oneten110 Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Just a cautionary tale. I recently replaced the discs, pads, calipers, fluid and flexibles on my 110. Whilst I had the hubs off I cleaned all the old grease out and refilled with fresh. Same with the bearings, cleaned the old grease out and re-greased. Re-assembled all, taking great care to get everything right, using lots of new fastenings, loctite and the proper torque setttings. Set the wheel bearings with a dial gauge. The whole bit. But I could not get a decent pedal, correction, I got a decent pedal until I drove the vehicle, then it would go soft on me, but not consistently so and always more consistently when going backwards. I could drive 5 feet backwards and the pedal would be almost to the floor, but do 60 miles forward on a motorway and have a hard pedal at the end of it. I endured the problem for a week until I had the time to get really stuck into it, tried a couple of bleeding sessions in the meantime, but no air. Then last weekend I decided to have a real go at it. Took the wheels off and sat the truck on axle stands, so it was easier to get to the bleed nipples basically. The idea was to drain the system of all fluid and start again. I had sort of convinced myself that there was some air trapped somewhere. Then I sort of over-balanced and tipped into the front offside hub, as I pulled myself back up, I noticed a fair bit of movement in the hub, checked the remainder and all were a bit loose. Checked with a dial gauge again and there was considerably more movement than the 1 thou I had set them to the previous week. I can only presume that all the fresh grease had been squeezed out of the bearings, even though I had pre-loaded them before trying to set them. So loose wheel bearings allowing the wheels and (by extension) the discs to wobble, was resulting in the pads getting batted back further than they normally would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Just a cautionary tale. I recently replaced the discs, pads, calipers, fluid and flexibles on my 110. Whilst I had the hubs off I cleaned all the old grease out and refilled with fresh. Same with the bearings, cleaned the old grease out and re-greased. Re-assembled all, taking great care to get everything right, using lots of new fastenings, loctite and the proper torque setttings. Set the wheel bearings with a dial gauge. The whole bit. But I could not get a decent pedal, correction, I got a decent pedal until I drove the vehicle, then it would go soft on me, but not consistently so and always more consistently when going backwards. I could drive 5 feet backwards and the pedal would be almost to the floor, but do 60 miles forward on a motorway and have a hard pedal at the end of it. I endured the problem for a week until I had the time to get really stuck into it, tried a couple of bleeding sessions in the meantime, but no air. Then last weekend I decided to have a real go at it. Took the wheels off and sat the truck on axle stands, so it was easier to get to the bleed nipples basically. The idea was to drain the system of all fluid and start again. I had sort of convinced myself that there was some air trapped somewhere. Then I sort of over-balanced and tipped into the front offside hub, as I pulled myself back up, I noticed a fair bit of movement in the hub, checked the remainder and all were a bit loose. Checked with a dial gauge again and there was considerably more movement than the 1 thou I had set them to the previous week. I can only presume that all the fresh grease had been squeezed out of the bearings, even though I had pre-loaded them before trying to set them. So loose wheel bearings allowing the wheels and (by extension) the discs to wobble, was resulting in the pads getting batted back further than they normally would. Something similar used to happen with mini coopers on the 10" discs. when the bearings showed any signs of wear the pedal travel was really noticable. Several people used to turn up with a high pedal travel and assume it was brakes, it often turned out to be the bearings were worn, like you say, pack them high with grease and sometimes you need to be sure that your torquing the bearing and not torquing the grease! Jas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 When I was taught to adjust wheel bearings a DTI was something that the turners used.Kept in the tool store,not for normal issue!!! I still adjust wheel bearings the way I was taught.,This modern light type grease makes the job easy. You should have tried adjusting wheel bearings packed with Marfac Non Seperating Grease. I tighten the bearing.Then back off the nut.Then I adjust the bearing. So far so good. Watch me do the next one and the wheel fall off LOL By Sunbeam rally car had aluminium hube.The bearings needed to be set salack so when the aluminium heated up the bearings were correctly adjusted.I always got a notice from my MOT man to say bearings need adjusting. I eat rat poison. mike I can cause trouble in an empty house ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 An old favourite, this one and bloomin' puzzling when you don't realise it's the bearings ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.