Jump to content

Timing pin dont fit under???


Recommended Posts

Hi. Im trying to adjust my engine so that the crank shaft and pistons are align and runs fine together.

Ive got a setting that runs, but with a lot of smoke, and hard starts. So I need to get it 100% right.

To do this I've got two timing pins, lrt-12-158 and lrt12-058. But it won't fit.

Ok, first the 058 goes in at top, but its not very exact. I can move the engine some millimeters in each direction with it in. Its that the way it should be?

And the 158 pin that is screwed in from below in the gearbox bell house does not fit, because the hole is not centers to the hole in the bell house, its to far backwards... I would need to screw the pin in slightly sideways to actually reach the hole.. And how are you supposed to know with hole to use? Its one whole every few centimeters in the disk/crankshaft?

Im so confused and quite Mildly miffed off for the moment, But any help is greatly appreciated. I don't know if the marks on the chain is correct.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, Ive solved it. its not supposed to go in to the holes, but in to the slice instead. Works like a charm. I had missed the slice in the ball house wheel when I rotated the engine, so I thought it was supposed to fit in one of the many holes. But now I know better. So the chain is perfectly aligned according to the pins. But I'm still getting heavy white smoke from the exhaust, it starts fine thou.

Can this be due to a missing bolt in the Exhaust Manifold. I happened to pull one off earlier and it is leaking a bit of air there...

Thanks for the relies so far. And yes its a td5.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hm, i think it is white smoke, but maybe it will decrese later on. Ill give it some more testing once i have replaced the missing exhaust mainfold bolts. Thou It sems like the mainfold is slightly wrapped, ruffly 1-2 mm. Is that something i should do anything about?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can have the manifold machined flat - in the same way as a cylinder head - but when mine warped, enough to break a couple of studs, I was able to refit it without any machining. Take an angle grinder or a hack-saw and cut each of the four 'webs' between the five branches of the manifold straight down such that each branch of the manifold can move separately when the manifold heats up and expands - be careful not to cut into the actual manifold part or you will get a leak! Use a new gasket and refit the manifold carefully and it should be OK. Well, mine was!

HTH

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy