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Clutch pedal travel


samtope

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Hi all, got an issue with the clutch on my s3 regarding the biting point travelling nearer and nearer to the floor over the last hundred miles. It is now an effort to engage a gear when at a stand-still, although the the clutch does work once it gets going. Fluid is fine and I would expect it to wear much more gradually if it is just wear and tear. Any ideas on the first place to start looking? Haynes doesnt specificaly describe my problem in the regularly visited 'fault finding' section.. Thanks in advance!

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Sounds familiar to my clutch problem. Beld the clutch and it made it significantly worse - replaced the clutch MASTER cylinder and cured the problem. Took apart the old unit and basically the seals were badly, but evenly worn.

I took a chance as it could have been the SLAVE cylinder but i figured that the master cylinder travel is more and therefore the seals get more wear than the slave cylinder

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Thanks for the speedy replies, will be giving it some attention over the weekend. On the journey to work last night the biting point reached a new low, somewhere just below the floor pan. On a hill. In third. So naturally I came to a stalling stop. Third was the only gear it would slip in to, so I had to put it low 'box just to pull away. At the top I put it back in high 'box whilst very slowly rolling and drove to work without using the clutch, just going through the motions of double de clutching. Lucky I work nights and there's nothing in the country lanes of Somerset. Just wish my girl had been there to see me being such a hero! Ok, I'll report soon on on the fix..

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Bought a new master cylinder, about £55 fron County landrover in taunton. Fixed the problem, but this is a tricky job for anyone thinking of taking it on! I had to mutilate 2 of my spanners with a grinder cutting one in half and grinding down the jaws of another just to make it fit in the channel one of the nuts was in. That kind of aggro was pretty much the theme of the whole job, and bleeding the system without an assistant was hard work to finish the job off.. Took me about 6 hours in all, including tea and swearing breaks. Sure I've saved a few notes at the garage though, that is why I bought the thing after all!

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Result - glad to hear you sorted it. Familiar theme with Land Rovers in that some jobs are a bugger - considering where Land Rovers are intended to be used these are the sorts of jobs that sometimes need to be done and should have been considered by LR during the design stage :(

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  • 2 weeks later...
Bought a new master cylinder, about £55 fron County landrover in taunton. Fixed the problem, but this is a tricky job for anyone thinking of taking it on! I had to mutilate 2 of my spanners with a grinder cutting one in half and grinding down the jaws of another just to make it fit in the channel one of the nuts was in. That kind of aggro was pretty much the theme of the whole job, and bleeding the system without an assistant was hard work to finish the job off.. Took me about 6 hours in all, including tea and swearing breaks. Sure I've saved a few notes at the garage though, that is why I bought the thing after all!

If you remove the pedal box from the vehicle and use a tube in a bottle with a vent (ie: a home made easybleed (about £6 in shops I think)) to bleed you'll get the job done in well under an hour with not a bad word to be said. Oh, as long as the pedal box bolts are rusted or stripped :angry:

PS: Don't re-use the bled fluid.

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