RR P38 BMW DIESEL AIR LOCK

[jd defender]

Hi everyone just a quick question I bought a p38 range rover 2.5dse with a blown engine, iv now changed the engine it stars and runs fine but after about 10 mins stood still idleing the temp gauge is nearly in the red and the red light comes on the heaters blow cold all the time, iv tried loads of things like changing the thermostat and trying to bleed air out the cooling system just as described in the rave manual to no avail.

Any ideas would be gratly appreciated

Regards John

[sheltie50]

Have you tried a hose to blow the system clear, if you do remember that mains water will be at a higher pressure that your engine is used to so try flow rather than pressure.

Does the engine want to boil or could the sensor be at fault.

[David Sparkes]

Study and understand the flow diagrams and descriptions in the Manual.

The heater matrix should always have hot coolant flowing through it. The fact you are getting cold air from the heater suggests no coolant is flowing through the matrix, although it could also indicate that both blend flaps are stuck on full cold (do you have the book symbol in the HEVAC display?). Physically check the temperature of the two heater pipes in the engine bay where they disappear into the bulkhead. If they are not at the same temperature as the rest of the cooling system you have an air lock. Take off the upper pipe of these two and bleed the air out.

Do you know why the previous engine blew?

Whether it's old or new, do you know the history of the radiator?

Are you certain the coolant is flowing correctly through the radiator, and not simply flowing straight from the inlet to the outlet because the centre baffle in the top rail is missing or misplaced?

Good Luck.

[jd defender]

Hi guys thanks for the replies, I have no idea why the previous engine blew. when I touch the pies going to the matrix the left hand pipe is hot and the right hand pipe is cooler stood in front of the engine looking towards the windscreen. I did manage to get some heat out of the heaters today but it was short lived about 1 minute then went cold again when the temp gauge gets up to the last white mark on the gauge I switched the engine off and I could hear what sounded like air/bubbles rushing around the top of the radiator plastic cap I don't think its the temp sender as it all feels very warm(you can hardly touch the pipe work) and there is no book symbol on the hvac unit.

I'm beginning to think its the radiator as I have now try to bleed it about 20 times as described in the rave manual to no avail

[davie1]

Hi guys thanks for the replies, I have no idea why the previous engine blew. when I touch the pies going to the matrix the left hand pipe is hot and the right hand pipe is cooler stood in front of the engine looking towards the windscreen. I did manage to get some heat out of the heaters today but it was short lived about 1 minute then went cold again when the temp gauge gets up to the last white mark on the gauge I switched the engine off and I could hear what sounded like air/bubbles rushing around the top of the radiator plastic cap I don't think its the temp sender as it all feels very warm(you can hardly touch the pipe work) and there is no book symbol on the hvac unit.

I'm beginning to think its the radiator as I have now try to bleed it about 20 times as described in the rave manual to no avail

[davie1]

Ok have you used a flush, how clean is the coolant after running, I would drop all the coolant, flush out the radiator,flush the block, refill, put the front up on ramps then run with the cap off for at least 20 mins keeping an eye on the level and the temp. This is a standard procedure for Pajero/Shogun so I would try it on the RR and see if it helps.

Let us know how you get on

Davie