Jump to content

Allmakes TD5 Fuel pump


Froggie
 Share

Recommended Posts

Does anyone have any experience of using the Allmakes fuel pump for a disco TD5 part no WFX000280

Its about half the price of the genuine land rover part, but not worth it if its going to give me twice as many problems.

Any thoughts anyone???

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all try to see if you actually can find one. The suppliers I know they keep their websites up to date list only the genuine version.

If you find one I'd suggest to get it under the reserve of returning it back. See if it has a VDO marking on it. The Siemens VDO code (I don't thing it will be written on it) is 228-226-004-001Z and the EAN code is 4103590933768. If no markings on it, return it back. Although I never heard of another manufacturer making this pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all try to see if you actually can find one. The suppliers I know they keep their websites up to date list only the genuine version.

If you find one I'd suggest to get it under the reserve of returning it back. See if it has a VDO marking on it. The Siemens VDO code (I don't thing it will be written on it) is 228-226-004-001Z and the EAN code is 4103590933768. If no markings on it, return it back. Although I never heard of another manufacturer making this pump.

These guys list both land rover and their own

http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/shop/.../2001/8/107/891

But for the sake of £70 - £80 its probably best to go for a LR one.

My only concern is that i dont want to pay £200 if it turns out not to be the pump !!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can do this:

- remove the carpet in the boot etc to reach for the pump;

- locate the connector having a thick white with purple stripe wire (WP) - this wire carries +12V to the electrical motor in the pump when the pump is supposed to run;

- disconnect the connector from the pump;

- test for +12V presence on the WP wire corresponding pin when you switch ON the ignition > if +12V is present then 'vehicle side' of the circuit is ok

- locate the corresponding pin on the pump (i.e the pin on the pump that corresponds the one on the removed connector which the WP connects to) - that is the pin corresponding to the electrical motor inside the pump.

- test for continuity between this later pin and ground - there should be a very small resistance if the motor is still ok > by the way it looks from previous posts, the pump will fail this test. EDIT: see posts 12 & 14

If the last test proves ok (i.e there is continuity), then get another wire from a known good +12V source on the vehicle, preferably fused, and connect it directly to that last pin which corresponds to the electrical motor (i.e connect the motor in the pump direct to +12V). The pump should start running and you'll be able to start the engine if the rest of the pump is still ok.

Then there could be a case of everything electrically ok, electrical motor buzzing in the pump, but no fuel pressure.

I won't get into that as yet. Do the above test first and we'll see after that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK here goes

11.50 Volts on the WP wire

No continuity between WP pin and ground

No resistance measurement tested between 200 ohms and 2M

The only resistance I got (why i did it I dont know) was 16ohms between the pins Green/Black & brown (on the pump)

Green/Black and brown 16ohms

Edited by BogMonster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK here goes

11.50 Volts on the WP wire

No continuity between WP pin and ground

No resistance measurement tested between 200 ohms and 2M

The only resistance I got (why i did it I dont know) was 16ohms between the pins Green/Black & brown (on the pump)

Green/Black and brown 16ohms

I guess not, and I presume I should by the genuine LR part

Link to comment
Share on other sites

- test for continuity between this later pin and ground - there should be a very small resistance if the motor is still ok > by the way it looks from previous posts, the pump will fail this test.

^^^ That is the phrase ^^^

It should have been:

- test for continuity between this later pin and the pin corresponding to the black wire (that goes to ground) - there should be a very small resistance if the motor is still ok > by the way it looks from previous posts, the pump will fail this test.

In other words:

- there's the WP wire that brings +12V to one side of the electric motor in the pump

- there's a black wire connecting the other side of the electric motor to ground

- you need to identify the pins on the pump corresponding to the WP and Black wire and, with the pump disconnected from the rest of electric circuit, test for continuity (very small resistance).

Don't worry for the other 2 wires/pins. They are for the fuel level potentiometer.

If you find that there's continuity between the pins on the pump corresponding to WP and Black wires then connect them to another, separate, wires to +12V (fused) and ground and see if the motor starts buzzing.

