pw8757 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 I have noticed that there is a metallic graunching noise when the starter operates. Am I correct in thinking this is the starter failing to withdraw effectively? Can it be fixed without having to remove it (ie lubricated in situ)? Is it just a case of reach for the wallet and phone a parts dealer or can the unit be repaired off the car? Thanks for any advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Depends on the exact noise but it could be - Bendix teeth flubbered - Ring gear teeth likewise - Both of the above - Bendix sticking and keeping the starter engaged for a few seconds Does it slip when trying to start or make a graunch after the engine has fired? If the latter, then its the fourth option - you can either buy a new starter or change the bendix in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 I think its the last option. How do I change the Bendix? Or will it be far less hassle just to buy a new starter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 You'd need to check first with a parts dealer and see if it is actually available as a separate part (nothing mentioned in the WSM about replacing the bendix drive, just the whole motor) but yes it will be less hassle to get a new motor as you can whip it off and stuff the new one on relatively quickly. You might of course find it is just a bit dry inside (water ingress/corrosion being one possibility) and a bit of lubrication and a clean up would sort it out, which might be irritating if you had just bought a new motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Thanks - Plan (a) - take off, lube and try............... Plan (b) - take off again and replace!! Great - another weekend with an excuse not to go shopping!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Some types of lube may be better than others - a grease will trap any dirt particles, and since you have bits of clutch plate (if manual) it would gum it up again, maybe fairly quickly. Not sure what I'd recommend, a graphite or lithium type dry lubricant rather than penetrating, Vaseline or similar. Lubricate the solenoid and bendix, since it could be either sticking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 Some types of lube may be better than others - a grease will trap any dirt particles, and since you have bits of clutch plate (if manual) it would gum it up again, maybe fairly quickly.Not sure what I'd recommend, a graphite or lithium type dry lubricant rather than penetrating, Vaseline or similar. Lubricate the solenoid and bendix, since it could be either sticking I've got some PTFE Spray that I use for my woodworking tools.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Just to keep people informed, I spent Saturday taking out the starter motor. There is a real joy to owning a Landy - on Saturday, it was the joy associated with wondering why two of the most inaccessible bolts on the vehicle are those selected to be Hex bolts, rather than standard. Mr Haynes gave a useful suggestion about using an Allen Key with a long socket over it to gives some extra leverage, but unfortunately the key shaft had just enough flexibility in it to foul the chassis before generating enough torque to free the bolt. After some time trying various other methods, a trip to the local Halfrods saw me the proud owner of some Hex Sockets, which, when used with all my extensions to reach from the top starter motor bolt to in front of the flywheel, let me apply the extra leverage from my telescopic bar. A sudden "crack" and the bolt started to rotate, so it was free a couple of minutes later. Tip for others - this approach may be better than the one in the Haynes manual - especially if the last person to fit the starter motor kindly used most of that year's production run of Loctite on the bolts! Now off to get a new starter!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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