reggie Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Right I'm in the process of getting my rangie back up to scratch & on the road again. One of the main problems I'd like to correct is the vague steering, horrible sloppy feel & vibration that has got increasingly worse since the mods over the last couple of years. Since I've had it, its had a 2" lift, 2" bodylift & 37" tyres on 10x15 modulars with dyna beads & various other bits & bobs. I want to try & get it driving the best I can with the mods its got with a view to upgrading to stronger parts in the future like uprated CV's, shafts etc. Can't do it all now as its costs too much. What I don't want to do is waste cash on something that will require changing with future upgrades, I want to buy stuff that I keep & can add too. I'm getting some poly bushes & thought about fitting some castor correction arms at the same time but then read I need to fit a DC prop. That I can't afford at the moment so will arms make vibrations worse without the DC prop? Then there's the castor correction swivels that aren't cheap or easy to get but are they the best bet for giving me a nicer drive & will they last with 37s? Do I really need castor correction with a 2" suspension lift or do the 37s make it even worse? I do remember when I first got it the drive was fine, a few weeks later I fitted the 2" lift & 235/85/16s & it was all over the place on the motorway & didn't want to go over 60mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Personally I would go with the swivels or get the axle casing re-jigged. I don't like the bush or arm solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocksteady Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Hi there,I've got a RRC LSE on 35in tyres, 3in body and +3 springs. It also has QT arms on and DC shaft. A UJ went on the DC so I put the standard one back on and it's 100%. It will cruse at 80, had it upto 100 but you don't want to hit any bumps at that speed. For the caster correction arms, have a look at the Gwyn Lewis stuff, cheep and well tested. With the big tyres on everything has to be 100% or it will wobble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brookers Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 My experience with my RR fitted with a 2" lift and castor corrected arms was the standard prop was fine for normal use but when I added dislocation cones and let the suspension flex properly I found I was knocking the UJ's out of the prop. In the end I went for a Gwyn Lewis prop. It's not a DC but is wide angle and very good. It did spend a lot of time on axle twisters. First thing is make sure all your bushes, steering joints are in A1 condition. Have you checked the play in the steering box? I wouldn't bother with castor correction bushes, they don't have a good reputation. I also wouldn't bother with the adjustable panhard rod, I did and it didn't make any noticeable difference. HTH Brookers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 My experience with my RR fitted with a 2" lift and castor corrected arms was the standard prop was fine for normal use but when I added dislocation cones and let the suspension flex properly I found I was knocking the UJ's out of the prop. In the end I went for a Gwyn Lewis prop. It's not a DC but is wide angle and very good. It did spend a lot of time on axle twisters. First thing is make sure all your bushes, steering joints are in A1 condition. Have you checked the play in the steering box? I wouldn't bother with castor correction bushes, they don't have a good reputation. I also wouldn't bother with the adjustable panhard rod, I did and it didn't make any noticeable difference. HTH Brookers I have dislocation cones also. What is the difference between a wide angled & a DC prop, I have never looked at them before. Have also changed the steering box & have a better one fitted now. I'm doing the bushes as you know so hopefully that will make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocksteady Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Brookers is correct, since I have put the standard prop on, I have not been off road. Try the bushes, and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brookers Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 As I understand it, a DC prop is used for 2 reasons first is it will work at a wider angle than a standard prop. Usefull if your suspension has enougth flex to cause the yokes to bind. Secondly because of the "extra joint" it will reduce any vibration caused by running the standard prop at funny angles. This is normally only needed for 3"+ lifts. A wide angle prop will allow the prop to still work if your standard yokes bind. As far as i'm aware it will not cure any vibration issues. So is your prop causing vibration? To be honest with a 2" lift and a 2" body lift and 37"'s I would expect it to be a handfull even with every component in top condition. Does look very good though Brookers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 As I understand it, a DC prop is used for 2 reasons first is it will work at a wider angle than a standard prop. Usefull if your suspension has enougth flex to cause the yokes to bind. Secondly because of the "extra joint" it will reduce any vibration caused by running the standard prop at funny angles. This is normally only needed for 3"+ lifts. A wide angle prop will allow the prop to still work if your standard yokes bind. As far as i'm aware it will not cure any vibration issues. So is your prop causing vibration? To be honest with a 2" lift and a 2" body lift and 37"'s I would expect it to be a handfull even with every component in top condition. Does look very good though Brookers It is a bit of a handfull but very hard to tell whats causing vibration, it got worse when I fitted the wheel/tyres so I suspected it was wheel balance, fitted dyna beads & still the same. I don't really know how to tell whats causes half the problems, only by process of elimination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocksteady Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Just thinking of the balance, if you try some other wheels, known to be ok, it could eliminate part of the question. And for no money. As you say, it is a process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 If, once you have verified all bushes and steering components are A1, you are still unhappy, then go for swivels. Having said that, I was perfectly happy with a 2" lift. I suspect the 37" tyres may be the main source of your "vagueness". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 If, once you have verified all bushes and steering components are A1, you are still unhappy, then go for swivels. Having said that, I was perfectly happy with a 2" lift. I suspect the 37" tyres may be the main source of your "vagueness". May just fit the bushes for now & see. The vagueness was there even with the 32s but only noticable after the lift & fitting of the 32s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 Well I drove it yesterday on a run to the garage & boy do you have to concentrate! The misses was following me & asked when we got there "were you meaning to go all over the road?" You struggle to keep it in a straight line & braking is so unpredictable. I'm seriously thinking of fitting some castor correction arms after that drive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocksteady Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 If it's that bad, castor correction arms on there own will not be the answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 If it's that bad, castor correction arms on there own will not be the answer With some new poly bushes fitted & castor correction arms that should make a big improvment I would have thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 If you want to correct the caster then correct the caster (swivel housings) If you want to give your self inccreased prop angle (possibly more vibration) reduction of the available articulation of the prop shaft then fit "caster correction" arms. And personally I wouldn't fit poly bushes again, stick with OEM bushes, just make sure the ones you have are in good condition. With a 2" lift I would check your bushes and rod ends before anything else though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert francis Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 hi all my choice would be swivels, before arms, but arms are cheaper get +3degree arms i wouldnt poly bush if you wana offroad coz they stiffen everyting up, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted January 17, 2010 Author Share Posted January 17, 2010 Well I've just bought another rangie for spares with some QT castor correction arms, adjustable panhard rod, cranked rears, new set of super pro bushes & a Gwyn Lewis wide angled prop which I'll be fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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