Rolly Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Put in a brand new starter motor today and the same problem is still there; turn the key and just get click click clickety click. There's plenty of battery power (I've got 3) and I've checked all the earths and the positives and wired everything up on the new starter the way it was before. When the problem first reared its head on Sunday the car started up fine, put it into drive and moved forward about a foot and the engine stopped. Went to re-start and just got the click click clickety click. Anyone got any ideas before my frustration turns nasty and I buy a *shudder* Toyota? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Put in a brand new starter motor today and the same problem is still there; turn the key and just get click click clickety click. There's plenty of battery power (I've got 3) and I've checked all the earths and the positives and wired everything up on the new starter the way it was before. When the problem first reared its head on Sunday the car started up fine, put it into drive and moved forward about a foot and the engine stopped. Went to re-start and just got the click click clickety click. Anyone got any ideas before my frustration turns nasty and I buy a *shudder* Toyota? OK, don't panic or start thrashing the car with a tree What we know: You are getting a feed to the starter (its making a noise). The clickety clack pattern suggests that either the voltage isn't very high or the voltage drops off under load, because as soon as the solenoid closes (clickety) the voltage it sees drops, so it opens again (clack). This could be (from the battery onwards) A flat battery or 3 (seems unlikely, but worth trying to charge one independant of the car, just to eliminate this) A bad connection to or a badly-broken-smegging-thick-red-wire from the battery to the solenoid, both of which could cause a high resistance under heavy load (visual inspection required) Bad solenoid / starter (very unlikely as its new, but just possible. can be tested using a good battery, jump leads and gloves) A bad connection or broken solenoid feed wire from the ignition switch A bad connection or broken earth connection (including a bad bit of chassis), but you've checked these. Did you check the battery to chassis / battery to transmission / engine to chassis ones? Remember that a multimeter uses a few milliamps, whereas the solenoid coil draws about 10A and the starter up to 300A. (you only need a resistance of 0.04 of an ohm to drop 12v at 300A) Keep us posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 The above is all useful stuff. Measure the voltage across the battery whilst you attempt to crank. If the voltage collapses to around 3-6v then your batteries have failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetDragster Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Now i had something similar on an old fiesta, everything pointed to the starting system, i changed batteries, starter motors, wiring etc and it still wouldn't start properly Until a friend of mine put a spanner on the crank and tried turning it by hand, and it was super tight, turned out a piston ring had wedged in the bore. I would try and turn your engine over by hand just to check its free and easy to turn Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 check/replace the starter relay too, if that's at fault then it may not be letting enough voltage through to the starter circuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I'd get a jump lead, connect it to a nice meaty bracket somewhere on the block, and then to the battery negative and see what happens. It sounds like a bad earth or bad feed wire to me. I had an old nova that did EXACTLY the same thing. Driving along and engine died. Trying to restart just made clicking. The earth strap was on its last legs and getting roasting when trying to start it. Jump lead from battery negative to block and she fired right up. New earth strap sorted it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolly Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 All Good replies, thankyou. Found that all my batteries were flat (?) so put the charger on overnight and the new starter is making the proper noises but its not turning the engine. I put a socket on the harmonic balancer yesterday but couldn't turn it but with it being 18 odd to 1 compression I figured it would be hard to move, should I be able to turn it manually? Maybe I have more serious problems of a hang my head and cry nature though there were no noises from the motor to indicate any major problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riverside Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Hi Rolly, You should be able to turn the engine on the front nut fairly easily, with a decent ratchet, there should be a lot of resistance every quarter turn, of course, but you shuld be able to ease it past this. Whenever I check my valve gaps I've never had a problem turning the engine by hand, without removing the glo plugs. No I'm not a contender for Britains strongest man, lol Cheers, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Did you check your starter ring gear when you took the old starter off? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolly Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 No I didn't check the ring gear, but I'll be pulling the starter off tomorrow to see if it's slipping and to see if I can move the flywheel. I'm thinking that the engine is seized though the reason why escapes me. It wasn't hot & there's plenty of oil and it had only been running about 20 seconds before it stopped. I will admit its done 318,500km or almost 200,000 miles, how much would you expect from the 300Tdi? Been looking around just in case, they make a nice 300Tdi motor here putting out 100kw (134HP) and 265NM of torque or I could go a standard reco motor and get the turbo upgrade for 130kw (170HP) & 305NM. But more power = more fuel & more heat so I'll see what happens. Either way I might have something interesting to post in the vehicle threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolly Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 Found the problem. My fuel filter is full of water. "Can I buy some hydraulic lock with my diesel please?". I was only just above idle when the motor stopped so things might'nt be too bad. I can drain the tank and blow out the lines etc but what's the best way to eliminate the water that's in the combustion chamber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Remove either the glow plugs or the injectors and turn the engine over on the starter and it'll squirt out. There would have to be a fair bit of water in there to prevent the crank from turning. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolly Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Remove either the glow plugs or the injectors and turn the engine over on the starter and it'll squirt out. There would have to be a fair bit of water in there to prevent the crank from turning.Les. Ta Les, I actually got about an 1/8th of a litre out of the fuel filter and the sedimentor so there's a bit in there. I've got the tank 1/2 out but I played up a bit last night and the only thing I'm interested in today is the couch. I'll get stuck into it again tomorrow and let everyone know how I got on. Cheers, Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolly Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 And the saga continues. To take the fuel tank out I have to take off the tow bar and to take off the tow bar I have to remove the bumper but the nuts welded onto the brackets that hold the bumper on have broken the welds so I can't take the bumper off without cutting holes in it to undo the bolts. I'm having an "I hate landrovers and all cars in general" moment. Actually, that moment has lasted about 8 days now and tomorrows not looking good either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 If you had that much water in the fuel, then I would have expected the engine to run very badly prior to it conking out. Clearing the tank, fuel lines, and lift pump is relatively straight forward, but the injector pump will have to be done as well, which isn't so easy. If there's water in it, then it has to be removed as soon as possible or the internals will corrode. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolly Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 If you had that much water in the fuel, then I would have expected the engine to run very badly prior to it conking out. Clearing the tank, fuel lines, and lift pump is relatively straight forward, but the injector pump will have to be done as well, which isn't so easy. If there's water in it, then it has to be removed as soon as possible or the internals will corrode.Les. The engine ran fine on the saturday but stopped in the garage sunday morning after 30 seconds or so. If the water in the tank came from the last fill-up it had only done about 1km till it stopped. I've got the tank out now (what fun that was) so I'll take it into work tomorrow and steam clean it inside and out and go from there. The injector pump sounds worrisome, I'll look at that first thing tomorrow afternoon. Cheers, Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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