5 fuses a day...LH indicator short??

[Lomenech]

Further to last postings, am reporting continued problems with electrics, obviously not cured by the new trailer socket as I had hoped. However, after an 800 mile trip of 15 blown fuses and hand signalling the length of the A1 I have narrowed it down to the LH indicator!

A brief re-cap for anyone still awake: post garage repair to the rear loom over a month ago we have, since the car came back experienced consistent blowing of the same fuse, Indicator/Hazards and Rear washer (3rd one along from top L for anyone with the same model/fuseboard as our 300tdi). This one also services the fuel & temp gauges too of course. I thought it might be something to do with the fact that after the rear loom repair the trailer electrics had been temporarily disconnected whilst we waited to put a new X member on. We had the car off the road for nearly a month but though we did get through the MOT, we soon discovered that the problem is still occurring.

I have downloaded the diagrams Western kindly sent through and the LR one someone else sent with all the coloured circuits (Fig. 44.1 Defender 97 Model year). I REALLY have tried to make sense of them I promise, but I can;t seem to get a grasp of of what wires go where on the actual car and where in the circuit the fuse-board comes in. Can anyone help me understand this so I can diagnose where in the circuit the problem is most likely occurring?

1. The wire starts at the indicator lever

2. travels to/through the HAZARDS SWITCH (?)

3. OR through the HEADER JOINT first(?)

4. Then to the FUSEBOX passenger compartment

What is the instrument pack? - this seems to contain the indicators circuit and the trailer lamp. What is the LAMP-SIDE REPEATER FRONT LH (A121)? Are the wires I need to look at the LAMP DIRECTION INDICATOR HAZARD WARNING FRONT & REAR LH (A117 & A118)? (bearing in mind, our fuse is only blowing when indicating on the LH side).

The fuse doesn't blow every time you indicate, but on a long journey the fuse seems to blow much more quickly after the car has been running for a couple of hours, to the extent a replacement fuse will blow every time you indicate and I wondered if it affected by things heating up?

If anyone can help me get a better idea about this I would be very grateful.

Thanks, Olivia

[FridgeFreezer]

I'd look closely at the garage's repair to the rear loom, especialy if it's still running inside the chassis rail as this is a good point for chafing. I have to say most garages are not the people I'd choose to work on car electrics, wires are a dark magic to them.

If you can post pictures so we can have a good laugh offer help and advice that would be good.

[errol209]

If anyone can help me get a better idea about this I would be very grateful.

If it is just the LH indicator, then it is only the wires coloured green with a red stripe you need to worry about.

The instrument pack is the collection of gauges with the speedo, fuel gauge, warning lights, etc. in it.

The electrical path is column switch -> branch to hazard switch, warnign light on dashboard and connector C287 9or 6, its a bit odd). from here it goes to the three indicators and the trailer socket.

[Lomenech]

I know most garages don;t want to touch electrics which is why we took it to someone who is meant to be very good, but unfortunately this has happened somehow. There is no way we could do the wiring ourselves, well, not as things stand, but I AM trying to learn more through experience. In answer to your query, they re-taped the loom on top of the chassis. They have agreed to take the car back (so I won;t start taking the loom apart, and apart from that we need it in one piece for now), but I thought it is better if I at least know what to look for, as they have insisted from the outset that it can't be to do with the repair...

What do you want pictures of? The mud casing on the bottom of the car? I will try and take some anyway when it comes back later.

Thanks, Olivia

I'd look closely at the garage's repair to the rear loom, especialy if it's still running inside the chassis rail as this is a good point for chafing. I have to say most garages are not the people I'd choose to work on car electrics, wires are a dark magic to them.

If you can post pictures so we can have a good laugh offer help and advice that would be good.

[Lomenech]

Thank you! Can I please double check that? (I hasten to add I am following this on the diagram, and NOT by taking the looms apart!):

1. Switch column (in the steering wheel?) S123 goes via C36-4, turns a corner onto C36-3 to

2. Switch Hazard (S121) then turns back onto C96-3 and C287-11 to

3. Header Joint & the 3 indicator circuits C287-12/13 & 14 then back onto

4. C287-11 then down to the instrument pack J100

Sorry, I have probably got that all wrong, I know it is not like a map, but that's the closest I can get by following the green and red on my diagram. C287-9 does not site on a green and red route, and I cannot work out where in all of that the circuit passes through the fusebox, and therefore where the short might be occurring. Now you will see why I am not doing the wiring myself! Thank you for your patience.

Olivia

If it is just the LH indicator, then it is only the wires coloured green with a red stripe you need to worry about.

The instrument pack is the collection of gauges with the speedo, fuel gauge, warning lights, etc. in it.

The electrical path is column switch -> branch to hazard switch, warnign light on dashboard and connector C287 9or 6, its a bit odd). from here it goes to the three indicators and the trailer socket.

[western]

Forget the '97 model year wiring info,you'll get even more confused bt looking for things that are not on your 110, it doesn't match your vehicle & earlier vehicles don't have headers like the later 300tDi on vehicles. e.mailed some more relevant diagrams for you to look at.