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Question regarding transmission


z00100
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Hey guys,

First post here!

Anyway, I need some major help from you guys. I have a 2004 Discovery Petrol version which has done only 55K km on it. So it's pretty new. About the 42K km mark I started having transmission issues.

Here is the problem I have on my automatic transmission.

Shifts from 1st to 2nd (only) happen in a jerky fashion.

The feeling is identical to as if you have the car stationary and in neutral and give it a bit of accelerator say 1500RPM and then move the shifter to D. It will engage with a jerk/shudder.

Now the problem is that it happens intermittently. But more often than not. So I would say 70% of the time it jerks but sometimes it's smooth as silk.

As usual, I took it to the dealer and they said that it's a transmission problem (DUH!) and that it requires a replacement. Price for parts and labor is around 8000 dollars.

That's insane and I refuse to pay that much.

Hopefully I can diagnose this with you guys' help and can fix or at least find out what is causing the problem.

Thanks in advance!

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Where are you?

If in the UK I would have said talk to Ashcroft Transmissions but as you are talking about dollars I guess you are not in the UK. It may be worth talking to them anyway they might be able to throw some light on the problem.

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Where are you?

If in the UK I would have said talk to Ashcroft Transmissions but as you are talking about dollars I guess you are not in the UK. It may be worth talking to them anyway they might be able to throw some light on the problem.

I'm a Canadian Expat living in Saudi Arabia. Aside from the dealer there is nobody knowledgable in fixing LR's.

:angry: :angry: :angry:

Any way, there is 1 shop that does LR repairs, and I haven't tried them yet, but I would like to go to either the Dealer or the other shop with at least some knowledge of the problem so they don't swindle me out of my money.

Anything I can do to get it checked out? According to the dealer, they hooked up the OBDII computer up to the car and the transmission reports " NO FAULTS STORED ".

So as far as they are concerned, the tranny is fine and if I want the problem to disappear, I have to fork out 8000 dollars. :blink: :blink:

My limited knowledge of car mechanics indicate that the problem most probably is hydraulic in nature. Perhaps some sort of vaccum booster or something is not generating enough pressure to engage 1st to second.

On a side note, I used to note that when I start the car when it is off, the car is of course in P. So I step on the brakes and move the shfter to D. When D engages, I could feel the car kind of flex. In other words I could feel it engage into D. But these days D engages without that "feeling".

Any advice is appreciated!

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Is your fluid level correct? Low fluid can cause problems.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk

They do make comment in the FAQ section about auto boxes being reluctant to shift up from 1st when cold.

Has yours had a recent fluid & filter change?

If not it would be worth doing this, although Ashcroft say they do wonder if this may cause problems you already have a problem so you really have nothing to lose and it has cured problems for others.

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Is your fluid level correct? Low fluid can cause problems.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk

They do make comment in the FAQ section about auto boxes being reluctant to shift up from 1st when cold.

Has yours had a recent fluid & filter change?

If not it would be worth doing this, although Ashcroft say they do wonder if this may cause problems you already have a problem so you really have nothing to lose and it has cured problems for others.

I have a similar-sounding problem with the change quality being harsh, first to second, only when warm, changes smooth as you like when cold.

I've just done a gearbox oil change and that has improved matters a bit. You probably know that to do the auto-box oil change (total capacity9 ltrs) you do it in 2 stages, empty out about 4-5ltrs (that's all that will come out, the rest stays in the torque convertor) and refill, then 100 or so miles later (when the new oil has had a chance to mix with the existing old stuff) do it again.

I've done stage 1 and it's improved so I'm hoping that stage 2 will improve it further.

Cheers

Dave

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Is the Transmission a 4HP-22. If so and it has an ECU connected to it, it is probably going into emergency(limp) mode. Check the electrical connection to the box and make sure it is completely dry (ie no oil on it) If it is contaminated, clean it with brake cleaner and make sure it is dry before you refit it. If no joy. change the trans fluid and filter and go from there. You can also get the parts for it from BMW dealers.

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Is the Transmission a 4HP-22. If so and it has an ECU connected to it, it is probably going into emergency(limp) mode. Check the electrical connection to the box and make sure it is completely dry (ie no oil on it) If it is contaminated, clean it with brake cleaner and make sure it is dry before you refit it. If no joy. change the trans fluid and filter and go from there. You can also get the parts for it from BMW dealers.

How would I find out if the transmission is a 4HP-22?

I think I'll have to take it to a mechanic to get the transmission oil replaced.

Is this something that a normal mechanic can do or does this require a LR technician?

I have the RAVE manuals and can most probably figure out where the bolt to drain the tranmission is...........

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Your manual will probably say if its a 4HP-22. Look at the gearbox sump. Is it held on by 6 bolts, 1 at each corner and 1 either side in the middle? If yes then very possible its the box in question. Anyway, an oil change is easy and there's nothing to be afraid of. Make sure you get the right oil, a new sump gasket and a filter and "O" ring. 1, Drain the sump 2, remove the sump ( oil will drip all the time the sump is off) 3, with a torx driver remove the filter( more oil will come out) 4, fit the new filter and O ring ( don't over tighten) 5, wash the sump pan 6, fit the new gasket and pan ( almost impossible to over tighten) 7, put some oil back in and run the engine. Check its selecting gears. Run the selector through all the gears with the engine running and dip the trans fluid level. Top up as neccessary. Run through the gears before checking the level every time ( this makes sure the valve block is full).

DO NOT overfill it, it will have the same effect as under- filling it. The marks on the dipstick are for hot and cold trans. Refer to your manual. Oh yes, remember to put the sump plug back in. Make sure your kickdown cable is also adjusted properly.

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How would I find out if the transmission is a 4HP-22?

I think I'll have to take it to a mechanic to get the transmission oil replaced.

Is this something that a normal mechanic can do or does this require a LR technician?

I have the RAVE manuals and can most probably figure out where the bolt to drain the tranmission is...........

If it is a 4.0 litre engine it is a 4HP22

If it is a 4.6 litre (rare) it is a 4HP24

The comments would apply to either though and both are electronically controlled

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If it is a 4.0 litre engine it is a 4HP22

If it is a 4.6 litre (rare) it is a 4HP24

The comments would apply to either though and both are electronically controlled

I am 99.8% sure that it's a 4.6 Engine. This is Saudi Arabia after all :P

Will check and update.

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