monkeyb0y Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Firstly, being a newbie here, i'd like to say "Hi all".... I was wondering if any of you guys could give me some advice on my project Disco - its a 96 - TDI300. I wish to replace the sills which are pretty rotten with some 100x60x3mm box section. Ive seen it done on here (superbly documented by Mr Orange) and beleive its definately the way to go. my first question is, regarding keeping it road legal, is there any potential issue with using non standard panels \ parts?...This area worries me a bit as i know testers do like to argue the toss over trivial stuff at times...(btw, i know requirements in general for welding, im asking about using box section as opposed to original \ like for like sills here... second question....are the front inner \ engine bay wheel arches MOT-able?... another question...i wish to replace these inner arches anyway with my own replica sections which ive made, but i need to weld right next to the baulhead inside the engine bay ( main wiring loom other side - inside passenger footwell).. I cant realy get the loom far enough away from the baukhead to be happy-ish that its safe from being burnt from the other side....anyone got any advice here?.....the metal ledge inside the engine bay in this area has rotted right back to the baulhead.... If anyone can lend some knowledge, i would be most thankfull..... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Welding the sills with box section isnt an issue, theres no requirement to replace them like for like, and most vehicles simply get plated up. I think the inner wings are MOTable, although i'm not quite sure under which category, perhaps they're within 30cm of a bodymounting or something? As for welding against the bulkhead, few years ago i was stitch welding the engine bay of a nova to strengthen the chassis, and didnt bother moving anything on the other side of the bulkhead. Ended up with a car full of smoke and me ripping the carpet up and extinguishing the smouldering insulation rapid style... If there are wires in the area the last thing you want is to melt them all together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobyone Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 the inner arches won't be a problem if you fab'd up like parts, as for welding them to b/head, get a wet towel and stick it up there and keep re wetting if required. however removing the dash and all wiring is obviously the correct way. if not a wet towel, you can get a fire blanket up there between the b/head and anything else. you may aswell remove the wings and repair the inner wings too, (they will probably need doing) and you may aswell check the boot floor too and do it all at the same time and save the hassle of follow up stuff. not teaching you to suck eggs, but be sure to make continuous welds on sills, as this will fail mot if not done correctly richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted December 5, 2009 Author Share Posted December 5, 2009 thanks for info guys.. ive had the carpet up and interestingly, the bootfloor looks very good except for a couple of holed 1 inch square pieces at the back end near the crossmember....i didnt know whether this would be a problem?..its only 5 seater so there are no seatbelt mountings or anything in the area..ill try and patch em without melting the fuel tank..... The inner wings as far as i can see look ok - the motor aint too bad (tempting fate)...just the passenger sill is a mess (which i knew when i brought it)... the biggest issue at the moment with the exception of the sill is the whiney gearbox which ive lived with for 6months - but ive got a pretty good sound sytem thats loud.... rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 there are some body to chassis mounts near the rear crossmember, so in theory any corrosion within 30cm of those could fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaDi90Hybrid Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Another issue for the boot floor holes is the possabilty of exhaust fumes getting into the vehicle, I was told that this is an MOT issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 On top of all the other good advice above, when welding anything more than a tiny bit I would: Buy the best mask I can afford (not much in my case!) Take the extra time and remove/move anything flammable - and that includes chipping off the sound deadening stuff. Remove all carpets and soft furnishings or they will get filthy and stink afterwards. When welding anywhere within 4ft of glass then make sure it is masked off - I did the footwell on my RRC and now I have hundreds of tiny black specks melted into the inside of the windscreen Have a fire extinguisher, a wet towel, a water hose and preferably an airline handy for extinguishing duties. If welding the sills when lying down under the car: Get a piece of thin plywood and make a pitched roof over your body for the blobs to roll off. You only need to set your crotch on fire once to realise the importance of good protection! Wear ear-plugs to prevent blobs going in your ears. Hope this helps. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 some good advice there that i never considered..... im just looking forward to getting started....but as im gonna be doing it in the "open air", im trying to wait for a decent weather window so im not dodging in and out of the rain. I have brought a new autodarkening (budget) mask which ive tried already - and it makes a big difference to the hand held original that i used before!. Ive also took the "hit" in the wallet region and rented an airproducts cylinder cos i dread to imagine how many disposables you could go thru for what ive gotta do cheers for advice again....i may try and take some pics when i eventually get started.. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 If you are welding outside with a Mig then you might find problems with your shield gas blowing off, although a gas like argon or argon mix will help reduce this. You will really need to make sure you have blocked off as many drafts as possible. As for catching molten blobs when welding,as well as all the advice before watch out for your pockets, and turn ups on your overalls. I have caught them in my pocket and that burns like hell but apparently it is really funny to watch as you struggle out from under the vehicle and then proceed to flail about with your welding mask and gloves still on while trying to get your trousers off (in the back street!!! ) or so my better half has told me. leaves a great hole in your skin mind, and sometimes leaves a bit of metal in there. Wouldn't like to think what would happen if it went in your ear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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