ashtray Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 any ideas of why my window wont go up, it will pull up easily, motor turns ok and the teeth are visble on the regulator. Havnt taken the regulator out yet to look further just wondered if anyone knew of why it has failed. the motor got loaded full of grease a few months back when it started to squeak, could this be the cause? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Could be the console switch. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 switch is ok, motor turns freely both ways. When the window is going down it gets to its lowest most point and the motor carries on spinning freely until it times itself out after a set period. The motor is never under any load so something must be slipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 The motor has a small drive cog, which engages on a crescent-shaped toothed drive that's attached to the lifting mechanism on the bottom of the window glass? I think, that the crescent piece stops the window from being pulled down too far because it becomes flat after the last tooth, so it in effect jams. Perhaps the window is simply being allowed to go too far and the teeth are disengaging off the mechanism. Just a guess really, but it's what I would look at first. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 all the teeth are ok, so drive between the motor and its own gear must have been lost as the teeth are still in mesh. new motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 I don't know (wouldn'y have thought so if it runs in both directions ok. I would look at the mechansim first. Does the crescent travel an equal amount in either direction? there's not much more I can say without seeing it - sorry Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEILS4381 Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 any ideas of why my window wont go up, it will pull up easily, motor turns ok and the teeth are visble on the regulator. Havnt taken the regulator out yet to look further just wondered if anyone knew of why it has failed. the motor got loaded full of grease a few months back when it started to squeak, could this be the cause? HI had similar problem on my p38 it was the window regulator would go down but had to use the switch and give it a help in hand to come back up with a lot of clatering noise . will cost around £200 to fix through independent dealer or you might get the part of the bay for around £30/40 and do it your self looks quite straight forward this is apparently a common problem. hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davecrx Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 From what i'm getting is that the window goes down ok but is sluggish to go back up. Mine used to do this so i had taken the glass out a cleaned all the muck from around the edges of the windows and cleaned the channles the windows run up in. After that they worked fine. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 ok saturday afternoon im gonna remove the regulator and motor. im suspecting its gonna be an internal fault with the motor. I think having too much teflon grease has caused one of the internal gears of the motor to separate from its shaft. Thanks guys for all your opinions, i shall let you know what the fault is when its removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Turner Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Hi, Last year had a similar fault with mine. It went past the stop at the bottom and would not go up. Made lots of noise but no movement. Current fix is block of wood in bottom of door as stop until mechanism fails. So far had to replace both front mechanisms due to bending of weak metal. If motor runs one way then it should run the other as it only reverses polarity so switch is more likely cause, or sticking mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 motor turns both ways, and is always in contact with the regulator. The window will fall by itself over bumps, so this is why the window only goes down, its as if the gear on the motor is slipping on its spindle, or another type of internal fault. will add some pictures if i find anything strange on the weekend, if i get time though as going to sodbury sortout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 well looks like the window will be on hold for a while now. got bigger issues now. Driving around last night and the clutch pedal dropped to half its height, got progessively lower over about a mile of gearchanges and went straight to the floor and never came back up. Pumped the pedal a few times and its back up now but the pedal doesnt move. Managed to limp it back to work doing clutchless gearchanges... fun... Am guessing that the clutch fork is now holed? The clutch was replaced by the previous owner a couple of years back but obviously didnt have the fork changed. Could anyone correct me if these symptoms are leading to a replacement fork or other fault. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 Yep your fork is forked IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 cool cheers bog monster. gonna do it next weekend. not looking forward to it mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Weld a plate or large flat washer over the pivot point before fitting it. This is a very common problem. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 cheers les for the pictures. parts wise im gonna need to order a clutch kit ( might as well even though its only 2 years old) including the thrust bearing etc. a new fork, anything else i should change, crank rear oil seal? easy job with flywheel removed? Also whats the land rover book time, or rough time to replace clutch and fork with full use of a workshop and 2 poster ramp? with one person and help when needed if any weightlifting is required for the gearbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 You might get it done and dusted in 3-4hrs if you have a lift. You won't be able to support the transfer case though unless you put a beam across the plates of the ramp. Bear in mind that if the box rotates on a 300TDi Disco - it jams on the support framework inside the transmission tunnel and is a right pig to get upright again. You MUST keep the box level at all times. Do the crank seal if it's leaking, but otherwise leave well alone. If it needs to be replaced, then use genuine only - for some reason, a lot of after-market ones tend to leak. Older seals have a paper gasket, but newer ones are shim steel. Whichever gasket you use - also use rtv sealant too. Don't over-tighten the seal retaining bolts - they will distort the housing and cause it to leak. Clean the seal land with 1200 wet/dry - used wet with WD40 or thin oil, or use wire wool. The seal is supposed to be fitted dry, but I always put a film of grease on the lip of the seal and also the land. The seal should also come with a fitting cone already in place - make sure the cone fits over the end of the crank and then slide the seal over it. If you don't use the cone it's likely that the lip of the seal will flip or get damaged. Get both clips - thrust bearing and pushrod. Also put a cable tie on the end of the rod so that if you ever need to replace the slave - the rod won't come out with it (which is slightly annoying ) Coppaslip grease in the spigot bearing (replace it if it's worn), also on the thrust bearing slide, and the clutch lever pivot point. Check the slipper pads for wear - both on the outside ovality and also the hole in the centre of each one - they are only 80p each. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 fantastic information les. I have a few hydraulic 4-6ft jacks (or axle stands) at work, also i have an automatic gearbox cradle (flat base) that is adjustable and has a support chain, would this help in supporting the gearbox. am i right in saying that putting a hydraulic jack underneath both ends of the gearbox and rolling it back would be ok? or can it be left to sit partially in the crossmember? cheers les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 I just put a trolley jack under the handbrake drum and slide the whole lot back - the gearbox sits on the crossmember, so nothing is else needed. Fancy jacks are beyond my technology I'm afraid Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 oh right . Well hopefully it should make it a lot easier with all these fancy jacks. got news from paddocks today that AP (previously borg and beck) have gone into administration so i couldnt get hold of that clutch so they are now supplying me with a britpart HD unit, hoping its similar in quality! once again cheers les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 with a britpart HD unit, hoping its similar in quality! Sounds great Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 23, 2009 Author Share Posted May 23, 2009 well i've done the clutch and fork. What an epic!! 8 hours it took, not an easy job, definately not doing it on a discovery again, maybe on a defender but there just isnt the room at the top of the tunnel on a disco. One thing i noticed though during it, when unbolting the rear prop (with the gearbox sitting lower than normal fixed height, transfer box oil came out, and quite a lot of it, is this normal? cos there isnt really any coming out through the bottom of the handbrake drum. once again cheers les for your technical guide to doing a clutch change and for all your advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 Providing you didn't undo the drive flange nut, then no - oil shouldn't leak out regardless of prop angle or gearbox position. There must be play in the transfer case rear bearing for it to do what you describe. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 hmm, very strange, because i thought it would be filling the handbrake drum up before the little gap between the drum and the prop uj... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 3-places it can leak from - the shaft where it comes through the drive flange (there should be a sealing washer behind the nut to prevent this). The flange oil seal where it exits the transfer case rear housing (it would leak oil out through the handbrake/backplate or the backplate itself). Transfer case rear housing gasket failure. If the rear seal fails, there's supposed to be a drain to prevent oil from getting on the handbrake shoes. If the drain is clear, then oil comes out here - Guided by this plate on the inside. If the drain is blocked, then oil overflows and covers the shoes and drum, then leaks out of the bottom of the brake drum. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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