110 Dom Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Hi I have a 2004 D2 TD5 that has recently developed a squeel. On idle the squeel is not there but when you rev up it starts. It sounds like a loose belt but from a quick check the belt seems tight and looks in very good shape. Could it be a bearing on one of the units that the belt turns? Is the belt straightforward to remove and replace? I am thinking it may be difficult to work out which unit is affected unless one pulley seems tight to rotate or perhaps wobbly if bearings have failed. Any hints or tips on how to remove the belt and diagnosing would be appreciated. Thanks Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
africanpete Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Dom Try putting some soapy water on the belt (liberally) and then rev the engine up as normal, if it's your belt this will help identify it as the squeal will stop for a short time. To change the belt you will need a viscous fan wrench set, these are available from places like difflock and the likes. A Haynes manual for the D2 will acurately describe the procedure and will come in usefull for other things as well. Make sure you buy the correct belt, with or without AC etc. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfhound Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Are you sure its not the famed exhaust manifold leak ? i recently removed the EGR from my 2000 TD5 and now have the same squeel, everyone says i now have a manifoold leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I changed the idler pulley, tensioner, belt and alternator and still got belt squeel. Actually now it's more like a squeek at start-up and shut-down so I just live with it now. Word of warning though, if you do change the belt and tensioner don't get Britpart, the belt cracked within a few hundred miles of fitting, and whilst still useable the original genuine belt looked in much better condition...in fact it's back on, so I'm driving around with a fan belt that has done over 140,000 miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I changed the idler pulley, tensioner, belt and alternator and still got belt squeel. Actually now it's more like a squeek at start-up and shut-down so I just live with it now. Word of warning though, if you do change the belt and tensioner don't get Britpart, the belt cracked within a few hundred miles of fitting, and whilst still useable the original genuine belt looked in much better condition...in fact it's back on, so I'm driving around with a fan belt that has done over 140,000 miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110 Dom Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Hi Thanks for the replys I am offshore at the moment so cant try the soapy water trick but the post has reminded me that my friend tried something similar just before I went offshore. He squirted WD40 on the belt which presumably is similar to the soapy water test? The WD40 did not stop or reduce or make worse the squeel?? As I mentioned earlier the belt is extremely tight if you try and flex it between 2 pulleys and looks in excellent shape? Not sure what to look for re the possible exhaust problem or not sure what to try next. Is it worth trying a new belt even though the existing one looks good, could it be the tensioner if the belt seems tight? Could it be a bearing problem on one of the units its driving, is there a most likely culprit? Any hints or tips on what to try next? I am mechanically minded, just havent dived into the TD5 much as it has been OK until now! Thanks Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Hi I have a 2004 D2 TD5 that has recently developed a squeel. On idle the squeel is not there but when you rev up it starts. Sounds very much like the exhaust manifold on its' way out. My wifes' DII showed the same symptons a couple of months ago, which was diagnosed as two sheared manifold studs. Exhaust gasses were forced through the gap under power making a squealing, whistling noise. The two studs were drilled out and the holes helicoiled, before the manifold was refitted. Unfortunately in our case, it failed again more spectacularly about six weeks later when the exhaust manifold warped so much that two more studs sheared. The lack of pressure to the turbo meant it was virtually undrivable. A (very expensive) new manifold and some more helicoils later and all is well again. The moral of this story is don't leave it too long to fix, as it won't get better and could get much worse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Mine is the tensioner bearing...I could get it to stop for a bit with spray oil.... It's common and there are new bearings available on ebay starting at a couple of quid upwards...I paid a bit more and got a decent quality one.... It's not fitted after 3 months....I like listening to it more than the carp on the radio... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannytd5 Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Mine squeaks too it does my head in I've tryed new belt cleaned all the pulleys new tensioner removed fan and the squeak is still there my next idea were spray the belt with wd40 that stops it for a few days till it's back again so I've kinda learnt to live with it and put it down to it being a landrover don't we just love them lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110 Dom Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Wow it was exhaust gases leaking from the manifold. I would have bet a lot of money on a belt slipping issue as it just sounded so much like a slipping belt. I noticed the squeal did not occur from cold but only took maybe a minute before it would squeal when revved indicating a heat relation. I looked at the manifold very carefully whilst someone upped the revs.....low and behold at the same time the squeal starts a tiny puff of smoke can be seen coming from the top of the exhaust manifold!! I am away again so won't be able to check out further for a few days but I would like to ponder over the options to prepare for investigation. I am guessing that if I am lucky maybe a bolt just needs tightening, maybe a bolt has sheared, maybe the manifold is faulty or something else??? Does anyone have any tips on what may be needed to solve the problem