Steve Hiatt

Hi, was good event and an interesting thread I've run a manual shift auto for years, has quite a bit going for it. If you want to go quicker then you really need to walk the course, I like to walk it twice, cheapest way to better results. Hope you keep enjoying it

This is a bit vague but I'm 90% sure that Setrab used M14 x 1.5 on a fan stat fitting I had many years ago. If my memory serves Volvo or Saab used that thread, probably a Swedish thing. Sorry not to be more specific but it was a while ago.

Nothing particularly to add, just to say I'm enjoying the thread

I change mine once a year, but I do have a standard production motor

Rob Was you who helped with the arrows at the end?

I've been looking into this as I have one. Some sturdy holders are available. I'll probably use google maps. You can download up to 70 MB of map in chunks for use off line. I'm not too interested in being navigated, just want to see a high detail map when I'm somewhere near.

I think the problem with choosing dampers is that it's very difficult to compare the different makes, and so much comes down to the installation and set up. This is further complicated by almost everyone swearing by the shocks that they have. I chose Ohlins for my current car for four reasons. They are made to order, so within the limits of packaging you can have whatever length and stroke you want. I had integral hydraulic bump stops which saved me a heap of fabrication, weight and expense. Thirdly they are click adjustable on compression and rebound allowing instant set up change. And finally the chap who supplied them, Ben from BG Motorsport at Silverstone, is a damper technician so you're dealing with someone who know what he's doing. Eight years on and I'm still happy. The only failure I've had was one bent shaft when a wishbone broke, which I think is acceptable. The rear dampers managed 5 years before having a service, so running costs have been low. I like that I have a set up that works well without me having to change shim stacks and top up gas every 5 minutes. Cost is difficult to qualify. On face value they're more but I managed to run single shocks on the front of my car where as Fox users of the same car use twins. In my experience the people who are successful with Fox shocks have been through at least 10 different shim combinations to get there.

When I first started I ran twin standard shocks all round, generally running the cheapest I could get hold of or take offs. The better ones didn't seem to last any better than cheaper ones. I then went to some decent remote reservoir shocks on the front when funds allowed and eventually the rear. There was one chap running the Terrafirma shocks last year in AWDC comps, not sure how he got on and he's sold the car now. Personally I'd keep an eye on ebay for some second hand Foxs, Ohlins or Kings rather than investing in relative unknowns. Varidamps from Milners are worth considering too. Decent dampers do make the world of difference.

I thoroughly enjoyed the show, a good balance of vendors. I did suffer a moral dilemma on leaving. A chap in a blinged up Twisted or similar 110 turned too tight on some Armco in the car park making quite a mess. Normally I'd have some sympathy but I couldn't help thinking the damage was far less than he already subjected the poor 110 to.

Caution, yes but bear in mind taking cards is expensive and a hassle, and not always necessary if you don't offer mail order. You can understand them not wanting to take cheques. Let's not forget it's perfectly legal to trade in cash and was the norm not so long ago.

I did the same thing on a Chevy some years ago, in that instance it was to get rid of the cast iron water pump. I had no problems.

Thanks Nige. I'm having a look Sunday. I've known the vehicle for some time but not taken much notice of it. He had the lockers fitted around 10 years ago and I'm sure they were sold to him as new. They've had minimal use but no maintainance, other than being stored in the dry.

I'm looking at a RR for breaking this weekend that has arb lockers front and rear. He says the rear is stuck in. Any idea what I could realise for these?

The SVA was introduced in @ 1998. Prior to that the DVLA would change the log book by post or inspection. If the body type hasn't been changed then neither is likely to have happened.

Hi Simon, I beleive the Sika solution to be the same as Vandex/Thoroseal/The cheaper Permagard product I linked to, so I think we're recommending the same solution. Sika prepack all elements of a system which leaves less margin for user error or the ability to charge more, depending on how cynical you are. I think in Nigel's situation he could just leave the tanking barrier uncovered as there is no significant hydrostatic pressure. For domestic sub terrainian situations I really like the Newton lath system, where practical. If nothing else it's relatively easy to repair. And to the OP, there will be no significant rising damp in an exposed 4" wall whether there is a damp course or not. It will evaporate before rising significantly.