mpb Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 My otherhalf has a 1994 300TDi Defender 110 fitted with an R380 Gearbox. The clutch pedal has sunk to a couple of inches above the floor. There is still some travel on the pedel so the car is drivable. Back around christmas time I changed the slave & master cylinder & set it all up correctly. I fully bled the system, & it has been alright for a few months. Checked the fluid at the weekend & it's full to the top. In the few years she's had the car it has had 2 or 3 slave cylinders & a couple of master cylinders, I always fit lucas parts. The car had done about 60,000 miles so I think it is still on it's original clutch. There has always been a clunk, when changing gears as if something is sticking in the box. The car drives & tows alright it pulls like a train. Why do you think it's eating hydraulic clutch parts. Are the springs on the clutch getting tired & this causing the clunking. Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Pedal at the bottom is usually the hydraulic system/clutch operating system. A worn clutch bites higher up and eventually slips while up. Try replacing the fluid in the system to see if it makes any difference. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpb Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 Cheers Les ill give that a go. I've just remembered the clutch pedal also keeps sticking down & you have to flip the pedal back up with your toe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommac Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 not usre if related but worth mentioning- could it be to do with the clutch arm- they are prone to failure- ours failed last year- maybe yours is failing and the push rod is stuck? just a thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 On a 300TDi, if the pedal travel is excessive - the pedal return spring flips over the pivot point and will then hold the pedal down. If the fork pivot point punches through - the pedal usually goes rock solid, although I have come across the pedal staying down becasue the pushrod has fallen into the bellhousing - closely followed but the slave piston. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpb Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 I bled the system last night & this made no difference. So I took the cover plate off the top of the master cylinder. It turns out the two lock nuts had worked loose allowing to much movement on the master cylinder input shaft. Adjusted it all up & it seems a lot better. Cheers for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 make sure the pedal bottom edge is adjusted to 140mm from the bare floor plate, if not correct the clutch will slip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpb Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 make sure the pedal bottom edge is adjusted to 140mm from the bare floor plate, if not correct the clutch will slip. Cheers ill double check it at the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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