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Making my 300tdi live!!! Help :)


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Hello one and all.

Can some one help me sort out my nightmare of a wire-a-thon?

Over the last few weeks I've been re-wiring and rebuilding my V8 110 CSW as a 300tdi with a disco engine and box,

I have now rewired the body shell and dash I now just need to mate the 300tdi engine and engine loom to the shell.

My question is this, how do I go about bringing the 300tdi to life?

I'll be locating the ecu in the dash behind a custom panel but what do I need to do to make the engine work with the loom in the V8.

All help will be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks in advance

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throw the ecu away & remove the electrical part [not the shutoff soleniod] from the injection pump,

you need to connect ----

oil pressure switch

water temp switch -- note Disco sender won't work with the existing gauge

fuel shut-off sloenoid

alternator

starter motor

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the 300TDi ecu only does the electronic diesel control, if you ditch it, it'll be the same as any Defender 300TDi [non -ecu] engine, only Discovery/RR had the ecu.can't see the ecu being any benefit.

The EDC 300TDI uses a different injection pump, so to ditch the ECU you will also have to replace the injection pump. You will need to mount the throttle potentiometer and airflow meter and the boost detection module and connect them up correctly if you are going to use the EDC/ECU.

The EDC engines are rated at 122BHP from the factory rather than 111BHP that the non-edc ones are from the factory this was mostly down to the EDC engines being attached to an Auto gearbox.

However if we are talking EGR then as Western says throw the lot away. and connect an ignition feed to the stop solenoid and connect up the starter motor and it should start and run fine (providing it has fuel ;) )

Pete.

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Hello again, sorry but the fuel pump is cabled not drive by wire like suggested. :)

In that case it won't have an ECU. All it needs to make it run is a ignition feed (use the feed to the coil from the petrol loom) to the stop solenoid on the engine and connect the starter up as it would have been on the petrol engine and having bled the fuel system, it should start. There will also be the heater plug relay/timer but it should start with out that connected.

Pete.

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(use the feed to the coil from the petrol loom) to the stop solenoid on the engine

Beware that many V8s had a 6v coil that was fed 12v when you cranked the starter to give a better spark for starting. Thus the coil feed may well have a resistor in it (or even be a resistor wire) meaning that is is not suitable for feeding the diesel stop solenoid. It may even be the case that the coil's 6v feed is disabled when being supplied 12v (by a seperate wire) during engine cranking, if this is the case you will never start it!

In short, make sure that you have 12v under all conditions before relying on the old coil feed wire.

Bisbosh, are you listening?

Chris

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Beware that many V8s had a 6v coil that was fed 12v when you cranked the starter to give a better spark for starting. Thus the coil feed may well have a resistor in it (or even be a resistor wire) meaning that is is not suitable for feeding the diesel stop solenoid. It may even be the case that the coil's 6v feed is disabled when being supplied 12v (by a seperate wire) during engine cranking, if this is the case you will never start it!

In short, make sure that you have 12v under all conditions before relying on the old coil feed wire.

Bisbosh, are you listening?

Chris

Cheers Chris,

Its been along time since I played with a petrol powered vehicle, that I had forgotten about ballast resitors and the like.

as Chris says make sure you definately have 12v at the stop solenoid when cranking the engine as well as in the normal run position on the ignition switch.

Pete.

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