Sorry for the mistake :blush:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^ That is the phrase ^^^

It should have been:

- test for continuity between this later pin and the pin corresponding to the black wire (that goes to ground) - there should be a very small resistance if the motor is still ok > by the way it looks from previous posts, the pump will fail this test.

In other words:

- there's the WP wire that brings +12V to one side of the electric motor in the pump

- there's a black wire connecting the other side of the electric motor to ground

- you need to identify the pins on the pump corresponding to the WP and Black wire and, with the pump disconnected from the rest of electric circuit, test for continuity (very small resistance).

Don't worry for the other 2 wires/pins. They are for the fuel level potentiometer.

If you find that there's continuity between the pins on the pump corresponding to WP and Black wires then connect them to another, separate, wires to +12V (fused) and ground and see if the motor starts buzzing.

Sorry for the mistake :blush:

I think I actually did that, as that is how i found out about the 16ohm resistance on the other 2 pins

but i will check again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I realized the mistake an hour ago when I tested an antenna rotator system which has a similar arrangement with an electric motor and a potentiometer. While measuring the motor the phrase I wrote last night sprang to my mind and I realized I wrote something wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I realized the mistake an hour ago when I tested an antenna rotator system which has a similar arrangement with an electric motor and a potentiometer. While measuring the motor the phrase I wrote last night sprang to my mind and I realized I wrote something wrong.

I am 99.99999999999% certain it is the pump, but as i am not 100% and i cannot wait an extra day to buy a new one i am going to go to a breakers today and get a used one for £100, just incase it isnt the pump!!!

and before anyone says anything, my logic is screwed !!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am 99.99999999999% certain it is the pump, but as i am not 100% and i cannot wait an extra day to buy a new one i am going to go to a breakers today and get a used one for £100, just incase it isnt the pump!!!

and before anyone says anything, my logic is screwed !!!!

by the way what do you use the antenna rotar system for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can make 100% sure if you connect the pump directly to +12V and ground as above.

I strongly advise against a second hand pump. Better buy a non genuine (AllMakes) pump for £100 or so if you can't spend double for a genuine.

The antenna rotator is for turning a directional antenna. Widely used by radio amateurs (hamradio).

Edit: BogMonster, you're right, but make it past tense. I'm kind of retired from this hobby.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I strongly advise against a second hand pump. Better buy a non genuine (AllMakes) pump for £100 or so if you can't spend double for a genuine.

So do I as they are not a reliable part and putting one in that is already a few years old is a false economy unless it is about 10-20 quid not 100!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can make 100% sure if you connect the pump directly to +12V and ground as above.

I strongly advise against a second hand pump. Better buy a non genuine (AllMakes) pump for £100 or so if you can't spend double for a genuine.

The antenna rotator is for turning a directional antenna. Widely used by radio amateurs (hamradio).

Edit: BogMonster, you're right, but make it past tense. I'm kind of retired from this hobby.

tottaly off topic and i expect a beating but, When the wife will allow, that is the sort of thing I would like currently I spend most of my time mobile I have a slim jim and G5RV on the house

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool. If your wife won't approve the budget then you can always sell the LR, 'cause that's how much is gonna cost you a good setup :P

So you passed the intermediate test couple of weeks ago. Good luck with advanced test whenever that will be, by the way :)

Why didn't you tell you're fairly good with wires/ohmeters/alike, I could have explain it simpler. Well, at least this way it's easy to understand for other people, not that familiar with electrickery.

I suggest to delete the callsign from your message above (ask BogMoster to do it for you if you can't edit your message no more). It has been agreed on this forum that a certain degree of anonymity must be maintained in relation with LRs being stolen etc. It was very easy for me to find your full name, picture, address, .... I'm still working on your credit card PIN though :P (kidding).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am presuming you got it from the place with the photographs on..... god i hate having my picture taken.

Anyway i have opted for buying the genuine LR part £194 inc vat & delivery from a land rover dealer in exeter, no the fun part will be taking the old pump off.

I looked last night but it was dark, the clips, are they easy to get off, do they just pull or do you have to lever them off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy