M&S Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Hi all, thought I'd post pics of the steering guard and window mesh now fitted. I made the mesh guard myself and am very happy with the result The steering guard came from CCS Components and is very well made. You need to remove the metal bar that the lower part of the front bumper is attached to, and the lashing eye. I also cut away most of the middle of the front bumper att the bottom. It had cracked anyway and this also made accessing the recovery points easier. I think that I will be drilling some 2" holes in it to lighten it a bit and allow for water/mud to escape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas4x4 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Nice job on the window mesh! Where do you get the mesh from? Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Thanks Tom. Got the mesh from here: http://www.metals4u.co.uk/products.asp?Cat_ID=133 I've enough spare for rear light guards and side window grilles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hebog Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Hi all, thought I'd post pics of the steering guard and window mesh now fitted.I made the mesh guard myself and am very happy with the result The steering guard came from CCS Components and is very well made. You need to remove the metal bar that the lower part of the front bumper is attached to, and the lashing eye. I also cut away most of the middle of the front bumper att the bottom. It had cracked anyway and this also made accessing the recovery points easier. I think that I will be drilling some 2" holes in it to lighten it a bit and allow for water/mud to escape. How do you clean the window with that on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 How do you clean the window with that on it? Say what It's not often I clean the rear window, it's a commercial and I can't see much out of the back most times anyway! But if I did get the inclination to clean it I'd either spray some window cleaner on it then rinse with a hose, or remove the bottom p clips and swing the mesh upwards. Easy enough. Will get done every 6 months perhaps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 Here's another addition... Made from 2mm ally. We need to decide on the layout but it will have a table/box for the stove I think (if I can get the ally folded), and a smaller shelf to the side for cups and stuff. I've got to play with some scraps and see how they fold with a bit of heat and a hammer otherwise it will just be a flat fold out table Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Just updating this thread now I have a table fitted. I decided to fit it higher up on the rear door for several reasons: 1) I can sit on the bumper and my legs will be under it. 2) Any space left above would be wasted due to heat from the stove. 3) This gives room beneath for the original door pocket to be refitted if I decide. There will eventually be a small cargo net fitted to the underside of the table also, for the stove and a fuel bottle to live in. It does the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 Well I have been busy. In no particular order here are a few more additions to my D2. I'm getting there, very slowly. Not helped by the fact that as I tick off one job I add a dozen more! Flexible map light Reflective tap (for safety on country lanes etc) Rear worklight Leisure battery Split charge system (voltage sensing relay) I'm happy with how it is coming together. I've also fitted some Disco 1 mudflaps to the rear. A straight forward job and they fit really well. Much more flexible and larger than the originals (that got ripped off in the first week!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ7893 Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I got a feeling there a new project coming on at my end! I going to have to stop reading your projects as I get the itchy fingers to do thing on the Disco lol and it not even MOTed yet!! going to get that done this month just a couple of things to sort out then I will get to play with the 300tdi Your all doing great and practical things. I'm Training to be a landscape and wildlife photography so I'm to be adding a roof rack so I can get high up if needed also drive hard to reach places, Hence the reason I'm after the discovery, Very practical on road for comfort, very good off road (after I have had training off road first Or I would be a laughing stock lol) I will start a new post before I get shouted for hijacking a post love the rear mesh! ........JJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Rear worklight M&S, I'm *very* keen to get a worklight like urs installed on my D2. I do have a couple of questions: 1. Did you have to drill into the body to fit this worklight? 2. Did you fit the on/off switch on the dashboard or is it on the light itself? My D2 has an off-road bumper, so at the moment I don't have a reverse light. My plan is to install the worklight with a dash-mounted switch and also use it as the reverse light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Looks to me like the mount is one from a CB aerial (gutter mount) and the wire runs into the back of the vehicle past the rear door seal. My choice would be to drill a hole, insert a grommet, then pop the wire through from the inside. A bit of silicone sealant would make it watertight... If you come below the gutter line with the hole, there will be less water getting onto it and the panel is also double skinned, so you can reach up from the rear light and run the cable along the underside of the vehicle, rather than inside behind all of the trim. IIRC, it's quite easy to find the switches that fit the instrument panel surround, so you could quite easily add one with a vaguely correct logo, or pop a hole in the dash for a normal push/toggle switch and away you go... Just extend the wires up from the reverse light and wire the lamp in paralell (I think, but I'm no expert) so that it will come on with the reverse light, or with the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 Yup, it is a CB gutter mount, cost £5 which I was happy with. And yes, the cable does frun through the door seal. I wasn't sure about this but it seems the "done thing" and to be honest, now its in place, I don't see it as a problem. It would be easy enough to drill a hole as well and I might do this in the future if needed. I've used a twin core cable (so it has 2 lots of insulation) for the section running from the light through the door. I've removed the plastic trim in the rear quarters. I earthed the light just inside the door (by the skylight) and passed a single cable behind the roof linging, across to the drivers side, along the rooflining, down the interiopr A pillar (that trim pops off easily). It then goes behind the dash (beneath the steering wheel) and will be wired to a switch that I have on order. The live is from the leisure battery, but I'm sure you could take it from another suitable source behind there (the clock live is my favourite The switch I have ordered is an original hazard warning switch that will drop in below the existing hazard warning switch (I have a blank there at the moment, but some have the fuel filler flap button here?). Stephanie is going to paint it with our own symbol Just a note when choosing a switch, it needs to be a latching switch, not a momentary. So that's the hazard warning, HDC or cruise control switch if you wanted to wire it up to the instrument console. Otherwise you'll need to find a latching relay. Hope this helps. Martin. PS - The worklight is the Wipac square light, the only one that I could find that would fit without hanging out in the line of branches etc (this was well tested on Sunday!). Also, in case like me you didn't know, the light doesn't come with a bulb It's a H3 55W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 sho' left for the instructions M&S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Martin, Looks like a tidy modifcation. My paranoid side has a little concern about your intended wiring plan... You don't mention either relays or fuses... with 55W at 12V you will be drawing just under 5A. I don't know what the factory switches are rated for, but I would still be inclined to use a relay on the main live. Pulling the lamp power from the clock is def not a good idea tho! Can I also assume there is a fuse in the supply line, nice and close to the battery? 'scuse the paranoya, I don't want to teach you to suck eggs, but I would have to see your truck go up in flames as a result... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.t Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Just be careful with your circuit loadings... ... 55W is 55/12 is 4.6A... Clock wiring may not be spec'd for higher currents... EDIT:.. HAHA to Slow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 Of course, you are both correct Sorry. (I got confused whilst writing it, I had momentary switches and latching relays on my mind and if this were the case I had planned to take a live from the clock, just for thr momentary switching of the relay). Speaking of switches, mine just arrived so it's all wired in and working now B) I can't remember where, but I did trawl around a lot on the web and from a manufacturer of switches site found these had a rating of 5A. I've done a proper job of it. In trying to keep it brief I missed out a few bits...I should have mentioned that I have a 4 way fuse box under the dash (there's loads of room around the steering column). There is a 30A main cable coming in from the leisure battery to the this fuse box. This main is fused at the leisure battery. From the fuse box there is a wire to the switch, and then this continues on to the worklight. A 5A fuse is fitted in the fuse box. My CB is also wired into this fuse box with a 5A fuse, but also has a 3A in-line fuse at the CB. Phew, think that's covered it Thanks for the concern (advice is always appreciated) and sorry for misleading anyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 And finally, a battery voltmeter for keeping an eye on the system. Position 1 is main battery, centre is off, position 2 is leisure battery. And teh green matches teh rest of the dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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