moose

If you have the locker with a the quill tube then a 24 spline half shaft will work just fine.. OEM, kam, ashcroft etc... No they will lock without the shafts in. Have you taken the axle apart to see exactly what's broken? as it is possible to shear the quill tube which would result in what you describe.

Where did you go for help? 2009 was when they just brought out a new design of locker the one with locking dog sliding on a separate quill tube. The older locker to this needs extra long splines on the half shaft as the locking dog moved on this. so which locker do you have? I am guess its the one that needs the "custom" shaft if you have been told people cant help you, but that can also depend on who you spoke to Paul

Count me in Simon I would be interested as well. Paul

I don't want to make assumptions about how you use your own truck but I would say you will be fine to leave as is... here are my experiences on this topic... the original chromed balls bend and the replacement Teflon's shatter. I would (and have used for years) the Teflon replacements on a road/playday/green lane car. But I really try and stick to the original chrome for my comp truck As its a difference between this:- Teflon and chrome Only cure is difference axles.....

I had this discussion with some one the other day... In almost all cases in land rover aftermarket suspension world a +5 shock will not give you 5" more travel over standard, what it means is the open (fully extended) shock length is 5" more than a standard open shock. Now and here is the rub because its extended length is now bigger so also will its closed length. So for example a Terrafirma pin to pin +5 shock is 5" longer than standard when extended but as the shock body is now larger the travel is only 2" more over a standard shock so in real terms its an 11" travel shock. Paul

I do a lot of towing of my comp truck across europe etc... and having a good trailer is a must, driving non-stop for 30 hours with 3 tonne on the back you just don't need to the stress of checking the mirrors for tyres failing every 30sec. I use 2 trailers depending on what i am doing both are Brian James the one i own is a 3T with the wheels on the out side of the deck, this great trailer the low cog mean it tows a dream (zero wagging) behind my disco even when in the massive lorry ruts of the M4, but as has been mentioned by some one else because its low it really suffers from ground clearance. I have towed my truck to Romanian on this trailer and on some of roads the ground clearance was a problem. Also due to the lower weight limit of this trailer i don't load it up with lots of spares (like wheels) either. The other trailer I use/borrow is a 3.5T Brian James beaver tail with deck over the wheels because to of the extra space we will load it right up usually with gen set on the front and 5 spare wheel under the truck. It tows fine behind the disco (but not as good as the low deck one) and tows better behind the van with the longer wheelbase. . The other thing to remember is the tyres and wheels, proper trailer tyres are at really high pressures (I run both trailers at 75psi) if they are not run at the correct pressures they get to hot and blow... so if buying second hand make sure some one has not put car tyres and wheels on the trailer your looking at. hope this helps...

Defiantly this ^ I did run the old scrap iron arms and they worked fine for years on my green lane disco and then comp truck but as speed on my comp truck got faster I found they bent far to easily. I now run the Terrafirma arms and found then to be much stronger but every thing has a limit.... here is the result of clipping a tree at 30mph.... snapped the caplier, broke the front swivel, bent the radius arm, cracked and pushed the center backwards on the chassis mount. Personally I do think these arms are strong enough for my intended use abuse.

There was no Every Man Challenge at KOG its only running at KOV this year (plus have you been to Scotland, Croatia feels closer ) Why not have a show or "festival" that is like a big play day weekend like they do in the south of France, I can remember the name of it now but it looks fun. The traders are all there too but they are not the only reason to go to the event..... I guess location is the restriction for this sort of thing in the UK

I recon there might be some buggies this year that could just about drive it or some of it...

You could change the drag link to a disco one and bin the swan neck thing but this will mean you need a disco drop arm on the steering box. Sorry not got a close up image to hand but you can just about see the idea

Not to much too change on the truck as quite a few of the breakages were from me driving into stuff and I cant really do any thing about that..... Just thought i would round this thread off with our overview/highlights edit of racing action. The almost head on crash is not because anyone was lost. The road book did warn of 'two way traffic' but only for the guys coming the other way!!

