Upgrading P38 from basic spec

[v8bobber]

Hi all,

I have a P38 diesel which i am still very fond of, despite spending most of my weekend changing all the airsprings and shocks.

The RR is a "basic" 2.5 DT and to be honest, it's lack of electronic gadgetry is one of the reasons I bought it. However, I would like to put in a couple of extra things now, like a set of factory fog lights as I have seen some very near on ebay. However, this is not like the old 90 i had where you could whack a relay and old swtich in on the dashboard. I know it must be possible to retrofit stuff but am not sure how. Is the wiring loom already in place? Is it just a case of plugging the various bits in? I dont even know where the front fog light switch would go!

I have also been tempted to try and get the trip computer going but is this only available on auto models?

Hope someone can assist,

Dave

[David Sparkes]

From a strictly financial point of view an old standard manual 2.5DT is probably worth more as a £2k trade in than it is in it's own right, especially with worn out springs and compressor.

Upgrading it is not financially viable.

Once that has been accepted, and you are prepared to let comments containing words like 'sows ear' and 'silk purse' fly past without stooping low enough to answer them, we can look at the practical side of your activities.

You are doing this for pleasure, and part of that is learning about the technical intricacies of the vehicle. People will offer guidance, but that's all it is. If you want to avoid total frustration you need to teach yourself.

First step is to get a copy of the RAVE CD from the Green Oval site. Whenever a question occurs use it as a learning exercise and read the manuals, as you need to learn your way around them, and solving a problem is the best motivation.

For instance, your first step with the fog light question could be to look in the Owners Manual (it's on the CD), as this will show you where the switch is.

Next look at the accessory fitting instructions (they are on the CD) as these will give you clues about the alternative wiring schemes there were, from which you can find out which switch you need.

It is also a good simple self teach exercise in reading and understanding pictorial instructions. They aren't as easy as you might think, not if you want to pick up all the detail.

Next look at the ETM for the wiring diagram, understand the connector terminology, look at the pictures showing where the connectors are, then go and find them on the car, cross referring the wire colours to those on the wiring diagram to ensure you have found the connector you want.

Next read up how and when the lights come on, or won't come on. This might be in the BECM section, which despite being a box of electrical bits is most comprehensively described in the electrical section of the Workshp Manual, NOT the ETM.

You appreciate we have answered one of the questions, the wiring exists in the loom, BUT when you find the connectors look closely at the pins. In an old vehicle they will be corroded, and when you try to clean the pins they may snap off.

If you read everything you can find in the Manuals you will probably read that the lights need to be enabled in the BECM. This is a one-shot exercise, use it to find someone local who has an Autologic or`Rovacom gizmo who can do this for you. Or use it as an excuse to buy one for yourself.

Note there are two styles of fog lights. The early ones have all fluted glass, the later ones have a clear oval in the glass. Each light comes with two breather pipes to avoid condensation; all four pipes terminate at the level of the bonnet slam panel.

Trip Computer: Just using my memory I'm not sure what conditions have to be met, it probably depends on the BECM fitted, rather than the gearbox or engine. Sods Law means you need a later version than you have. Beware just dropping a second hand BECM in 'just to see', as the displayed mileage will default to the highest value of whatever is in the Instrument console AND the BECM.

HTH

You can of course install a complete overlaid system, with in-line fuses connected back to the battery or a fuse box terminal.

[geoffbeaumont]

I've a vague (so probably incorrect) idea that you can't fit the fog lights to the diesel due to the nearside aperture being used as an air intake for something (intercooler?). Check before you buy them - I would think the accessories fitting manual should tell your for definite.

From a strictly financial point of view an old standard manual 2.5DT is probably worth more as a £2k trade in than it is in it's own right, especially with worn out springs and compressor.

Since Dave has just sorted his springs out that might well be something of a slur on his vehicle He doesn't say what age and mileage it is, but even as a manual you could easily pay £3k for a really tidy early 2.5DT at the moment, especially if it's got a few desirable extras like a leather interior. I had to pay £3.6k for a fairly tidy N-reg with new air springs (but not compressor, as you'll see from my other posts!) a few months ago - automatic, but manuals were only going for about £500 less. That said, as it's not the first Land Rover Dave has tinkered with, I doubt he has any illusions about increasing it's value!

[v8bobber]

Thanks for that,

I will sit down and have a more indepth look at your reply when I get a chance. Unfortunately have the misfortunate to be working night shifts for the next few days.

I'm sorry to say that I really like the old P38. I purposely bought a fairly basic model as there is less to go wrong. It still has less that 80K miles and is only used for about 75 miles a week and occasional tow vehicle. I consider changing it sometimes but then would not find as much vehicle for the money.

I changed all the air springs and shocks last week and the compressor seems to be doing its job well. There is no rust, and the bodywork is excellent, so i may as well keep it i think.

I am in the process of building an 80" special at the moment so my "learning time" is being spent on that. I think I will set a relatively low reservce price in my head for buying the bits and keep them tucked away to sort out when I get chance. The MOT is due in a couple of months and do not want to put the lights in and not have them working.

I consider the P38 to be a real enthusiasts vehicle as you'd have to be totally smitten to own and run one!!

Thanks again

Dave

[v8bobber]

And here she is, cheeky little monkey...........

[David Sparkes]

I've a vague (so probably incorrect) idea that you can't fit the fog lights to the diesel due to the nearside aperture being used as an air intake for something (intercooler?).

Well remembered! If it was being used as an air duct, the giveaway is that the solid blanking plate is a grill.

It's used as a air intake for the oil cooler connected to the autobox. As I understand this example has a manual box he's OK.

Since Dave has just sorted his springs out that might well be something of a slur on his vehicle He doesn't say what age and mileage it is, but even as a manual you could easily pay £3k for a really tidy early 2.5DT at the moment, especially if it's got a few desirable extras like a leather interior. I had to pay £3.6k for a fairly tidy N-reg with new air springs (but not compressor, as you'll see from my other posts!) a few months ago - automatic, but manuals were only going for about £500 less. That said, as it's not the first Land Rover Dave has tinkered with, I doubt he has any illusions about increasing it's value!

Well that's interesting. I'd got the impression my '95 DT was as worthless as I've implied. Mind you, I did buy it 10 years ago, it's got about 175k miles on the clock, and I wouldn't say the bodywork is excellent. It does 'scrub up well' when I can be bothered to clean it, providing you don't stand too close.

Against those demerits it gains in other areas, IMHO, but the opinions of others probably differ.

Sorry, I don't intend to divert the thread.

I wasn't aware of the OP's history; I just based my reply on his post in this thread.

Cheers.

[geoffbeaumont]

Well that's interesting. I'd got the impression my '95 DT was as worthless as I've implied. Mind you, I did buy it 10 years ago, it's got about 175k miles on the clock, and I wouldn't say the bodywork is excellent. It does 'scrub up well' when I can be bothered to clean it, providing you don't stand too close.

Against those demerits it gains in other areas, IMHO, but the opinions of others probably differ.

Mine had 112k on the clock when I bought it and has immaculate paintwork and pretty good leather interior, if that's a guide to you. Also had 18" alloys (L322 ones, I've since worked out) and has been 'facelifted', which a lot of people seem to like - I couldn't care less and bought it on other merits. I would guess the mileage on yours would scare a lot of people off, even though it probably means most of the wear items have now been replaced, but I don't know exactly how much impact that would have on the price, and once mine reaches that sort of mileage I won't care either - I'll have had my moneys worth long before then.

As Dave says, they are still a lot of vehicle for the money!