for your help, Matt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 If I bolt the solenoid onto the skid somewhere it should earth it through its body.... Yes, just make sure there is no paint or rust where you fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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