Sorry Didn't see this reply, Well a quick summary of my event.... Being my second year I thought that it would be easier but in the end this year we ended up in 19th place compared to our 11th place year before. First problem was that we bent the truck so badly last year that it need a ton of work to get where i wanted it for this year and time ran out on us. I just finished the truck by 5pm to only just make the 11pm ferry. So no testing time on the truck... which as i now know was a big mistake. The engine was very down on power it had had a new injector pump, injectors and we tried every thing we could think of to get the power back, I should have packed the old pump but didn't. Since getting back the problem was track down to the wrong banjo bolt being fitted to the back of the pump. More gutting is we had the correct bolt with us and 1min job and it would have been back to full power.... First road book day out due to the truck sitting over winter I had a sticky solenoid on my over boost 12-24v system so it was not pushing 24volts at the winches only 12 (I only have single motor winches) and on the first tough winch bit I stalled out the front which. I didn't know at the time but I had melted a brush and it was only just still connected. We sorted the over volt system but the next problem which finished our first day was the water depth. This year the rivers and swamps were very deep due to the rain, quite often winching through bonnet depth water was required. Having a 200tdi I am still on V belts and they don't work so well under the water. Only 3K (ish) from the end of a 50k road book both alternator V belts had melted away and the spares were back at camp.... (for the rest of the week we carried spares) Next day was trophy day which was fine no problems (apart from the constant lack of power) and that evening its was the night stage. The organizer at the briefing asked the teams if they really wanted to go out as the weather was that bad. In my class at least half didn't go we did and it was sketchy the tracks were incredibly slippery and more than once we had to winch just to get back on the tack after we had slid off it. But it was the big winch climb of the night where the motor damage became apparent by it stopping half way up a good 400ft hill under tension. we managed to recover our selves getting back to camp at 4am (started at 11pm). Sunday was circuit day which we missed to strip the front winch plus it would have been hard work with no power. Only road book days left and we could make up lost places on these. Monday was the big road book day a 70k one. Starting 29th off the line we were going good up to 7th or 8th on the road and only 1k from the end when the engine just stopped. checking round the truck its was soon clear what the problem was. A tree branch had ripped off the fuel tank outlet and we were now out of diesel. We got the support guys to come out and get us, lucky we were some where accessible by road going 4x4. Back at camp we also found we had collapsed a front bottom swivel bearing and a potential show stopper which was a broken front winch end plate, I had not packed a spare..... We fixed every thing that night apart from the winch when at breakfast Philon said he had spare 3+ wide drum winch and why didn't we borrow that. So Tuesday was spent fitting and making it work with one motor as we had destroyed our spare and the motors on it were 24volt. Wednesday road was fine but tough deep water, long swamps and in some places I was having to double line the winch even using 24volt (which i don't normal have to do) But 5 km from the end of the road book I clipped a tree with the drivers side front wheel. The impact was enough spin the truck 180, snap the bottom swivel pin and shear open the caliper. Managed to complete the next 5k with no brakes and the front wheel half off. We started 30th off the line crossed the line 11th place. Adie (one of my support guys) that night amazingly managed to make a new complete swivel out of bits from round camp using an angry grinder as a machine tool. The Thursday was last day of the comp and it went ok, only having 3 brakes made things a bit more tricky but we finished..... We got to 19th out of 33 by completing only 2 days. Living conditions were very tough this year, by the last day people were having to winch just to get their comp trucks across camp. how we didn't get trench foot I don't know Lots of images on our Facebook page... and some new video of the event very soon... Paul

"Health n Safety" has not made it to the wilds of Croatia..... I have footage from the prologue where a truck runs wide hits a stake holding the tape up which then really twats a spectator on the head... We are some times running as fast as we can on public roads (ok not busy ones) that are not closed, at least once or twice I have come head on with a car, van and this year an arctic truck who have no idea they are on part of a race course... all part of the fun... bit like in the baja but more mud than desert....

Now that's very likely. Nothing is straight or true on my truck any more... Last time I sheared all the bolts the half shaft let go at the same time.

wow you must have bicycle width wheels/tyres to be able to rub the end of your drive members on stuff... Yes the newer (proper coated) KAM drive flanges are a very close fit i have to beat them on. My weak point now is the flange bolts (even running 12.9's) easily shear all 5 (new ones) in one go

South Wales,Walters Arena also called 7 Sisters...

