Just purchased a 83 RR in Cosat Rica

[RR370]

Hi everyone.

I've justed purchased a 83 Range Rover and ask a few questions. First I'm from England live in MA USA and commute to Costa Rica to work. I purchased the car in Costa Rica where LR are very popular. Te RR is 4 speed V8 and looks pretty goos for the year. I have good knowledge of Brit cars. My hobby is rallying. I drive and build my own cars. I build many engines so doing mechcanical work. First the carbs were way off so that's sorted.

Problems include leaking swivel joints(ball joints are in good shape) front crankshaft leak, lot's of play in the steering and the speedo needle jumps every few seconds. Any good tips on the following would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

[SteveRK]

Hi

Regards from ball joints - most do! If like me you refilled them with EP90 then they will leak. Try 'one shot' grease which is like normal grease but once warm flows. The idea is that after driving it cools down and solidifies thereby reducing leaks significantly - Important to thoroughly drain out the existing oil otherwise it will thin the grease ne-gating the effect.

Steering play - adjust the box via the Allen key adjuster - more wear will be in the straight ahead position so when adjusting aim for minimal detectable free play off-centre.

Front crank - this may be from the joint between the sump and front engine cover. If the front cover has been off in the past for timing chain etc. the cork sump gasket is usually damaged in the process. The front cover mates with the sump across the front of the engine.

Hope this helps

[bishbosh]

Welcome!

Before you go adjusting the steering box, check the condition of all the track rod ends by getting a handy helper to rock the steering wheel too and fro whilst you look under the car to see if their is any play in the TRE's. Also check the condition of the UJ's on the steering shaft.

If the speedo needle is jumping I suspect the square drive shaft on the end of the speedo cable at the transfer case is not so square any more and occasionally slips. Cheap and easy to replace.

Leaking swivels points to the seal going. When you replace them, also check the swivel bearings are correctly asjusted as if the swivel can rock then it will damage the new seal. As suggested already, changing to one shot grease may cure the problem if the seals aren't too bad.

[missingsid]

Welcome,

I can't help with your problems, but I do envy you working in Costa Rica.

I noticed a few RR when over there.

Marc.

[steve_d]

The speedo drive problem may be the right angle gearbox on the back of the dash. The drive cable comes up from below then has to go 90 degrees into the speedo head. The 'box gets worn but is stupid money to replace (£69).

I fixed mine by making a fibre washer the right size to go over the square drive on the drive cable. When the cable is fitted the washer takes out the end float (lash if you have become fully Americanised) in the 'box.

Steve

[RR370]

Thanks everyone. I'm going to do some checking tonight. The most frustrating thing is all my tools are in the US, so big jobs are even bigger. So to give you a laugh: I first looked at the RR and what a piece of junk. Driving comfirmed my thoughts(lucky for me I know how LR drive) the RR was in poor shape. Flat out a snail could out drag it! So I looked it over again and parted with $2900. Quite cheap for Costa Rica as car tax is 100% Next I was laughing my socks off as the left carb opened only 1/2 throttle and the right 3/4 . The left jet was 1/8th further down than the right. The dash pots were filled with auto tranny fluid. 3 hours later I had idling and running like a sewing machine. I also ripped off the filter box and fitted some K+N cone filters on.

Swivel hubs I've since checked and are in good condition but I will check for wear. The seal has gone hard so I feel that's why it leaks. So I'll have to swap them.

The steering box is worn I'm sure. I tried to use the adjusting nut on the top of the box but it would not tighten any more. Plus now it leaks fluid since I adjusted it. The steering wheel moves about 2" in straight ahead postition. The rear tie rods are shot too!

The crankshaft seal I believe is faulty as oil is dripping out there. Problem is no one has the 34 mm socket to loosen the nut.

The speedo I will check as per Steves instructions.

Apart from the above the RR is in fairly good shape.

RR and LR are very popular in CR. www.crautos.com I think nearly all the LR/RR came to CR as the is so many of all ages. Gas is expensive here so Diesels fetch loads of money. The other good think is there are plenty of roads to go serious off roading without greenies moaning.

I will report back soon...thanks for your help.

[RR370]

I did the crank seal last night after loaning a 34mm socket from a rally friend. It was going to cost $70 just to buy the tools so I was happy I could loan. I return to the US on Saturday and will search for a good steering box for my return in 2 weeks. I also need the flexible rubber steering joint as the previous owner wired it up!!!

I drove the car last night and it's actually nice to drive for a 25yrs old car.

[RR370]

Next Sunday I will be back in Costa Rica with I hope the used steering box I won on Ebay(AA check in will get a shock!). It is in better shape than my box and off a 91 so I hope it fits. I have the speedo and fuel/temp gauge console and wondered if the later US console with tacho will fit? Looks better and at least I know what revs I'm doing!

I'm also going to change the tie rods. I hope then I can drive in a straight line!!!

[RR370]

The lastest up-date!!! I got a good steering box off Ebay from a US market 91 RR. I checked it in at the airport but when I arrived in Costa Rica the bag was still in Boston. The reason being the Gunk engine cleaner I used to clean the box made them panic. So after a few frantic calls the box arrived.

I went to get the car last night in the heavy rain, a 2 hour journey. Once I got to the RR the battery was dead. Lucky the house was on a hill so a quick bump fired the RR up but to my horror the oil light didn't go out! The Hydraulic tappets were rattling so I turned off the engine. Now I was stuck at the bottom of the hill at 11pm . My friend helped me jump the car but still the oil light was on. I thought well I've most likely wrecked the engine now so best thing to do is drive it back to house and leave it until next time. So I reversed slowly up the road and just as I parked the car the oil light went out and the engine sounded normal. So I decided to drive the 30miles back to see what happens. Nothing thankfully. This morning was the first time I had seen the car in daylight! It looks OK.

So a few questions: The steering box looks the same apart from my 83 has the 2 inlet/outlet pipes on the top for the hoses as the 91. The rear conection(veiwed from front) looks the same size but the front is smaller than the 91 box. Anyone done such a conversion? what thread sizes? I know the front one is a small spark plug size thread because I used a sparky to plug the hole in transit.

The oil light staying on: anyone experience this? this morning it didn't do it.

The speedo is as suggested. The right angle conection is worn as I can hear it clicking.

Any help is greatly appreciated as trying to locate stuff here is a nightmare. Plus not speaking Spanish does not help.