Fuel Pump Diaphragm Screws + Turbo Pressure

[Yakko]

Hi!

Trying to get a bit more power out of my 200tdi this afternoon.

Read all the write-ups about adjusting the diaphragm, going to give it a go.

Trying to get the top of the pump off to get to the diaphragm, I don't know who Landrover hired to do up those screws, but I can't get them loose! I'm quickly ruining the heads of the screws. Anyone else had this problem? Any ideas to make it a bit easier (they're soaking in WD40 now).

Also, put a boost gauge in this afternoon - it's making 0.8bar boost, but it builds fairly slowely. At 40mpg in 4th, will my foot to the floor, it only makes full boost at very high revs, just before I have to change gear. Is that normal?

Cheers!

[western]

200Tdi will stop boost at 0.8bar in standard form, is the boost pipe you fitted free from holes/splits & the air intake hosing should be damage free too

[Guest diesel_jim]

MY screws were also a PITA to get out, i think they'd been locktite'd in, as there was lots of white gungy stuff around the threads,

when i finally did get them out, i put bolts back in instead of screws, so i could get my little 3/8^ths rachet on to easily undo them.

A good write up here on ORRP with pictures on how to tweek the pump.

[Yakko]

when i finally did get them out, i put bolts back in instead of screws, so i could get my little 3/8^ths rachet on to easily undo them.

Good thinking on the bolts - will do that myself.

When it stops snowing i'll go back out and try the screws again, they've had 24hours to soak in WD40.

I pressure tested the boost gauge, fittings and hose to 2bar, so should be ok.

Cheers for the replies.

[BogMonster]

Screwdriver on the heads and tap the end of the screwdriver with a small hammer to shock them. Steel screw in alloy housing = the inevitable corrosion!

[m0bcg]

you need a flat bit out of an impact driver kit and a 1/4" drive ratchet to undo those screws on top of the inj pump .

just make sure you press down on top of the ratchet when undoing screws so that the flat bit stays tightly in the slot .

grease or copper slip the screws when you put them back in .

so long as you have no black smoke from exhuast at present then you can increase settings on the inj pump, but if you already get some smoke then you will only see more after adjusting .

for low end pull you can adjust the smoke screw on top of the pump , screw it down 1 turn at a time but if you see low rev black smoke you need to unscrew it again , it will only move 3 turns of adjustment before locknut wont work .

this is purely for that low end takeoff that you get when pulling off or in high gear low revs , anything above about 1500rpm it has no effect .

for mid range you adjust the AFC starwheel , which alters when the boost makes the diaphragm move down and add extra fuel .

you need it set so that you dont get loads of black smoke at half revs , so basically you adjust the starwheel down one turn at a time and you dont want black smoke at mid revs .

top end revs adjustment is the fuel screw on rear of pump , but this also affects all the range too , so it needs to be set so you dont get a load of black smoke when flat out in 3rd and also so you dont get black smoke all through the rev range .

make 1/4 turn adjustments at a time until you get what you want , clockwise to increase fuel .

you can directly loosen the locknut off first but make sure you hold the locknut with a 13mm spanner whilst making adjustments and whilst retightening the nut back up otherwise the adjustment will alter because the adjuster will turn .

when you increase or decrease the fuel screw adjustment you will also alter the idle revs and need to adjust them too .

300tdi is 720rpm idle speed , not sure of 200tdi but its not much different to that .

you can buy cheap laser handheld tachometers from ebay @ £16 + post from hong kong or china , about £24 total and well worth it .

cheap rev counters 0-6000rpm from ebay £29 , for use with diesels , connect to W terminal of alternator and have variable adjuster screw to sync revs to engine model number 60543SW-DZ www.autogauges.co.uk

incidently the landrover is designed to do 55mph when absolutely flat out in 3rd gear .

the diaphragm DOT mark position is richest when it points to the back of car and weakest when it points to the front .

standard setting is when its towards rocker cover or the wing .

if you base ito n a clock face then 12 oclock is straight towards rocker cover , and richest setting is 10 oclock and weakest at 4 oclock .

in weakest pisition you may find it wont rev up or pull , but this is remedied by drastically increasing the fuel screw on rear of pump .

adjusting the diaphragm dot mark position can drastically increase black smoke if you turn it to flat out , so you only really want to rotate the diaphragm a few degs at a time somewhere between 5 oclock and 10 oclock .

there are in effect 2 sides to the diaphragm adjustment , 180degs opposed to eachother , but with slightly differing results at top end revs .