Assuming that your bypass shocks are setup with 2 compression tubes one rebound and that you have equal or less bump to drop travel, then you could easily get away with out using bumps on the front. Just a small mechanical bump (bit of rubber) so there is never any chance of metal on metal is all that you need. Make sure to set the shocks up to act as a nice progressive bump... Not hard to do with the kit your running. You set the bump stop height same as you do for the shocks and coilovers at full compression. After all these bumps are just a shock absorber. If your bumps are/were limiting axle travel then they are to long.... This why I think is pointless running 4" travel bump stops on a landrover chassis truck there is too little bump (up) travel you end up riding on the bump stops the whole time... The bumps are also there to protect the shocks so they should bottom out a fraction before the shocks.

whats the width of the chassis? can you mount them through the chassis? Why 2 shocks and not one good (tunable) shock plus bump per side... or are you running C/O's and (maybe bypass) shocks? How much bump travel do you have and what stroke bumps? Images of the set up will defiantly help I used to have my rear bumps mounted on the inside of the chassis rail and this worked for me. The general rule of thumb tho is to the have them as far outboard as possible so that the axle does not end up pivoting round them. Paul

Thought i would update this thread for any one following... The rules have been tweaked slightly... So I will be able to use bolt in side/door bars in the cab... also for people interested in the EMC (every man challenge) this might help too.... might get another season out of the old tractor yet before work starts on an IFS unobtainium tubed buggy

I have no problems with the tube specs all the tube on my truck is cds any way. I also don't have a problem with making it as safe as possible, On both years that KOV has been running that has been some big roll overs not just flops. I was surprised at the new side bar rule and I wrongly assumed that having a car that met all the (MSA) cage regs last year would mean I would be fine for this year. Its easy enough for guys with space frames like Mike to adapted but not quite as easy when you have an exo cage, but i will ask some questions and see what I can do to meet this rule. I did really want to do the EMC "every man challenge" as I might have had a small chance at being competitive in this class but really don't know why they put in the rule about the radiator being in the front.... Not sure if this rule came from the states where they have no mud? Its mega frustrating I have always had the radiator in the front but last year was my breaking point, as there was a pool of bonnet depth mud on the lap and after each dip we have to pull over and empty litres of water over the rad to try and clear it enough to get some cooling. So i have spent some money got a new radiator which I am about to install in the back... I also think its a little short sighted as I reckon there would have been quite a few uk challenge spec trucks that might have entered. Under the EMC rules I can have coil overs and and triple bypass shocks per corner (as long as attached to the axle) but i can't have a radiator in the back..... So is the EMC class really there to open up the event to a wider audience less pro more budget.... Not trying to have a go I understand that there will always be some thing in rules that competitors don't like and it is impossible for an organizer to please every one. Paul

Yeah seen the MAS regs I dont have a space frame its still chassis with exo cage bolted to it The side protection I am planing will be like this... And like the above bolt through the bulkheads to join the exo cage not sure if this will keep the ultra4 guys happy or not i will have to ask the question

waiting to see what happens and what other people do with this as I am sure that i could argue that my rock slider (which are part of the chassis) would count as side protection (which is what i made them for). But they are made from 7mm wall box, not from roll cage csd tube (too weak) and the sliders are tied into the chassis by the (strengthened) out riggers. Now the front cage hoop does meet the slider but the rear hoop is connected to the top of the chassis cross member like almost all landrover truck cab roll cages. I will carry on and make my planed cage changes and if it stands up to scrutineering then great....

Wow... I have issue with some of that.. I was putting in some side bars but they will not be permanently welded to the A and B hoop as I have two bulkheads in the way... Even in the every man challenge regs i have a problem.. I have just started moving my rad to the back behind that cab... So looks like thats my "Ultra 4" days over, shame it was quite good fun

I hope that "Ultra4 Europe" can put it all together and give us regulation that we can actually ahead too, regs suited to offroad racing. The MSA are so out dated... they have no idea what we (as a sport) do and from what I see they don't care... Anyway sorry for diluting the thread, post up some more photos of the build Iwould like to see the extended radius arms

Lenient is probably the wrong word, more like different. (In my view) the MSA regs were made some time ago and most of the regs are a little daft for this type of discipline.. were are not the only type of motorsport that feel this way in fact we (the offroaders) had/have it easy compared to some of the guys I know that run track events...