darthdicky Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 My alternator is providing some charge, but not enough. At idle I get about 12v, mid revs about 13.5v and upto 14.4v near max revs. I've taken the brush pack off and one of the 'legs' is more worn than the other, but both move freely and it isn't all caked in mud. What is the likely cause, is the faulty part easily changeable and if so where might I get one? The alternator specialist I've used before is closed for the next 2 weeks so any suggestions of good places in the Sussex/Brighton area would be very useful. Failing that, where to get a new one at a good price? Cheers, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CURLY Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 i bought a new brush pack from ebay and it worked a treat, but mine was a standard alternator, if yours is something super duper or whatever, it might not be as cheap and easy to get hold of! HTH CURLY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 It's a 65amp Magnetti Marelli one from a Disco 200tdi, looks like the original actually as the date on it is 1992. Ideally want to fix it ASAP, not wait for postage etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 If it's putting out 14.4 at full revs, then it's capable of that at other revs too. It's the job of the regulator to keep the charge rate right, I'd be tempted to put a new regulator in first, assuming the belt is tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Is the regulator part of the brush pack (as it seems to be here)? If so I'll go in search of one of those... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguevogue Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Is the regulator part of the brush pack (as it seems to be here)? If so I'll go in search of one of those... Yes, if yours looks like that then I have a new one you can try. You where to find me on a work day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Cheers Nick, might take you up on that, however I've just found an old alternator in the garage which has the same brush pack and I've put those on and it's exactly the same. Could be that both are knackered (this one is quite worn), or would a tired battery also cause this sort of problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 or would a tired battery also cause this sort of problem? Possibly - what does the alternator put out when it isn't connected to the battery? (you need to give it 12V on the little brown / black wire whilst doing this - sorry!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Not sure if that's a little beyond my capabilities to be honest! Will try a new brush pack tomorrow and see if that does it, if not get the battery tested at a garage somewhere. Yet another question, what's good for coating the inside of the battery box? There's quite a bit of corrosion I want to stop, is waxoil type stuff okay? Don't want it reacting with the battery etc.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Yet another question, what's good for coating the inside of the battery box? There's quite a bit of corrosion I want to stop, is waxoil type stuff okay? Don't want it reacting with the battery etc.! You need something that sticks to metal, is resistant to strong acids and is tough as old boots. Sounds like Hammerite or POR-15 to me! Wash it all down with a mild solution of bicarbonate fo soda before you do anything, to make sure the acid is all off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 IMHO replace it with a new one. I had one where I replaced the brush pack, regulator and bearings in 6 months. OK it saved a few quid but I must have had the thing off at least 6 times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CURLY Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 check if you have 12v at the small wire on the alternator, and that your charge light comes on with the ignition. my landy had a similar problem a while back and it turned out that the charge light wire had broken, and it wasn't charging at all, and it took me 3 poxy alternators to work it out! thinking about it, my alternator only charges at 13.8v - 14v anyway.. where are you measuring the voltage? at the battery or the alternator? CURLY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Charge light comes on with the ignition and goes out when it's running. Putting a multimeter between that small wire and the alternator casing gives me 18v though - I guess this isn't quite right? With all the lights on the voltage from the alternator drops to about 11v between the big terminal and the casing. Was measuring it at the battery but it's the same from the alternator. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Thanks everyone, think I've solved it now, swapped the whole alternator for one I found in the garage - think it was taken off when the engine was swapped - and I'm getting 14.1v from the alternator at idle, woohoo! One thing solved, now it seems the next problem has shown itself in that the ignition switch has developed a spot between II and III so when you release the starter it dies unless you can get it to the right spot quick enough, I guess it's new ignition switch time? Oh happy days... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 You need something that sticks to metal, is resistant to strong acids and is tough as old boots. Yep, mix up some Wheetabix and water and leave to set for 24 hours. Nothing will shift that. Hammerite is not as good as it once was, as some of the chemicals for production are not legal to use now. I would visit the local auto paint factors, get them to put some brush on acid etch into a can for you. Scrub/sand/wire wheel back to shiny metal and brush the etch on, then a top coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Yep, mix up some Wheetabix and water and leave to set for 24 hours. Nothing will shift that. Hammerite is not as good as it once was, as some of the chemicals for production are not legal to use now. I would visit the local auto paint factors, get them to put some brush on acid etch into a can for you. Scrub/sand/wire wheel back to shiny metal and brush the etch on, then a top coat. Have a look at www.firwood.co.uk they do some good solvent based paints (non of this water based rubbish ) Have a look at http://www.firwood.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10601&storeId=10001&productId=36901&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=12268 Quote:- Recommended Use For use on surfaces likely to be exposed to weak/medium strength acids and alkalis. Also recommended for applications subject to a chemically laden atmosphere or in a coastal environment. Can be applied to both steel and concrete substrates. Hazard Information Flammable Irritant Dangerous for the environment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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