Thorny Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 To cut a long story short, my 110 (300tdi) has got a poorly injection pump. I have aquired a used but good replacement part. I'll stand corrected but I believe that when the flywheel is is in the TDC position, it should be possible to inserta timing pin through the pump sprocket. The engine is now locked at TDC, but the replacement pump alignment seems incorrect in that there is no way that a timing pin can be inserted in it's current position. Q. How can I move the alignment of the pump to allow me to insert the locking pin (at the appropriate time) and fit it to the vehicle? I'm scared of forcing it and damaging the pump. I believe (from the book of lies) there is a locking screw on the pump, but I'm a little more than lost at this point! Whe I work out how, I'll add a few pictures. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) the pump locking screw is on the pump right hand side as you view from the rear, you should see just below the front flange right hand side bolt hole a 10mm hex head with a plate under it, slacken the screw/remove the keeper plate & retain for refitting later] turn the front pulley until you can screw in the locking screw & fit the FIP timing pin, hopefully it'll be in the right place 7 not 180 degrees out. Edited February 7, 2010 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 That's fantastic, thankyou. I've been looking in the wrong place for the screw!! I must also apologise, I've looked at this forum 100's of times in the past. I had never realised I'd not posted!! I looked at my post and it seemed very rude for a first post!! Sorry. Thanks again for the information. I too will hope it's not 180 degrees out. I assume this will cause untold damage if it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 no need to apologies, lots of members just read without posting [or lurking as it's know] on the flywheel there are 2 slots, a wide slot & a much narrower slot, check you've got the timing tool in the narrow slot, otherwise you'll never get the engine to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Doesnt it go a little further though? If the pump timing is out, you will not be able to lock the flywheel and insert the locking oin in the FIP at the same time. To adjust you lock the pump and insert the pin, then loosen the plate on the front of the FIP pulley and rotate the crank bolt gently (shoulnt need much hopefully) until the timing pin will engage in the flywheel. Wait for someone else to confirm that before follwing it, but i'm sure its something like that for the tdi engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Wish I'd posted earlier! Western, yes I found the 2 slots. I got wrong one first and the FIP was in the 5 O clock position and not the 11 O clock where it needs to be for it to be locked. It's in the 11 O clock now. Reb, the pump in question is a replacement pump and is off the vehicle at the moment. I was wanting to adjust it while it's off so that I can insert it in the correct position while the flywheel is currently locked. If I was to mount the new pump in the incorrect position for the pin, could I then use the method you explained to correct it? (or am I going into territory best avoided!!) Thanks for your help both, it's greatly apprechiated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 Got the replacement pump on the kitchen table. (don't tell Mrs Thorny!!) Even backing the locking screw off I still don't seem to be able to move the spindal (is that the correct term?) the 2 or 3mm needed to get the locking pin in. Looking like i will have to fit it and then try the method Reb suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 I've not tried turning mine by hand, but a suitable socket on the large central nut & breaker bar will turn the pump but DO NOT turn the pump backwards [anticlockwise] or you end up unscrewing the centre nut & give yourself a bigger problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outdoor Ed Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Ah! Very useful. I was round at Thorny's earlier and although we tried the stick some bolts in and use a big screwdriver as leverage method we couldn't get it to turn, so essentially we need more leverage is it supposed to be quite stiff? And I know Thorny will ask this, do we need to back off both the Hex head locking screw on the side near where it bolts on and the 12mm one on the rear of the pump, or will just the side one do? This thing is getting quite annoying and rather soul destroying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 undo the locking screw on the pumps right hand side near the mounting flange, don't undo any others. the pump shaft should turn in the normal clockwise direction & it'll feel lumpy as the cam/roller inside work over each other in the 4 positions that correspond to the injection ports hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 That is very useful information! Thanks. I've been working late tonight so no chance of getting out on the 110. We'll see what tomorrow afternoon brings. (If my 1 yr old daughter sleeps I might be able to grab an hour or so working on it!!) Need to double check I have the correct point on the flywheel locked for starters. I reckon it must be as the FIP U shaped hole was at 5 o' clock on the other slot. Early night tonight so that I can think straight!!! Thanks again for your help, as Ed says, this problem is getting beyond a joke now but hopefully closer to being resolved. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Photo, shows the correct FIP timing position with the timing pin fully located. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 Not much progress recently, family commitments getting in the way. I'll get out there at the weekend and report back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Update: Not good progress. Can't for the life of me get the crankshaft pully off. The 27mm bolt came out easy enough, but the pully!!! Tried both 2 and 3 leg gear pullers no go. Fabricated a puller with some box section 2 long M8 bolts and a 7mm socket (as described in the technical section on here I think) and I still can't shift it!! Do the holes in the pully go all the way through, or are they only recessed? Cheers Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I used tyre levers to get mine off 3 weeks ago, even then I had a huge fight with it. IIRC the threads are all the way though the crank damper, the pulley bolts on with 4 10mm hex head bolts to the crank damper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 Finally got the crankshaft off I can now get back on with the task of removing the cambelt and replacing the fuel injection pump. Talk about a job dragging on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 before unbolting the FIP from timing case. remove the rear mounting brackets & bolts remove the injector pipes as a set [they should be held with pipe clamps which space & position them for mating with injectors/FIP] Keep these absolutly clean inside & outside. discoonect fuel shutoff soleniod & tuck wire clear. remove the timing belt & pulley remove the 3 nuts [13mm] that secure the FIP to timing case rear face. carefully lift out of timing case/engine bay, don't let any grit/dust get in the injector pipe connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted February 22, 2010 Author Share Posted February 22, 2010 Thanks Western, that's reassurance that I'm on the right lines. I'm only getting an hour here and there to work on it due to family and work, but I'll keep plodding on with it! Thanks for the advice, very welcome! Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 You'll get it done, even if it does take a bit longer than you would like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorny Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 She runs!!!! Thanks to those who gave help and advice. I was starting to doubt that it would ever run again. She was put straight into work on her first run out on Saturday pulling tree stumps out of the ground! MoT next hurdle. Thanks again folks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 that's good to read, great feeling when everything comes together at the end isn't it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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