Chassis Repair

[Spearos]

First off, a little bit of background. This is the first bit of welding I've done, minus a few hours practising prior to this. I'm completely self taught, so I'm hoping I didn't do too bad! I know that welding on a chassis is far from the best place to start but I couldn't resist

I was very relunctant to write this post but I think it would be good to know if I'm doing anything right It's clear (even to a complete novise like me) that it's very messy but I'm hoping tidiness will come with experience...

Here we go - I'm ready for criticism and of course some tiddle taking

Apologies for the dodgy pictures - a bit difficult to take pics with the LPG tank in the way!

[Steve Hiatt]

It'll look better with some thick chassis paint on. The second photo seems to show another developing hole adjacent to your plate. I've found it's better to put a decent sized plate on or you tend to find next year your plating right next to it.

[Spearos]

Cheers Steve, I take your point however there are quite a few patches on the cross member and legs already so the plan is fit a new cross member with extensions in the near future - this repair will (hopefully) get me through the MOT.

[Gazzar]

It isn't pretty, but as a first effort it does look like it will hold up better than the rust it replaced.

Some of it was upsidedown welding, wasn't it?

I am only now getting that to look neat.

It also looks like access was an issue too.

I'd say it looks like you got a good technique along the top of the patch, but the anti gravity stuff is very blobby.

DO you use an auto helmet? I find them very good. They allow you to "steer" the weld coming out of the nossle, and also to keep straight along the run.

Getting a good position is the key - and isn't always easy.

Being able to lie down and weld up in short bursts works for me, however you have to have very good protection from the molten metal that will dribble down on you: a leather apron would be a start point. You will also have to stop and clean out the nossle on the MIG every few minutes.

Try to do dry run the weld, with the correct movements, before doing it for real, this allows you to find any points you can't see, or can't get the torch to, before it counts.

If you dress up those welds with an angle grinder, and don't find any holes between the weld blobs, then I'd be happy enough with the job. As a beginner.

Then spray waxoil or similar allover it.

I find that i get better results if I weld a strip of metal BEHIND the edge of the hole all the way around in , and then cut the patch to fit into the hole, the strip makes a recessed lip and that allows me to use a higher speed and more power when welding, and I get a flatter weld as a result.

Other tips: having a washing up bottle full of water, and a spray bottle too, would be useful to catch any stray little fires. In addition to a proper fire extinguisher, of course.

Keep at it, I really enjoy welding, now that I've mastered the basics.

Hope this helps,

G.

[Spearos]

It isn't pretty, but as a first effort it does look like it will hold up better than the rust it replaced.

Some of it was upsidedown welding, wasn't it?

I am only now getting that to look neat.

It also looks like access was an issue too.

I'd say it looks like you got a good technique along the top of the patch, but the anti gravity stuff is very blobby.

DO you use an auto helmet? I find them very good. They allow you to "steer" the weld coming out of the nossle, and also to keep straight along the run.

Getting a good position is the key - and isn't always easy.

Being able to lie down and weld up in short bursts works for me, however you have to have very good protection from the molten metal that will dribble down on you: a leather apron would be a start point. You will also have to stop and clean out the nossle on the MIG every few minutes.

Try to do dry run the weld, with the correct movements, before doing it for real, this allows you to find any points you can't see, or can't get the torch to, before it counts.

If you dress up those welds with an angle grinder, and don't find any holes between the weld blobs, then I'd be happy enough with the job. As a beginner.

Then spray waxoil or similar allover it.

I find that i get better results if I weld a strip of metal BEHIND the edge of the hole all the way around in , and then cut the patch to fit into the hole, the strip makes a recessed lip and that allows me to use a higher speed and more power when welding, and I get a flatter weld as a result.

Other tips: having a washing up bottle full of water, and a spray bottle too, would be useful to catch any stray little fires. In addition to a proper fire extinguisher, of course.

Keep at it, I really enjoy welding, now that I've mastered the basics.

Hope this helps,

G.

Yes some of it was overhead, which I (evidently) struggled with! Access wasn't too much of a problem as I removed the LPG tank, however I agree being in a good position makes a big difference - I found the more comfortable I was the easier it was to control the torch movement. Good tip with doing a dry run before hand - I will give that a go next time, thanks.

I have a crappy flip down helmet so maybe that didn't help? As for H&S because this was my first time I had a fire extinguisher, leather apron, and a paint-balling balaclava on under the helmet (limited ear protection) - I'd read all about splatter in your lug hole and really didn't like the sound of that!

[Bowie69]

 I'd read all about splatter in your lug hole and really didn't like the sound of that!

Yeah, it sizzles like bacon in a pan

[Spearos]

Yeah, it sizzles like bacon in a pan

Seems as though bacon is mentioned a lot when it comes to welding I'm sure burning ear wax doesn't smell as nice as bacon though!!

I imagine it's a loud sizzling too being in your ear, when I was about 10 our puppy decided my ear would taste good and bit me. I can still remember actually hearing the skin 'rip'... and the consequent embarassment of going to school looking like a numpty with butterfly stiches across my ear!