Muddylandy Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Hi Guys Took the old 110 for its MOT this morning and on the way back the damn thing lost it's drive, it makes a few juddering noises and tries to move with no real sucess. It made no sudden bangs or anything just refused to go as I was pulling out of a junction. Diff lock gives me forward and reverse again. I have established that rear drive is working and the front has failed. Any ideas or suggestions would be gratefully received and will I damage it further by usung in this "two wheel drive mode". winch last week, wheel bearing advice at mot and now this, I love landrovers Cheers Chaps Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 I have established that rear drive is working and the front has failed. How? just checking... Yes, prolonged driving in 2wd will put more load on whchever half of the drive train is still working. If it is the front, you're looking at either of the CVs, or the diff. It's also worth checking that the splines on the hub cap & CV shaft haven't failed on either side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddylandy Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 How? just checking...Yes, prolonged driving in 2wd will put more load on whchever half of the drive train is still working. If it is the front, you're looking at either of the CVs, or the diff. It's also worth checking that the splines on the hub cap & CV shaft haven't failed on either side. Hi I established it was front failure as mot man is a mate so I had the chance to pop the ol girl on the ramp as it failed about 5 mins after the mot, I blamed him for wiggling the wheels and the like during the test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Diff, half shafts, CV or drive flanges. Starting at the outside it should become fairly obvious To reduce possibility of damage disconnect the front prop when using it in "2 wheel drive get me home mode" but beware if its a CV or diff it could catastrophically get worse through use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Yes, broken bits of diff or CV are very likely to wedge themselves and cause the wheels to lock up - definitely don't continue to drive regardless without investigation and repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 We had a quick look and listen this evening.... With difflock disengaged, the prop spins, no noise apart from the gears turning over in the transfer box.... Nothing shaking or vibration to be felt at the hubs... Looks like Mark will be pulling the drive flanges off tomorrow / Monday... Fingers crossed he doesn't have to go too far in to find the issue. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doda456 Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Have you not tried jacking up each corner and trying to spin the wheel? If it spins you found the problem, If both wheels spin its the diff, Hopefully this way you will only have to take off one hub, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddylandy Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Have you not tried jacking up each corner and trying to spin the wheel? If it spins you found the problem, If both wheels spin its the diff,Hopefully this way you will only have to take off one hub, Dan Hi Dan Good idea I'll try it tommorrow Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 I'm not so sure...... When you do the wheel jacking and spinning, have the difflock still engaged... The prop will not be able to spin and the diff will have to spin internally for the wheel to spin. But if the flanges are shot, the prop will still stay still because it can't move, the wheel will spin and you may diagnose the diff is spinning as well.... If difflock not engaged, the prop will spin indicating the diff is working, drive shaft intact and the flange/cv etc. still making enough contact to spin the diff, but under no real load...... So Mark will still probably end up having to check the flanges or potentially deeper manually just to prove any diagnosis..... Or have I not though this through properly ? Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 no, I agree with you Neil, spinning the wheels by hand doesn't prove anything. You might as well crack on and start stripping it down, that the sure way to find what's broken! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Cheers Luke.... Lets see what the drive flanges are like before we speculate further... Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddylandy Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 no, I agree with you Neil, spinning the wheels by hand doesn't prove anything.You might as well crack on and start stripping it down, that the sure way to find what's broken! out with the socket set then, thanks for your thoughts guys. I'll let you know the results as and when. Regards Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 I'm not so sure......When you do the wheel jacking and spinning, have the difflock still engaged... The prop will not be able to spin and the diff will have to spin internally for the wheel to spin. But if the flanges are shot, the prop will still stay still because it can't move, the wheel will spin and you may diagnose the diff is spinning as well.... If difflock not engaged, the prop will spin indicating the diff is working, drive shaft intact and the flange/cv etc. still making enough contact to spin the diff, but under no real load...... So Mark will still probably end up having to check the flanges or potentially deeper manually just to prove any diagnosis..... Or have I not though this through properly ? Neil correct but still think it can be helpful if trying to find the corner as if its a CV or broken shaft you will probably hear/feel it through the wheel when you spin the respective wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddylandy Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Had flange caps off this morning and shafts are not turning in the flanges so guess it's deeper trouble.is this really a get it on a proper ramp job or a drive way job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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