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v8 with oil light on


ianpittas

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hi ,my '86 3.5 efi now has the oil light coming on when on tick over after thr engine has been running for a while,the engine is a bit noisey and done 99000 miles,should i try a thicker oil as i dont know whats in it at the moment.also how difficult is it to change the oil pump gears with engine in situ.engine still has plenty of power but worried about the light a little.

cheers

ian

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Snap.

Mine is the same but I did the pump last year and run Halfords classic oil which is about as thick as it gets without finding something specialist.

Pump is not difficult to do just remember to pack it with Vasaline when you rebuild it or the oil system will not prime.

Have bought mine a 3.9 for Christmas.

Steve

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Snap.

Mine is the same but I did the pump last year and run Halfords classic oil which is about as thick as it gets without finding something specialist.

Pump is not difficult to do just remember to pack it with Vasaline when you rebuild it or the oil system will not prime.

Have bought mine a 3.9 for Christmas.

Steve

cheer's will give it a go.was looking on ebay at replacemnt engines but unsure on 3.5 or 3.9 as could buy one no better than mine,or to rebuild my 3.5.

is a 3.9 a fairly straight forward drop in,a new ecu would also be needed?

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I found when my old 3.5 efi 90 engine oil light started flickering on tick over it lead to the overall destruction of the engine on a 30 mile drive home from a play day. :(

but a good remedy I found was the 4.2 I had sat in the garage ;) also a noticable increase in power

I have had mated chase round oil pressure problems for weeks and I found its much easyer to just change the engine with something you have tested and checked out before I found its cheaper and mush less time consuming. if you have the space I tend to buy a classic take what I want the floge the rest.

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hi ,my '86 3.5 efi now has the oil light coming on when on tick over after thr engine has been running for a while,the engine is a bit noisey and done 99000 miles,should i try a thicker oil as i dont know whats in it at the moment.also how difficult is it to change the oil pump gears with engine in situ.engine still has plenty of power but worried about the light a little.

cheers

ian

Just a idea have you changed the switch with a new one as that may be at fault had a simliar problem with a old tractor and was just the switch.

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cheer's will give it a go.was looking on ebay at replacemnt engines but unsure on 3.5 or 3.9 as could buy one no better than mine,or to rebuild my 3.5.

is a 3.9 a fairly straight forward drop in,a new ecu would also be needed?

yeh all is the same i think bar the odd hose or something, i have only changed from a 3.5 to a 3.9 in my series 3 so dont know about rangie but i can definlty tell you that the loom, ECU will need to be changed and the air flow meter will be different on the intake. The 3.5 has a flapper type system and the 3.9 has hotwire which is apparently loads better. If you do change get a complete engine, loom and ECU as geting them sperate and in one piece can be hard work!

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Or ditch the stock ECU's and go megasquirt :P

I'd agree with the comments above:

- Try an oil & filter change

- Try a new oil light switch (they do go faulty especially after being dunked off-road)

- Beyond that I wouldn't spend the money on an old 3.5 lump really unless you absolutely can't stretch to a new engine. Bear in mind if it's not the pump it could be other more expensive things.

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The 3.9 I'm fitting is the later serpentine drive and has an oil cooler in the rad so have had to source a rad as well. I don't know if all 3.9s are this way.

Mine is also going Megasquirt.

Had to make a new bracket for the coils as the front cover is a different design. I now have a spare bracket that fits a 3.5 or non-serpentine 3.9 if anyone wants it. Also have a chopped down dizzy I no longer need.

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Making new loom for the injectors

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post-5245-1229718649_thumb.jpg

Steve

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