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WHICH HEAD UNIT


rooferboy03
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Hi all

Can anyone tell me which head unit was fitted in a 95N p38,There are 2 block connectors an 8 pin grey & a 10 pin pink.The original unit is no longer fitted and i wish to fit a new Blaupunkt head unit,so i need to know the original so i know which interface lead to purchase.The speaker system is the Harmon Karden variety.Any advice much appreciated as always.

Cheers RB

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Hi,

I suspect it was the Clarion Head Unit. The problem is that you have individual amps in the doors and the sub in the boot... This makes it tricky to hook up an aftermarket unit and you can't just do it via a set of crossover leads.

Do a search on here, myself and Geoff talked it through a while back. I detailed the solution I used but it might not suit you.

Sorry to have complicated the job :(

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Hi,

I suspect it was the Clarion Head Unit. The problem is that you have individual amps in the doors and the sub in the boot... This makes it tricky to hook up an aftermarket unit and you can't just do it via a set of crossover leads.

Do a search on here, myself and Geoff talked it through a while back. I detailed the solution I used but it might not suit you.

Sorry to have complicated the job :(

Thanks for reply

as far as i was aware you can buy the leads to connect an aftermarket unit to the existing wiring,and then buy a head unit specific patch lead to enable the use of steering wheel controls.I must admit that i wasn't aware of the issues with the door amps etc. RB

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You can on most cars, but the Range Rover system is slightly odd, in that the original head unit outputs were at a strange level somewhere between standard pre-amp out and speaker level. If you really do have the hi-line system* (I don't think it'll be Harmon Kardon in a '95 - at least they weren't badged as such until later - I don't know if Harmon Kardon had anything to do with the earlier version of the system), you need to make sure the inputs to the door amps and sub are at an appropriate level. I guess you might get away with just using a very low volume on the head unit, but that's at your own risk (to your ears/speakers/amps :)).

Plenty of P38s get advertised with claims that they have the Harmon Kardon system when they don't, either due to ignorance or dodginess on the part of the seller. The earlier hi-line system was much the same (same basic components), so if you have the earlier hi-line system it's still very good. If you have the mid-range system that doesn't have the door amps (or sub?) so you'll have no problem fitting an aftermarket head unit. Same with the low-line, but that is missing the mid-range speakers and sub so doesn't sound anywhere near as good.

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You can on most cars, but the Range Rover system is slightly odd, in that the original head unit outputs were at a strange level somewhere between standard pre-amp out and speaker level. If you really do have the hi-line system* (I don't think it'll be Harmon Kardon in a '95 - at least they weren't badged as such until later - I don't know if Harmon Kardon had anything to do with the earlier version of the system), you need to make sure the inputs to the door amps and sub are at an appropriate level. I guess you might get away with just using a very low volume on the head unit, but that's at your own risk (to your ears/speakers/amps :)).

Plenty of P38s get advertised with claims that they have the Harmon Kardon system when they don't, either due to ignorance or dodginess on the part of the seller. The earlier hi-line system was much the same (same basic components), so if you have the earlier hi-line system it's still very good. If you have the mid-range system that doesn't have the door amps (or sub?) so you'll have no problem fitting an aftermarket head unit. Same with the low-line, but that is missing the mid-range speakers and sub so doesn't sound anywhere near as good.

It is definately badged as a Harman Kardon set up and on inspection has got the amps fitted behind the door panels.I believe this to all be genuine and maybe bought as an added extra with the vehicle from new.The reason for this is that the previous owner bought the range rover as a company vehicle from new and no expense was spared(at main dealers) to keep it on the road,I don't imagine he was the type of person to tinker with the sound system.

Having said all that i am still no nearer a solution to fitting an aftermarket head unit.Do you think i should just purchase an original head unit and be done with it?

The guy i bought the leads from has confessed that they do not work with the Harman Kardon system and has promised a full refund,but he did not have an alternative either.

My main problem is that i do not have a great understanding of vehicle electrical systems so would need clear and precise instructions to follow in order to complete the task,If indeed there is a solution!!!

Thanks in anticipation RB

PS has anyone got an original clarion head unit for sale!

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Clicky to last discussion...

On one of the multiplugs, you will find twisted pairs of cables. These are to each of the door amps. There is also a grey cable which sends the "on" signal to the amps.

So, if you buy a head unit with phono outputs (round sockets) and four phono plugs, you can solder the pairs of twisted speaker cables to the phono plugs, the grey cable to the "remote out" wire on the head unit and Bobs your uncle! :D

Mine worked a treat, I didn't bother with the sub because the new head unit drove the speakers really well.

FYIW, I had taken the car to Halfrauds for a quote and they were adamant they could fit the head unit, their book even told them that... Wrong.

Disclaimer: In my opinion, mine sounded better than the HK system it replaced, However bearing in mind what Geoff has highlighted, you may not be of the same opinion!

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Clicky to last discussion...

