moony123 Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 evening all currently running 200tdiand a standard gearbox with overdrive which is not the best,running fine going in all gears just noisy on start of through the box, would i be able to put a 200tdi gearbox in my series what would it intail,shorter prop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 200 Tdi is the engine. The transmission has a completely separate designation. I would assume you are talking about using an LT77 or LT77S, which is the five-speed manual box normally associated with the 200Tdi. You would need the short bell housing model with the long stick, so it would have to come from a 90, 110 or Defender. You would also need the mating kit to connect it to the Series transfer box, which costs about £500. The engine would have to be moved forwards about 4" to accomodate the longer transmission. Fitting the later gear box and its LT230 transfer box is a very big job involving a lot of chassis alterations, custom props, diff swaps, speedo recallibration and using CV joints in the front axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 The bearings are starting to fail, it probably whines a lot, try removing the overdrive first, as that tends to die before the gearbox. Look at my build to get an idea of what it will involve chassis wise for both lt77 and lt230, but you basically need to move or modify all the central 3 x members. modified props, interior tunnel, handbrake system and other tiddley bits. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Fitting a later gearbox & transfer box (LT77 or R380, plus LT230) is not too bad although it's not a 5 minute job. Easiest thing is to learn to modulate your right foot so you don't break the thing in the 1st place, a 200TDi is not exactly a fire-breathing monster of an engine - Length of transmission: In an 88" you can run out of space for the larger box, you can save some space by making sure you have a Defender style short bellhousing (some RR/Disco boxes have very long bellhousings) and possibly even shifting the engine forward, if you trim the cowling from the back of the Series front panel you gain about 150mm of space in the engine bay. - Position of gearticks: You need a Defender gearbox to put the shifters in the correct place, RR/Disco boxes have the shifters about 30cm further back and you cannot swap the mechanisms unless you swap the whole back end of the gearbox. - The LT77 to series transfer box conversion is really not with it IMHO, you can buy a decent LT230 for £100, which is a stronger box and is available in different ratios. - Chassis alterations: I removed a couple of X-members and replaced the gearbox X-member with a Range Rover bolt-in type, put in the same position as a Range Rover one so the transmission & exhaust all sat as they would in a Range Rover. You need to weld a few tubes into the chassis to carry the bolts for the transmissions brackets (again, standard Range Rover bolt-on brackets). - Propshafts will be wrong but if you use the measuring stick and check the list of propshaft lengths in the tech archive you may find a standard prop or two that will fit. Or you can just modify or get custom ones. - Diff swaps are only required if you want the gearing to remain the same in high & low box. If you use the gear ratio calculator in the tech archive you can work out your ratios and choose an LT230 to suit, I run a 1.003:1 box because my axles are low ratio which means my road speed is good but my low range is much lower than standard, which is great. - Speedo recalibration is no big thing, the tech archive has a list of LT230 speedo drive gears and ratios so you may well find something that will work straight off, or you can fit an aftermarket speedo such as VDO or Acewell which you just set to suit your gearing. - Transmission tunnel: The levers will be different and in a different place, you can adapt Defender tunnel bits to fit or make something to suit. - CV joints in front axle: This is an urban myth. I know several people who run or have run LT230's in Series with UJ's in the front axles and there is no real issue. Apparently you can feel it slightly in the steering but aside rfom that you don't need to do anything. Personally (even though my axles have CV's) I wanted to retain so I fitted the RWD conversion kit from Ashcrofts and it's worked nicely.- Handbrake: Easiest to go to a Defender cable-operated one, does away with a lot of bits. Here's a shot of mine during the build, X-member cut out, chassis tubed for transmission bolts: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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