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poohbear

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About poohbear

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  1. I ran a P38 on gas as a daily runner for two years - economy wise you are spot on the money. As for those pre-emptive jobs add these to the list: Blend motors Heater matrix o-rings Suspension solenoid block rebuild Suspension air compressor re-build 02 sensors Suspension height encoders Gearbox filter/fluid change And to add - make sure your key/alarm work properly, a new key will cost you an arm and a leg and you don't want to be fannying about with broken door microswitches and guessing the access code on a wet Tescos car park late at night. Oh, and invest in a decent bit of diagnostic kit. Dave.
  2. I once took an old vw beetle for an mot without a windscreen. The tester was very befuddled and couldn't find reference to it in the book. The wipers & washers worked fine! Dave.
  3. Holy thread revival Batman! I still have the sanden air-con compressor that I brought back in 2010 ready to start this project , it's sat in a box in the garage - Problem is I no longer have the project vehicle!
  4. Gearbox is really sensitive to voltage and the 'gearbox fault' message is often the first sign off bad battery or iffy grounds - Perhaps you have a bigger electrical gremlin and the fault message is a red herring?
  5. Stepper and throttle butterfly have no physical connection, infact idle air control happens outside of main throttle body. Throttle spindle passes right through body into TPS on far side - could be binding somehow in it's bearings but. I would think it more likely to be something in the linkage that the throttle cable works on. D.
  6. As long as the stored value is the same as the actual then that shouldn't be your issue. Do you have any air leaks around the intake/plenum? D.
  7. The stepper is the Idle Air Control Valve, these do have a tendancy to clog up over time - though this usually shows up as a poor idle, stalling in reverse not the other way round. If you have reset any values using nanocom then you may need to reset your Stored Throttle Closed value, there are threads about this on both this forum and rangerovers.net. Dave.
  8. Unless you are happy to maintain it yourself, aren't scared off by a reasonably complicated electrical system and can dedicate a few hours of maintenance a week, then I wouldn't use a P38 as a work vehicle. The mkII is not renound for it's reliability, though this is often down to previous owners not keeping up with regular (and exspensive) dealer servicing. Usual rules apply - find the lowest mileage you can with a verifiable service history and evidence of being looked after. Dave.
  9. on a GEMS set-up the cruise is vac controlled (pump is tucked between EAS & bulkhead). Pump drives a cable which attaches next to throttle cable on throttle body. It can easily be disconnected. Dave.
  10. How about replacing coil springs with air bags - like The P38 EAS. It would be a pretty straight forward swap, or look at the hot rod scene as they have some nifty hydraulic stuff. Dave.
  11. Off the top of my head: Immobiliser sync issues between becm & ecm. Odometer reading will sync with stored value in becm. Vehicle model/type differences - transmission, sunroof, fog lights etc. All these can be resolved with the right diagnostic kit - BBS nano or faultmate for example. Best - Dave.
  12. Doesn't a 4.6 have have a viscous coupled fan as standard? Dave.
  13. Hi Peter, Rotary coupler is a common fail point - easily checked with multimeter. Though another common SRS fail point is the under seat connector, which your model should have. Look for yellow wiring and connectors. There is also an inline resistor behind the centre console which can cause problems. The SRS brain is under the centre cubby box and bolted down with torx head bolts - this was fried on my SE. My 95 truck needed a diagnostic rese, to clear SRD light, later years will (should?) Automatically self test and reset. Cruise is a general weak point. Check for perished vacuum hoses and that the brake pedal switch is OK. Do you hear a relay click behind the steering wheel when you try to set cruise? Dave.
  14. The EVO will clear faults which will extinguish the light - however - this won't fix the problem causing the fault code. Most modules do some kind of self check on power-up and if a fault is found then a code will be generated and in certain circumstances a warning light turned on. If you don't fix the underlying problem then the SRS light will be back on in no time. I had an SRS fault when I bought my truck - fixed by replacing the SRS brain and resetting with my EVO. There is also an inline resistor low down in the loom behind the centre console that can cause problems. Dave.
  15. Evo will read abs & srs and clear codes. For each vehicle you need a software licence plus a diagnostic lead, can't remember exact costs but it's all on the BBS website. The evo will talk to - ECM ABS SRS Autobox Hvac BECM EAS the other cool thing the evo will do is read inputs and switch outputs - so it is really handy for checking switches and wiring as well as talking to individual modules
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