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raptor dash fitted, got the switches, know what i want but have loads


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I have loads of questions...

Hi All,

My build has moved onto the interior now so as per the title my raptor dash is fitted (great bit of kit btw) and i've got enough switches to run the enterprise. I know what i want to achieve but need some advice please.

From searching the forum i've found out some of my questions but not all..

i want to fix a 12 way fuse block behind the seat (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/fuses/photo/5026.jpg) and from memory this needs a 100amp fuse from the battery.. is this ok? What size of cable will i need?

I'll then run the cables from the above into the carling switches in the dash fitted with multiconnects for easy removal.

I've not the budget for all the electrials bits now but i wanted to run everything now so that when i do have funds the cables are there.

what i want to power is:

2 x heated seats (do i need to run seperate cables for each seat or can 1 power feed do both?)

1 x heated mirrors

1 x fan switch

1 x roof bar lights

1 x rear wash wipe (replacing what is already there)

1 x cig lighter (replacing what is already there)

2 x 12v power sockets (just to power usual stuff)

2 x spare swtiches for future use.

CABLE and FUSE sizes???

is 1mm cable going to be ok for all of the above?

how do i work out what fuse rating i need for each item? is there is way of doing this without me having to ask a question each time?

Relays

i know that i need relays to power most of the above but i'm unsure as to which one (these will be mounted in the engine bay), i think it's R20B (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/relays/relays.php) is that correct? If so will this one do all of what i want or will i need different ones?

any suggestions on this part of my project would be great.

thanks again for the help guys.

Rick

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i'm sure an adult will be along shortly to advise on the wiring side of things, but i would suggest finding somewhere inside the cab for the relays, would simplify the wiring then, as you wouldn't have to run cables from inside the cab to the engine bay, and then back inside the cab to the switches etc....

Maybe a fuseboard on the bulkhead behind the seats somewhere....

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disco_al - from searching the archives it was suggested that the relays should be in the engine bay rather then the cab but i do agree. I plan to install a fuseboard behind the passenger seat anyway as per my first post.

santalars - thanks for that. will get my reading hat on. i understand and am happy with basic car electrics (rewired all the lights and can install a stereo etc etc) but really wanted piece of mind of the questions.

thanks again

Rick

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I have that same fusebox in my Defender behind the passenger seat. Details of my install can be found in this thread but essentially I used 16mm2 cable and a 100 amp fuse next to the battery. The fusebox is 100 amps per +ve supply bank, and 30 amps max. per circuit.

Edit: Added link

Edited by Retroanaconda
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Hi Rick,

simple formula for working out current rating for fusing -

Current in Amps (I) = Power (W) / Voltage (V)

Vehicle wiring Products state the current rating for each size of cable on line and in their catalogue, just make sure that all wiring/switchgear in a given circuit is rated for at least the anticipated current in it. Generally speaking the control side of relays will be fine in 1.0mm - it's the power side that you need to consider more carefully. Also try to keep all high power wiring runs as short as possible - less cable = less volt drop.

I'd put the relays where they are easy to get at - you don't want to be ripping the dash apart to fix things!

And you should really have an isolator between the battery and the fuse board (as close to the battery as possible).

Simples!

Dave.

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