stuck Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Hi all, Just picked up a 4.6, obviously I'm going to strip it before I spend any £ on it. Assuming the block is in good condition are there any bits I should look at upgrading while it's in bits? Many thanks, Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Oil pump, water pump, depending on inspection cams tappets and rockers. then chip it and get the fueling correct. The main problem with 4.6 is they are HEAVILY restricted induction wise. so get your or buy some heads that have had some work done! unleash the true power of the 4.6! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 Oil pump, water pump, depending on inspection cams tappets and rockers. then chip it and get the fueling correct. Thanks for that, Going to squirt it (assuming the kit I bought from Fridge for my 3.5 will be compatable! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Thanks for that,Going to squirt it (assuming the kit I bought from Fridge for my 3.5 will be compatable! ) at a guess and only a guess it will need a remap.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 at a guess and only a guess it will need a remap.... But I can do that myself right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 But I can do that myself right? Yes you can but I believe Mr FF runs a 4.6 himself so all the maps you could want are there for the asking. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 Yes you can but I believe Mr FF runs a 4.6 himself so all the maps you could want are there for the asking.Steve Thanks for that Steve, FF: do you have maps for a 4.6 mated to a '88 ZF box? (assuming the bloody things will mate together ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 A lot depends how you're going about the whole thing and what you've got. First off the stripping & checking etc.: I would be inclined to stick to genuine parts for most bits, composite gaskets, if you are doing it then upgrade to duplex timing chain & metal gears (£50-£100 ish last time I looked) and rubber rocker cover gaskets, ARP head studs are a nice thing too but not essential. Real Steel are the boys for all the bits you need. If you're keeping the 4.6 front end and top end then I'm not aware of anything that goes wrong although I am ready to be corrected on that. Personally given the price of ported heads and other bling bits etc. I really wouldn't bother, the £ per BHP is just not worth it and you really won't be short on power or torque. The mapping / tuning: Yes of course you can use the MS kit on it, that's the whole point of MS my map will give you a good starting point (IE it should start, run, and drive absolutely fine), although the fact yours is auto will mean the final map will work out slightly differently all you should really have to do is datalogging and some fine adjustments to suit what you want. I don't know if Nige kept a map from V890_Jon's 90 as that is a 4.6 on a ZF auto. Nige? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 I don't know if Nige kept a map from V890_Jon's 90 as that is a 4.6 on a ZF auto. Nige? Oh yeah, .............. just before the BHP went 'up' and blew Jons Autobox 'apart' Yessireeee (and a very different MSQ VE MAp to when we had a stab at yours ...autos have a very different set of needs) Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 14, 2009 Author Share Posted March 14, 2009 Any chance of a copy Nige? Pretty please! Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 Right then, Block in bits so the first of a few questions I'm afraid I've read that any rover V8 that has done in excess of 75,000 miles should have the cam shaft bearings replaced, question is should I bother if all seems ok? (Maybe I should stop reading so much ) Thanks, Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Mike em up - and check the tolerances that will tell you Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 If you are going to tune this engine and get as many ponies as possible then you will be replacing the cam and its bearings. If you are just putting in a half decent replacement engine then leave well alone i.e. If it aint broke don't fix it. By all means inspect the cam and ensure one or more lobes are not worn but other than that just use the engine. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 Sorry to bother you again Gent's, Can anybody give me any tips on how to remove the P38 torque convertor please? Looking between the converter and starter ring gear I can see four bolt heads, assuming these are tightening some kind of taper lock how the hell do you undo them without turning the crank? Many thanks, Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 There is a clearance hole in the flywheel aligned with each of those bolt heads. Rotate the crank to bring one of the holes below the sump joint line. Use a normal socket (17mm I think) and ratchet through the hole and start to undo the bolt. The crank will turn until the side of the socket comes up against the sump rim. It can't then turn any further so you can undo the bolt. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 There is a clearance hole in the flywheel aligned with each of those bolt heads.Rotate the crank to bring one of the holes below the sump joint line. Use a normal socket (17mm I think) and ratchet through the hole and start to undo the bolt. The crank will turn until the side of the socket comes up against the sump rim. It can't then turn any further so you can undo the bolt. Steve Thanks for the reply Steve but that dosen't appear to be correct, the bolt heads are on the converter side and there aren't any holes in the ring gear. Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 Sorry for the shameless plea but: Help! I realy am stuck on this Gents, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Do you have a RAVE Workshop Manual? It's 'free', except for your time, as a download from Green Oval. You have to know, or find someone local who knows, how to convert an image to an operational CD. Then you copy all the contents, maintaining the directory structure, onto your hard drive. Create a Desktop shortcut pointing to Rave.exe in the root directory of the CD copy. In the RAVE Workshop manual you will see alternate methods of undoing the four bolts. Steve_d is writing about a 99MY-on gearbox, you have a pre-99MY gearbox. The difference you have found is just one of many that were introduced for the 99MY. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 Do you have a RAVE Workshop Manual?It's 'free', except for your time, as a download from Green Oval. You have to know, or find someone local who knows, how to convert an image to an operational CD. Then you copy all the contents, maintaining the directory structure, onto your hard drive. Create a Desktop shortcut pointing to Rave.exe in the root directory of the CD copy. In the RAVE Workshop manual you will see alternate methods of undoing the four bolts. Steve_d is writing about a 99MY-on gearbox, you have a pre-99MY gearbox. The difference you have found is just one of many that were introduced for the 99MY. HTH No I don't but thankyou very much for letting me know it exists! Will download it now. Cheers, Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Can anybody recomend a cam please that would be best matched to stage 2 heads? Would prefer the truck ('88 Auto) to remain driveable in traffic. Many thanks, Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 What Stage 2 heads.... from whom.... with what modifications ? Where do you want the power to kick in RPM wise...and for how many RPM ?? what other (if any mods) have you done to the engine Is the gearbox manual or auto ? All affect the cam choice / options Nige PS just spotted your auto, but which auto, trans box and tyre sizes ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Got the heads off today and it's looking too good to be true. Motor has supposedly done 95000 miles but I can't see any wear and can still see the honing in the bores! Would you expect to see that on a motor of that mileage or has it been rebuilt? (No sign of + 00x" on any components) Many thanks, Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 It may have had a glaze bust / hone rather than a rebore, this removes the lip that forms, often done if being re-ringed and done properly as then origibnal pistons used / no oversizing etc Pics may hellp Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share Posted April 3, 2009 It may have had a glaze bust / hone rather than a rebore, this removes the lip that forms, often done if being re-ringed and done properlyas then origibnal pistons used / no oversizing etc Pics may hellp Nige Cheers, Will post some pics later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 Block currently having a wash in my de-greasing tank, will post some pics when clean Thinking of going for the stump puller cam along with other minor mods, can anybody explain preload to me please? (Cam kit specifys that preload must be set, haven't bought the cam yet so forgive me if instructions are provided.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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