Remove the EGR valve

[therealboss]

Today the EGR Blanking kit I ordered off Ebay arrived so I went about fitting it, all in all it took me about 20mins to fit. I thought that someone might be thinking of doing this little mod, so I have written a short Howto.

If I have missed anything, please feel free to add to this post.

Tools needed:-

Flat Blade Screwdriver for hose clip.

10mm socket (1/4" drive is best)

5mm Allen Key

The work involved..

I think its best to do this job with the engine cold but I started the engine for a few mins thinking that it would help undoing the bolts. (I've see reports of bolts being hard to remove from the exhaust manifold).

Remove engine cover and radiator cover, this will allow easy access to Inlet and exhaust manifolds and the EGR valve/pipe & connectors. Now you can see the EGR Valve on the left hand side bolted on the end of the inlet manifold with a stainless steel pipe running from the EGr valve around the front of the engine and into the exhaust manifold.

Undo the hose clip connecting the rubber hose to the EGR Valve.

Undo the 4 bolts (8mm Socket) securing the EGR valve.

Undo the 2 bolts holding the stainless steel pipe to the exhaust manifold.

Undo the bolt securing the stainless steel pipe to the engine (10mm Socket).

You should now be able to to lift out the EGR Valve and its stainless steel pipe.

Thats it.........

Opps I almost forgot, now we need to fit the blanking off kit.

Before I fitted the kit, I cleaned around the inside of the inlet manifold and the rubber pipe that connects to it. I also checked the condition of the rubber pipe and the condition of all the bolts. I was lucky that all the bolts came out with ease and I used my super duper 5mm Allen "T Bar" to undo the Allen Bolts.

(NOTE, you might run into problems if you only have a cheap set of Allen Keys, I would suggest that you buy a good quality 5mm Allen Key socket to do this job. If you ring out the inside of the Allen Bolts, this 20min job could turn out to take 20 hours).

The kit I bought of Ebay, came with everything that I needed apart from the tools. Below is the packing list that came with the kit.

1 x EGR Valve removal cone & gasket (5mm Stainless Steel Precision Laser Cut and TIG welded)

1 x Blanking plate & gasket (5mm Stainless Steel Precision Laser Cut)

2 x EGR solenoid vacuum Blanking Plugs.

1 x Complete with step by step, colour photo fitting instructions.

Fitting the kit is as follows:-

Bolt on the EGR Valve removal cone & gasket to the inlet manifold (4 bolts) 8mm Socket.

Bolt on the Blanking plate & gasket to the ehaust manifold (2 bolts) 5mm Allen Key.

Replace the bolt that was holding the Stainless steel pipe to the engine (10mm Socket).

Now to remove the vacuum pipe and blank it off.

The plastic pipe that attached to the EGR valve on my Discovery was blue. This ran from the valve to the solinoide/modulator that is located just behind the radiator expansion tank (the tank full of pink fluid). On the instructions that came with the kit it said that some engines have 2 vacuum pipes that run from the valve to the solinoide/modulator, but mine only had 1 pipe.

Trace the pipe that attached to the old valve back to the solinoide/modulator and removed it. In it's place fit the blanking plug that comes with the kit to the solinoide/modulator to blank it off.

Replace the engine cover and radiator cover.

Jobs done..

Good luck.

[CYmon]

Today the EGR Blanking kit I ordered off Ebay arrived so I went about fitting it, all in all it took me about 20mins to fit. I thought that someone might be thinking of doing this little mod, so I have written a short Howto.

My Nanocom unit tells me that my EGR value is stuck closed...

... saves me buying a Blanking kit

...but... I still have the valve in the middle (will this seriously affect the air intake) and what will this do to emissions controls...?

I would have thought that an intercooler upgrade was more interesting...

Cheers

Simon

PS Your book mentions 2 pipes... Rave tells us that there are two systems in use to meet two different emissions levels...

"There are two types of exhaust gas recirculation system used with the Td5 engine dependent on legislation and

market requirements, these are type 1 and type 2.

Type 1 EGR system is fitted to all Td5's built up to the introduction of 2002 MY, except for Japanese specification

vehicles.

Type 2 EGR system is fitted to all Japanese specification vehicles and was introduced into European markets for 2002

MY to meet EU3 emission requirements. An additional feature introduced at 2002 MY is the EGR cooler, which is

bolted to the front of the cylinder head."

[therealboss]

My Nanocom unit tells me that my EGR value is stuck closed...

... saves me buying a Blanking kit

...but... I still have the valve in the middle (will this seriously affect the air intake) and what will this do to emissions controls...?

I would have thought that an intercooler upgrade was more interesting...

Cheers

Simon

PS Your book mentions 2 pipes... Rave tells us that there are two systems in use to meet two different emissions levels...

"There are two types of exhaust gas recirculation system used with the Td5 engine dependent on legislation and

market requirements, these are type 1 and type 2.

Type 1 EGR system is fitted to all Td5's built up to the introduction of 2002 MY, except for Japanese specification

vehicles.

Type 2 EGR system is fitted to all Japanese specification vehicles and was introduced into European markets for 2002

MY to meet EU3 emission requirements. An additional feature introduced at 2002 MY is the EGR cooler, which is

bolted to the front of the cylinder head."

I don't have a Nanocom ( going to ask santa for one), but as I understand it, the ECU thinks everything is the way it was and I should not get any error codes. As to your question regarding the valve being stuck, I don't know but maybe someone else can help.

The idea of this thread was just to help anyone who is thinking of removing the valve and to show them that it is a very easy job. If your valve is stuck or in any other way not working I can't comment as I don't know the answers. But from what I read it is better to remove the valve and by doing it the way I have, removes any restriction that there might have been.

