Rusting bolts

[TheBeastie]

I have noticed quite a lot of the fixings I have added are rusting, and coming very unsightly as well despite being BZP high tensile bolts etc. Is this because I have been using fairly generic bolts from a well known online supplier of all things DIY etc (nice and cheap in boxes of 100 at a time), or is this just what you would expect?

I always thought it was all standard stuff. If it isn't, how do you identify a "good" bolt/nut with a thick layer of zinc galvanising on it that will withstand what the weather throws at it?

Once I have any answer looks like I might be in the market for a new range of nuts and bolts for a replacement job - groan!

[wozza35]

Stainless thats what you want ,toolstation do most sizes quite cheap

[hobson]

I got a mudstuff stainless kit which has everything apart from the rear door hinge pins, all bagged up with instructions, i thought it was great, and it looks a lot nicer too!

[ChrisM_110]

I always use Seascrew for my stainless, much better value than buying a kit, especially for low multiples of bolts. No relation/business links etc, just good quick service.

For example the twelve bolts nuts and washers for the rear door (in allen headed Button) came to £12.86. I am VAT registered though, so stuff like this should be £14.79 in real life. Still a shedload cheaper than the kits, if you're prepared to go through Microcat, and get the bolt length/type yourself. Obviously even cheaper for bulk buys.

Chandlers in general are a great source for stainless kit.

[errol209]

Chandlers in general are a great source for stainless kit.

As are your local Engineer's Suppliers, though some of the weirder stuff on a Landy will tax them a bit. Local places have the key advantage that you can take the bent / stripped / stretched / cut one in and they can do the autopsy for you.

[bishbosh]

First off, BZP is not galvanizing - it stands for "Bright Zinc Plate" and is applied in a very thin layer when you compare to galvanized bolts.

If you want galv'd bolts ask for "Spun Galvanized" although I expect you will struggle to get them from many places, particularly in the sort of sizes we use on LR's.

[TheBeastie]

Thanks for all responses. It sounds very much like I need to invest in stainless steel rather than my cheapskate BZP bolts! Perhaps one or two of the multi-part kits might be quite a good way to start. OK to go for A2 or should I go A4??

I did read about threads locking with time - would some copper grease before putting the nut on help?

Also do you need to use loads of plastic washers to try and cut down on corrosion issues?

[errol209]

Thanks for all responses. It sounds very much like I need to invest in stainless steel rather than my cheapskate BZP bolts! Perhaps one or two of the multi-part kits might be quite a good way to start. OK to go for A2 or should I go A4??

I did read about threads locking with time - would some copper grease before putting the nut on help?

Also do you need to use loads of plastic washers to try and cut down on corrosion issues?

Any two dissimilar metals in contact with each other in the presence of an electrolyte (like, say, rainwater) will corrode, because you are creating a tiny battery. Rather than add another metal (copper) into the equation, I went for saltwater-resistant marine grease, but you don't want to go greasing nylocs ...

Plastic (suggest hard nylon) washers will help a bit on the x-member to tub conections, but they really need to be between all the differing-metal interfaces (between the x-memeber and tub as well as under the bolt head and nut) to do maximum good.

I have used A2 all over.