mine i keep set at 5 oclock and then adjust the starwheel and fuel screw to suit , it runs smooth low down and i have little if any black smoke from exhaust except when i am about to stall in a high gear .

i am running a 300tdi but the 200 is same setup procedure .

you do need to make sure your injectors are known to be good , otherwise they can be the reason why you see lots of black smoke .

its common to see one injector faulty on these engines , even new injectors sometimes .

you can tell a bad injector problem by noting that at high revs the engine will sound like its missing a bit down through the exhaust pipe under seat and also engine will not rev up properly , the less exhaust silencers you have then the more noticeable the raspy noise will be .

there is also the pump timing you can adjust, ie to advance it slightly .

just remove the inspection cover from top of timing cover left hand side, then you see the pump pulley and injector pump shaft nut .

slightly loosen the 3x 10mm bolt heads and then using a 22mm [7/8" ] spanner you turn the pump shaft clockwise slightly by just a few mm of spanner movement , ie about 6mm movement clockwise of end of spanner .

the adjustment will only go as far as the slot in the pump pulley allows, so you cant go that far to get into much trouble .

you can advance or retard it by about 1" either direction according to the apnner movement on its end , then will come to end of pulley slots .

if you advance it too far and the engine makes too much diesel knock, then just back it off a little .

if you retard it too far you wil find engine will run or start rough, wont rev up and will make white/greay smoke , but dont worry just advance it a little and this will stop .

Hi!

Trying to get a bit more power out of my 200tdi this afternoon.

Read all the write-ups about adjusting the diaphragm, going to give it a go.

Trying to get the top of the pump off to get to the diaphragm, I don't know who Landrover hired to do up those screws, but I can't get them loose! I'm quickly ruining the heads of the screws. Anyone else had this problem? Any ideas to make it a bit easier (they're soaking in WD40 now).

Also, put a boost gauge in this afternoon - it's making 0.8bar boost, but it builds fairly slowely. At 40mpg in 4th, will my foot to the floor, it only makes full boost at very high revs, just before I have to change gear. Is that normal?

Cheers!

[Yakko]

Wow, what an awesome reply - thanks!

Have got an impact wrech, but not got any screw bits for it - so will try tapping the tops with a hammer to free them off.

I was just going to turn the diaphragm (I'll never get used to how to spell that properly) 90 degrees clockwise - i'd read that it makes the biggest difference. At the moment the car takes an AGE to get from 55 - 70 mph and loses speed dramatically on the slightest of hills at motorway speeds.

Boost levels seem ok (put a guage in yesterday) so i'm hoping it just needs a bit more fuel.

The car doesn't smoke at all, even on start-up, so i'm confident there's a bit of room for adjustment.

I do need to turn the idle down a bit, is it just case of loosening off the locknut and turning it down a bit? (Not easy seeing it, seems almost totally hidden by the pump)

Was about to go out, but it's now snowing HARD.

Cheers for all the help - appreciate it.

[white90]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31

[Yakko]

Screws off - if anyone finds this after searching and is having the same problem, I used a big flathead screwdriver with a pair of big molegrips locked round the handle, giving about 6 inches of leverage.

[Yakko]

Sorry if this is a stupid question, i've done a search and can't find the answer.

How do you adjust the idle?

I've found the adjuster, and have loosened off the locknut - this gives me a bit of threaded rod. How do I turn a 17 year old piece of threaded rod?

There's not room (nor would I want to try) getting some pliers or molegrips on it.

Is there a really obvous easy way i've missed?

Cheers.

[white90]

idle is adjusted by the throttle cable

you are talking about the full power screw on the back of the pump I'm guessing

[Yakko]

idle is adjusted by the throttle cable

you are talking about the full power screw on the back of the pump I'm guessing

Cheers, that was a quick reply! The throttle cable is now loose and I want it to idle lower. (It's always idled a bit high and adjusting the diaphragm and smoke screw seem to have made it slightly higher).

I can see there's a stop that the throttle arm hits which prevents the arm from moving any further back, I guess this needs screwing back a bit to allow the throttle arm to rotate a bit more - but I can't work out how to unscrew it, it's just a piece of threaded rod (covered in 17 years worth of crud!).

[white90]

here you go

[Yakko]

Perfect!

Thanks loads - I didn't consider there might be a slot for a screwdriver in the end. Bit of a schoolboy error on my part.

[white90]

No worries everybody has to learn