[therealboss]

When I done this little job, I took some photos, but just my luck wiped them of the card soon after. Has anyone got some photos of a Disco with the EGR Valve in place that I can upload to this howto. I can take a pic of the removed EGR valve but this would not be the same as some pics with the engine cover taken off.

[JimAttrill]

Most of those EGR things in the ECU are wishful thinking and can be completely ignored. It is normal to have manual cars reporting errors with the auto box and other spurious errors. There is one like 'top switch open circuit' which I see often and means absolutely nothing. Most ECUs have at least two silly errors. To have no errors at all is rare.

Best to get rid of the EGR for mechanical reasons, including the pipe falling off. This cannot happen if it is not there. It also pleases me on the KISS basis.

[Anderzander]

Good post.

Before too long I'll be doing this on my defender. If I remember, I'll take some pics of mine when I do that.

[therealboss]

Good post.

Before too long I'll be doing this on my defender. If I remember, I'll take some pics of mine when I do that.

OK, thanks.

[Ally V8]

Most of those EGR things in the ECU are wishful thinking and can be completely ignored. It is normal to have manual cars reporting errors with the auto box and other spurious errors. There is one like 'top switch open circuit' which I see often and means absolutely nothing. Most ECUs have at least two silly errors. To have no errors at all is rare.

Best to get rid of the EGR for mechanical reasons, including the pipe falling off. This cannot happen if it is not there. It also pleases me on the KISS basis.

What diagnostic kit do you use ?

[JimAttrill]

Rovacom Lite and Nanocom 1. They agree apart from the base number being different.

[MRWOO]

According to these two reads, the EGR helps to reduce combustion temperatures and detonation, any thought?

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov97/gas.htm

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec97/egr.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EGR_Valve

[Porny]

According to these two reads, the EGR helps to reduce combustion temperatures and detonation, any thought?

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov97/gas.htm

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec97/egr.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EGR_Valve

The first two links seem to refer more to Spark Ignition Engines (petrol) but the third link does have a more interesting section

There are trade offs however. Adding EGR to a diesel reduces the specific heat ratio of the combustion gases in the power stroke. This reduces the amount of power that can be extracted by the piston. EGR also tends to reduce the amount of fuel burned in the power stroke. This is evident by the increase in particulate emissions that corresponds to an increase in EGR. Particulate matter (mainly carbon) that is not burned in the power stroke is wasted energy. Stricter regulations on particulate matter(PM) call for further emission controls to be introduced to compensate for the PM emissions introduced by EGR. The most common is particulate filters in the exhaust system that result in reduce fuel efficiency. Since EGR increases the amount of PM that must be dealt with and reduces the exhaust gas temperatures and available oxygen these filters need to function properly to burn off soot, automakers have had to consider injecting fuel and air directly into the exhaust system to keep these filters from plugging up.

The thing any of the links fail to mention is the problems caused by EGR's... (copied from my post in the internation section - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=28642)

The problem with Td5 EGR valves (and 300tdi for that matter) is that over time the carbon (and sludge) build up prevents the valve from sealing correctly, which results in exhaust gas bleeding past all of the time. If the percentage of EGR gets too high (and is being passed all of the time) it can lead to serious problems - including rapid bore wear, reduced MPG, increased smoke and poor acceleration. There has been numerous SAE papers written about this.

Another factor to consider is on what diesel you use in your Td5...

In the UK it isn't such a problem, but if you travel overseas and use high suplher diesel you find the EGR pipes become corroded.

Bit more info - http://irbdevelopments.com/EGRexplan.html

Not saying I'm right, but this is my understanding.

Also... if your EGR kit is one of the Britpart ones off EBAY, I'd be very tempeted to fit two jubilee clips where the intake pipes goes onto your replacement inlet section!! The ones on EBay do not have any addtional method to prevent the pipe from being blown off under boost pressure, and instead rely on the reistance from the jubilee clip - not ideal!!

Ian

[MRWOO]

The first two links seem to refer more to Spark Ignition Engines (petrol) but the third link does have a more interesting section

The thing any of the links fail to mention is the problems caused by EGR's... (copied from my post in the internation section - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=28642)

The problem with Td5 EGR valves (and 300tdi for that matter) is that over time the carbon (and sludge) build up prevents the valve from sealing correctly, which results in exhaust gas bleeding past all of the time. If the percentage of EGR gets too high (and is being passed all of the time) it can lead to serious problems - including rapid bore wear, reduced MPG, increased smoke and poor acceleration. There has been numerous SAE papers written about this.

Another factor to consider is on what diesel you use in your Td5...

In the UK it isn't such a problem, but if you travel overseas and use high suplher diesel you find the EGR pipes become corroded.

Bit more info - http://irbdevelopments.com/EGRexplan.html

Not saying I'm right, but this is my understanding.

Also... if your EGR kit is one of the Britpart ones off EBAY, I'd be very tempeted to fit two jubilee clips where the intake pipes goes onto your replacement inlet section!! The ones on EBay do not have any addtional method to prevent the pipe from being blown off under boost pressure, and instead rely on the reistance from the jubilee clip - not ideal!!

Ian

Thanks for this info Ian, it's good to hear that you work alongside Pete at BAS with your developments, I'm currently undertaking tests to help Pete fine tune EGR blanking in the Puma Defender.

So far the plate seems to eliminate alot of problems we suffering from, such as irratic idles and increased rough/engine noise (like mine).

The problem Pete is trying to cure for us is how to keep the engine lamp off?

Regards Rich