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Bleeding brake problem


disco_al

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help! having now got the right pad fitting kit, made new lines, checked for fluid leaks etc i cannot get the front brakes to bleed.

have tried both methods, pipe in bottle of fluid, and the good old push pedal, open nipple, close nipple etc...and neither method has worked.

basically we have done;

changed calipers for vented defender 110 items

new rigid lines from flexi to caliper

now, just before i did a basil fawlty and beat seven shades out if it with the nearest tree branch, i noticed bubbles rising in the master cylinder.

it's my 97 300tdi with abs

need to get it sorted by tomorrow night, other half needs her bike back for work icon_smile.gif

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Could be master cylinder seals. It's quite common for brake cylinders to suck in air without leaking any fluid until the seals wear more and then lose fluid. It's quite unusual for calipers to leak, but not unheard of. I would expect a drained system to put bubbles into the reservoir, in much the same way as the clutch does, but this is indicative of the system eventually working. Pop the dust cap off the master and look for a small amount of fluid in there.

Les.

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according to the previous owner, it's had a new m/cyl fitted (and from the look of it and the really clean fluid that's in there, i don't have reason to not believe him)

system hasn't been drained, just the front calipers and rigid lines replaced. going to try an eezi bleed kit tonight, see if that helps

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Not being funny but you did put the new calipers on the right way up with the bleed nipple on the top etc....

also there is a right way to bleed the rovers with abs have a search on here for the procedure.

Last time i did a range rover with abs it was a real pain and it took hours to get a good pedal.

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My trick to difficult-brake-bleeding issues is as follows:

Pump the pedal like crazy until it goes hard.

Wedge it down with a piece of wood between the pedal and the seat-box.

Leave overnight.

Then repeat the bleeding-process.

How it works: The solubility of air in brake-fluid increases significantly when it is under pressure. Wedging the pedal down and leaving it for a while under pressure means any trapped airbubbles will diffuse and dissolve into the brake-fluid.

Then you bleed-out the aerated brake-fluid the next day.

Trust me - it works!

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Old reservoirs must weaken with age. I blew a LTWT one wide open on 12psi

that was my suspicion too. previous owner said he'd had a new one fitted, but i don't think the reservoir was replaced - it split round the plastic welded seam. makes me wonder if it was a britpart m/cyl :(

i may end up changing the whole thing for peace of mind - will see what turns up from BM today.

Have booked Friday off to finish the job - going to change the rear pads/calipers/discs & bearings as well and bleed the whole system to be sure. (they were on the cards anyway)

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