HELP - P38 (1999) FALSE ignition key in

[GSDMAN999]

Hi Guys

My car is a 1999 2.5 DSE

The problem is:-

Though ignition key removed - warning message and sounds indicate that 'ignition key left in'

Upon exiting the warning gives audible sound to acknowledge same. I am unable to lock doors with the remote key and have to lock doors using key manually. When locked audible sounds.

To unlock doors the remote key works fine. Upon opening drivers door, audible sounds and message states 'ignition key in'. Car starts and stops without any problems.

Red light flashes as long as tab is pressed on key fob, both lock/unlock. Vehicle alarm set red flashing light operates when vehicle locked.

I have tried fixes: Checking the lock barrel freely works: Manually setting sync codes to key with battery disconnected and connected: Checking correct movement of all door locks WD40 etc:

Please any further ideas gratefully appreciated

[Escape]

The problem isn't in the door locks or remote, it's normal for the remote locking not to work with a key in the ignition.

The ingnition barrel is not registering that the key is removed, you can try greasing it (recommended to use graphite and not WD40) to loosen it again.

[GSDMAN999]

Thanks Escape

Regarding the greasing of the ignition - do you mean to actually insert grease into the key hole itself??

Thanks for advice

[sean f]

The ignition barrel has a switch in it that detects the key, it is not uncommon for this switch to stick in the down position and indicate the key is in when in fact it isn't.

A bit of WD40 or even better graphite oil squirted down the key hole and then working the key in and out a few times often sorts the problem.

If you look at the barrel as you insert the key you should see it go in a mm or so as the key is inserted and then come back out as the key is removed, when mine was stuck a bit of WD40 and then dragging the key on the side a bit when it was part way out got it moving and then just working it a few times till it frees up easily.

Graphite oil is normally prefered as it leaves a graphite residue behind that lasts longer than the WD40 which eventually evaporates but in the short term it doesn't make to much difference.

[Rick Sears]

My 1999 Range Rover P - 38 Ignition stays on without the Key in the ignition & the radio still has power & the repaired key fob with new battery does not work??? 

At first the window's also had power with the door & the ignition in the off position. I just replaced the battery which now I think was good??? I am not happy!!!.

[elbekko]

Easy thing to try, that I usually do. After taking out the key, turn it 90 degrees and give the lock barrel a good poke. It should then pop up so it's slightly proud. Anything less might be keeping systems awake.

[Aragorn]

Yeah mine does the same about half the time, just poke the barrel and it pops out.

Not entirely sure ricks issue is the same though, ignition shouldnt stay on even if the barrel is stuck.

[Escape]

Depending on the setting in the BeCM, the windows will still have power for 30 sec or so after removing the key.

As for the radio, that could be wired the wrong way. If the key is turned to off, everything should be off, regardless if the key is in the barrel or not.

For the keyfob, did you synchronise it after the rebuild? Synchronising is by turning the key in the driver's door while pushing the button.
Was the fob rebuild by somebody who knows what he's doing, or just a generic fob repair? If the latter, little chance of ever getting it to work, the internals are unlike most fobs. If it was a specialist, he should be happy to provide assistance to get it working.