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Replacing a diff pan


Les Henson

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The axle in this thread is off a 110, but Series, Disco are the same method. Axle is off the vehicle and already stripped, and the diff pan I am fitting is a heavy duty item. Quite a bit of cutting/grinding to do this, and some careful welding to avoid leaks.

Axle casing is on the bench - wire brush or clean around the diff pan, then slice it off with a plasma blade or normal cutting disc. Because of the suspension brackets on the short side of the axle, a small amount has to be cut off from inside.

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Once the main bowl of the pan is off, you can clean-up and just weld the new pan in place. However, I decided to remove the rest of the pan lip and the original welding, so lots of grinding and then clean-up with a 60-grit flapwheel.

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There are cut-outs in the main casing that indicate the position of the crownwheel - they will only be just inside the lip of the new pan, so be careful to position the new pan correctly (and the right way up).

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Clamp the new pan in place (you will need a min 9-inch clamp), and check that it's seated against the housing nice and tight.

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Good clean earth point.

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I did a few practice welds to get the right setting on the MIG - the weld has to very good (or at least leak proof).

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It'll be very difficult to weld all the way round in one go, and if you stretch too far, then it's possible that the weld will become poor. I did this in 4-5" strips with an overlap between the end of the last weld and the start of the next one.

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A tidy up with an angle grinder/flap wheel will show up any pin holes. Don't grind off too much or the weld will become weak.

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That's it - bung it back together :)

Les.

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I bought two off of a forum member at the Sortout a while ago (can't remember who now). Just 'heavy duty diff pan' is all I can say.

Les.

I thought I recognised them! I bought them originally of simmonites.

Daan

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