after I try and investigate further. Could this be a time consuming and costly fix or maybe otherwise?? Thanks Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 I am guessing that if I am lucky maybe a bolt just needs tightening Pretty unlikely, I'm afraid. maybe a bolt has sheared Possibly more than one. It was two on ours the first time, which needed the holes to be helicoiled. maybe the manifold is faulty Could be that too if you're unlucky. In our case, after the first repair two more studs sheared at the other end because the manifold had warped so much. That required more helicoiling and a new manifold. Does anyone have any tips on what may be needed to solve the problem after I try and investigate further. Could this be a time consuming and costly fix or maybe otherwise?? As I said earlier, repair it sooner rather than later to try and avoid more expensive damage. A new exhaust manifold is well over £300, plus the cost of helicoiling and labour if you're paying somebody else to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynall Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 When mine first went i managed to nip the two rear bolts and this stopped it for a couple of weeks then it cam back, stripped it down, manifold warped, and studs pulled out. The studs are only 8mm straight into the alloy head, so cure is get a spare manifold get it machined flat, remove old manifold helicoil damaged studs fit new manifold. What i also did was drill all the holes out to 10mm bar one on each end to allow for movement i also use exhaust manifold nuts from a renault diesel which had built in free spinning washers so also allowed movement, never had any more problems. Plus i cut all the webs out from between the manifold ports. You can see the amount of warp from the pic L;ynall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynall Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Another pic if you look at this pic and your engine you will see the missing webbing and the special renault nuts. Bloke on e bay wants 385.00 for a modified manifold! which i will bet has just had the webbing cut out http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-TD5-MODIFIED-Exhaust-Manifold-and-Gaskets-/280614666949?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4155f002c5#ht_2106wt_990 Lynall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
africanpete Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I can vouch for Lynalls manifold mod as mentioned above, how do I know? The said manifold has been on my car for about 4 years, no problems since... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynall Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I can vouch for Lynalls manifold mod as mentioned above, how do I know? The said manifold has been on my car for about 4 years, no problems since... Hi Pete hows it going? are still on the DOC forum? i keep toyinhg with another disco but wife wants a defender and i fancy a bit of a heap so when i inevitably bend it, it wont be the end of the world, but a defender is same price as disco only difference is disco is 7 to 10 years newer! I was just replying to another post and was trying to think who told me the info i was passing on and i thought of you, not sure if it was you but you get the idea? Glad the manifold done the job, im still using that large alloy box now its in the back of a 1959 series 2 Im sitting here grinning like an idiot! Lynall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmscroft Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hi, Had same issue a few years ago. lifted of engine cover as per advice on this forum to find studs had sheared on clyinders 1&5, bit fiddly but took my time and got studs out, there is a new type of stud from wurth. manifold was warped by 2.5mm each end. Had it skimmed and put back together. I didn't cut webs as not aware at the time, but manifold has been over engineered and unable to flex. All been ok for past 4 years. It took about 11/2 days in total incl. machining. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110 Dom Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 Thanks for all your comments. When I eventually got home and had time to order the parts and have a go it ended up being a bit of a pain! There were two snapped studs in the end port nearest to the radiator. The bottom one came out ok by drilling and using an easy out extractor but the top one was my worst nightmare for a while....the easy out snapped off inside the sheared stud!! So not only did I have a snapped stud which was sub flush with nothing to grip but I now also had a piece of hardened metal snapped in the stud!! I purchased a new Dremel which I have wanted for a while anyway and used a steel fine point burr and started carefully nibbling away at the stud material around the snapped easy out. After about 2 hrs I had removed enough material such that the broken easy out came out. I then drilled out the stud slightly bigger and tapped M8 helicoil size and fitted a helicoil insert. It was the top stud that caused the problem and looking into the block through the removed water pipe you could see there was not much metal to play with. If the new hole had of wandered a little it could have easily broken through into the water jacket making the problem a whole lot worse. Fortunately it did not break through which was a relief. I got the manifold skimmed as it was a little warped and re fitted it along with longer studs and spacers from JE. I did not grind the webs as I thought the new studs and spacers should be fine. I have been running it for about a week now and everything seems good. I would have replied earlier but have been busy fitting a new fuel pressure regulator as the old one had a leak. That was another pain of a job to do. The access was a bit tight so made it really fiddly but got there in the end.. also fitted an EGR bypass kit. Next job is to replace a broken driving lamp glass so I'm off to post a wanted request! Many Thanks Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inaine Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 umm i got a spare manifold....might get it de webbed and skimmed just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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