On one of the multiplugs, you will find twisted pairs of cables. These are to each of the door amps. There is also a grey cable which sends the "on" signal to the amps.

So, if you buy a head unit with phono outputs (round sockets) and four phono plugs, you can solder the pairs of twisted speaker cables to the phono plugs, the grey cable to the "remote out" wire on the head unit and Bobs your uncle! :D

Mine worked a treat, I didn't bother with the sub because the new head unit drove the speakers really well.

FYIW, I had taken the car to Halfrauds for a quote and they were adamant they could fit the head unit, their book even told them that... Wrong.

Disclaimer: In my opinion, mine sounded better than the HK system it replaced, However bearing in mind what Geoff has highlighted, you may not be of the same opinion!

As a matter of interest which head unit did you use?or would reccomend.Are there any units with more than 2 sets of phono outputs and does the remote out operate the steering wheel controls?

Cheers RB

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I used an Alpine CDE 103BT... which has USB, IPod, Parrot, Bluetooth etc. It also has four phono ports.

"Remote out" just provides on/off. I didn't bother about the steering wheel buttons.

I probably wouldn't go for it again - I didn't find the controls and features intuuitive to use and spent ages getting it connected to my phone. The volume control is also very sensitive and a light push changes it to controling bass/treble etc so I was forever going to adjust the volume and then finding that I was changing the bass! - Guess you wouldn't have that problem if you get the steering wheel controls to work :P

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I'm in the process of fitting a JVC KD-R901 unit into mine after fitting the same one to Pam's 90 and being very impressed with it, especially the iPhone connectivity via bluetooth and the DAB unit.

Nexxia can provide just about everything you need to connect it up including adaptors for the steering controls and, if you haven't got the Alpine head unit, adaptors for the door amplifiers.

Lots of info on their web site...

http://www.nexxia.co.uk/

For an ex Clarion head unit with Harmon Kardon amplifiers )grey and pink connector blocks) you'll need either this lead...

http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=NX-PC3-09S

or this one...

http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=PC3-09

Depending on the number of outputs on your new unit. Note it has a PCB built into the leads that adjusts the levels to suit the door amplifiers.

One of these to adapt the aerial...

http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=PC5-27

This to fill the holes in the dash...

http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=FP-21-00

Then you'll need to decide if you want to maintain the steering wheel controls and buy the necessary cable/interface if you do.

HTH

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Thanks for replies so far.

I am now looking at a Kenwood KDC-6047U which has 3 pre out connections so i should be able to connect door amps as well as the sub woofer in the boot.

The amp in the head unit is slightly down on power as 4 x 30 which i presume would be no problem at all because i would be relying on the door amps and the amp in the rear to supply all the watts i need.Also i am led to believe that the the higher voltage from the preouts makes for a better sound as well.This unit is 4v preout ,but most are between 2-2.5.I also have decided to us the Nexxia PC3-09S lead which converts the pink 10 pin socket to phono leads to plug straight into the back of the new head unit.It is amazing what you can find out from doing endless hours of research over the internet.Cheers guys i love this place!! RB

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I'm not sure if standard pre-out will be high enough level - I don't have an original hi-line head unit, but the output is supposedly somewhere between a normal pre-out and straight to speaker, which might mean you end up with a very quiet system.

Don't suppose anyone has actually tried what rooferboy03 is planning and can offer any feedback?

Do you actually need any features the original system lacks? If not and if, as you say, you aren't into wiring, I'd probably save pain and potential expense and just get hold of an original head unit - just make sure it's the high line one or it won't have the right outputs.

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I'm not sure if standard pre-out will be high enough level - I don't have an original hi-line head unit, but the output is supposedly somewhere between a normal pre-out and straight to speaker, which might mean you end up with a very quiet system.

Don't suppose anyone has actually tried what rooferboy03 is planning and can offer any feedback?

Do you actually need any features the original system lacks? If not and if, as you say, you aren't into wiring, I'd probably save pain and potential expense and just get hold of an original head unit - just make sure it's the high line one or it won't have the right outputs.

Thanks Jeff

I've got no problem with putting an original head unit back in,it's the cost of one that is the problem.I did see one on ebay the other day which the guy was selling as spares or repairs for £15 + post believe it or not.The problem is there was no code ,so who knows if it's knicked or not.As a matter of interest can you have them re-coded?

What do you mean by normal pre out and high enough level.The unit i am considering has a 4v output which is twice as high as most units in the price range.from the research i have done i think the highest would be about 8v? does this sound about right?

It certainly would be good if someone else has done the same conversion though.

Cheers RB

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What do you mean by normal pre out and high enough level.The unit i am considering has a 4v output which is twice as high as most units in the price range.from the research i have done i think the highest would be about 8v? does this sound about right?

I think if you check it will be 4 and 8 ohms, not volts - this refers to the resistance of the speakers they are intended to drive (I'm not sure what, if any, relevance this would have if feeding the signal to the door amps). I was referring to the amplitude of the signal output.

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